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Old 05-10-2006, 04:34 PM   #6481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Whichever way you look at it the end is near.
Maybe, but the car is still the best out there so why worry. I won't switch until there is a better car.
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Old 05-10-2006, 04:38 PM   #6482
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Originally Posted by jag
Maybe, but the car is still the best out there so why worry. I won't switch until there is a better car.
Neither will I. But I was going to buy a spare car, I might hold off for the Evo instead of an additional WCE still don't know.
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Old 05-10-2006, 04:42 PM   #6483
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Originally Posted by jag
Maybe, but the car is still the best out there so why worry. I won't switch until there is a better car.
I'll have to agree with you. Another thing is racers always want to upgrade even if they haven't extracted the full potential of the current car in stock form, that's just the nature of this hobby, everyone wants the latest greatest and upgrades. To me, don't care much about all these options/upgrades, at the end of the day, you still have to drive it first. Why not spend more time on setup and practice instead of finding every possible options/upgrades out there. Of course, certain optional parts are essential. My $.02.

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Old 05-10-2006, 05:08 PM   #6484
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Default hmmm

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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I'm just joking around.

If Kyosho has truly stopped producing the WCE, then either the EVO is faster than it looks (doubt it) or Kyosho is coming out with a new car to take on the MTX-4 and the 710 replacement, which is due out this summer.
the 3R is able to keep up with any car given the right driver
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:21 PM   #6485
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Default 3R

ill keep my 3r WCE till i become good enough to tell the difference between the 2 or if i do good at the nats
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:42 PM   #6486
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I'll have to agree with you. Another thing is racers always want to upgrade even if they haven't extracted the full potential of the current car in stock form, that's just the nature of this hobby, everyone wants the latest greatest and upgrades. To me, don't care much about all these options/upgrades, at the end of the day, you still have to drive it first. Why not spend more time on setup and practice instead of finding every possible options/upgrades out there. Of course, certain optional parts are essential. My $.02.

Dom
I always say that the three most important things are engine tuning, setup and driving. If you got money and a shopping list ( ), then it's a no brainer to pick up the upgrades.

IMO (Well, I am very biased about this, so take this with a pretty big grain of salt ), the Ultimate Edition and Ultimate X are the fastest and most durable RRRs that you can own. A few people in here are already driving it around or are very close to it. Theorhetically, if you race a UE/X, upgraded MTX-4 and upgraded 710, using the same engine, tuned pipe, fuel and tires on all cars, given drivers of relatively equal skill or the same driver, the UE/X should come out ahead.

I hear what you're saying, but I will take every advantage I can get from the start. If I bolt on all the upgrades and it helps me consistently improves my lap times by just 2 seconds (given that the engine is tuned properly, the car is setup right and it helps me stay on the fast racing line without crashing), then I have a very good chance of TQ and winning the A Main for my class. Simple as that. Well, maybe not that simple, but I think you know what I mean.

If you were to race your closest rival at your local track, you with your RRR as it is now and him with a UE/X, would you think that it would be a fair race or would he have the advantage?
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 05-10-2006 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:05 PM   #6487
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ive seen numerous newbies that buy that latest car and when they don't go that well they just keep throwing money at it. I think everyone should work there way up by starting off with a rtr and then once they reach the full potential of that car then get a better car and start to upgrade as your skill level increases.
Theres no point in buying the latest and greatest gear if you can't keep it on the track!
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Old 05-10-2006, 08:03 PM   #6488
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What does hopups do to a car... More tunablility? Yes. More durable? Maybe. Faster? Maybe, maybe not. Hopups that will make your car accerlerate faster is lightened drivetrain/clutch, lightened overall weight, even that is hard to tell. Maybe an optional rear bulkhead with vertical ballstud can enhance tunability, resulting in faster corner speed. In ultra high bite track, a stiffer chassis will have an advantage. You get the picture. However, the drawback about aluminum part is everytime you replace a plastic part with an aluminum part, you car gets heavier.

As far as durability of aluminum hopup goes, as a racer I push the envelope on speed and try to achieve lower laptime with each lap. With that, you take risk, you go into corner harder, you brake later, you run tighter. To do that, you will make some error and crash the car, that is part of pushing the envelope, testing the boundries and going fast. To me, if I have to spend $30 to buy 2 hopups, the car crashes, it bends, I'll have to spend $30 again to buy a 2nd round of hopups, vs I can spend $10 on a tree of plastic parts and can replace sevral broken parts. It might not be exact figures, but you get the idea. My bag is packed with replacement parts, 2 of everything. I don't think I would want to afford spare hopup parts, it'll get expensive very quickly.

The optional items on my car is alu middle bearing block because the bearings sit a lot further than the stock block to distribute torque more evenly. Optional rear bulkhead because I want to have one more set of screws to mount my rear tower on for durability, plus the tunability of 3 camber positions and vertical ballstuds capability. Ti layshaft and tight bevel shaft for light weight. Optional steel first gear pinions for durability. VSW007 cause we all know what it does. I'm not running other hopups, unless you count all the tuning aids.... sway, gears, pinions and springs. And I don't think my car will not be as competitive as your Ultimate/X version. If I lose to a U/X version RRR, it's not because of my car lack of hopups, it's because of driver, motor, setup, or just plain old bad day at the track. I hate to have a new guy comes on a forum and think hopups will make a car faster. I used to be Treasurer, VP of a club, we even hosted Nats a couple years back. I see new guys getting into hobbies all the time, the one thing I always tell them is don't get sucked into hopups, learn to go fast in a stock car first. When you become fast and when you know you have exhausted the potential of a stock chassis, then look at hopups that give you more tunability.

It's cool that you dedicate a website for RRR info, adding a section about different setups would be a cool thing to have, just so guys could see how everyone is running their car. I understand you feel the hopups you've chosen will give an advantage, that's cool. And I feel my car is fully capable, not be able to qualify in A or B at a national recognized event would be down to my driving, setup, or motor, not because my car lack of hopups.

Sorry for the long post.

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Old 05-10-2006, 08:26 PM   #6489
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Dom: Agree with all your points and really appreciate your thoughts on all the areas you touched upon. Thanks
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Old 05-10-2006, 08:50 PM   #6490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
Theres no point in buying the latest and greatest gear if you can't keep it on the track!
I'll be the first to admit I don't know what I am doing 70% of the time. But if I enjoy it at $400 every six months to a year for a new kit, and you like it for $150 a year for wear items, why does it matter? I'm having just as much fun as you. You might get a complaint from me about cost when I'm frustrated, but that's it. No matter if you buy the latest and greatest...if you race the hobby is going to be expensive.

Entry Fee: $15-$20 average (x2 for two Sundays out of the month)
Gallon of fuel per month: $30 (30%)
Tires: $40-$60 depending if you practice and brand of tire

If you race for six months the minimum cost is $600, that's without wrecking, no glow plug, nothing... Never going to happen. Just in case, I would tack on 25% for wear items. Bam $750. Year round racing (Florida/Georgia boys) = $1500. These are minimum figures. What's another $400? My concern is having FUN, then finishing a race. The field drops 50% guaranteed by the middle of the race and there's usually one or two guys left at the end of the race - I hope to be one.
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Old 05-10-2006, 09:03 PM   #6491
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Default hmmm

always remember what the goal is to be 1st & have fun or just mess around if you want to be the man you better make a list because there are a lot of good drivers with years of experience our job is to test,tune & race to win at all times at least thats the goal dont always happen oops i mean has never happened
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:01 PM   #6492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
The Evo will replace the RRR and then the WCE will slowly disappear. Everytime Kyosho comes out with a new car it's predecessor is obsolete. The RRR has been out almost two years (WCE 1.5yrs) and Kyosho replaces their cars every two years. The WCE will be phased out by 2007 guaranteed.

We are at the end of its production. That doesn't mean anything bad, just technology at its best. Plus we don't have any detail of the Evo. It looks the same but 30% of its parts could be different. The RR to RR Evo was a big difference, probably 35-50% a new car. Proof right here: http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products...version-e.html

Whichever way you look at it the end is near.
I have the RRR EVO in my hand at the RCX show it is not a better car than the RRR they phased out the standard RRR version and the EVO is the direct replacement of the cheaper version , and at this point Kyosho will just keep on developing the RRR WCE, just like the EVOLVA now there is a 2006 WCE EVOLVA , Kyosho now have the mentality of saying IF it ain't broke why fix it just keep on making it better trust me THE RRR WCE WILL STAY FOR A WHILE
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:26 PM   #6493
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Performula and Soloartist both hit a very good point about this sport is to have fun. There are guys that like spending lots of money, then there are trying to spend the least. Either way, whether having fun requires TQ'ing/winning or finishing dead last, doesn't matter anymore. I used to not understand what's fun about it when you struggle to keep up, but it took me good couple of years to realize that.

RMD: My post was in no intention to put your thoughts and your work on the Ultimate/X car down at all. You've done some real good research and for anyone that is getting started on RRR or stuck on an issue, your website is an excellent resource! I consider you an RRR enthusiast, that alone is way cool in my book already! Unless you switch over to Mugen or Serpent!

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Old 05-11-2006, 01:47 AM   #6494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
THE RRR WCE WILL STAY FOR A WHILE
i hope so!!
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Old 05-11-2006, 01:48 AM   #6495
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
The advantage of this part is it's a lot easier to change the upper link length and you now have one more hole as an option. Although you can change the height of the inner link to change roll center it's kinda redundant since there are the spacers between the link and hub carrier already there for that. When you change the length of the upper link you change the amount of camber gain during compression. The longer the link the less camber gain.
Redarding VZW207-02 - Old post but i believe this will resolve my problem on rear upper link rubbing the rear body post that mounted inward ( Because type of bodyshell used). But hey..! Any other alternative or simple modification tip that anybody here want to share? Bundyman where are you give us comment man.. How the parts performance VZW207-02 ?
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