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Old 05-09-2006, 09:04 AM   #6451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
ive read the article aboutgetting 200mm wide rear end on the wce with zero offset wheels.
I have a heap of 0 offset wheels so i just wanted to know what you guys have found to be the best option to get the 200mm trackwidth ?

thanks
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I am going to use the 007 universals with the 2mm shims. I should have this setup installed for my next race. I have been using up all of my 2mm offset wheels before I switch over.
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:27 AM   #6452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
Where did you get the body. I tried HK and JP with no luck.
I ordered it directly off of the PARMA/PSE Shopatron Web Site: PARMA/PSE

I paid retail and shipping was $8.29 US, but it was here in 3 business days.
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:05 AM   #6453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
I noticed that the MTX4 has 0.8M spurs gear and they also have 61t and 60t. Will they fit on the RRR they seem to look more tougher esp those hop up kevlar ones.
Do you know if these spur gears work on our car? If so I will definatly be buying some, I'm getting around 30-40 minutes of run time out of my current 2nd gears....
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:52 AM   #6454
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I would like to figure out my issue with 2nd gear also (different car). BTW, nice racing with you barger.
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:45 PM   #6455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
ive read the article aboutgetting 200mm wide rear end on the wce with zero offset wheels.
I have a heap of 0 offset wheels so i just wanted to know what you guys have found to be the best option to get the 200mm trackwidth ?

thanks
JOHN
Use the VSW007 rear universals which will compensate for the 2mm
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Old 05-09-2006, 06:33 PM   #6456
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Default best place to buy rrr wce ?

heys guys i wanted to buy a rrr wce before the evo comes out


where will be the best place ?
Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2006, 06:38 PM   #6457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougday
Use the VSW007 rear universals which will compensate for the 2mm
ok so it will have the same setup as the rrr then ?
Ill just set it up the same as my current rrr with dogbones
they never fall out of the rear anywa. I just hate having dogbones in the front - too many bad experiences haha
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Old 05-09-2006, 07:40 PM   #6458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Performula, I did the same thing that Jag did. Worked out fine. If your cone washer is too long in the rear of the fly wheel (sticking out a little in the back) you can also grind it down a few tenths. You can also go to your LHS and compare other makes of cones. I think I'm using Kfactory or RB, can't really remember. But theirs other ones that will do the trick without having to mod parts.
The second method I tried, but no luck. I started with the front of the cone washer, realizing it was the way the flywheel 'sat". So I took a few tenths off the front and rear. After inspection the washer was angle by a tenth or two so I stopped. I used your first method with the reamer with better results. Since the cone washer would be left alone I figured the flywheel would center once installed on the crankshaft with the clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I had the same problem with my flywheel. It didn't slide onto the cone far enough to get any adjustment/shimming on the clutch. I used a body reamer to enlarge the hole in the flywheel and now it fits fine. I know that is probably not the proper way to do it but it worked. You will need to use pliers to get the preload nut tight (1.2mm). It doesn't matter where the flywheel is mounted because that nut tightens onto the nut that hold the flywheel on.
This method worked the best. A little skeptical using my reamer on aluminum, but this worked great. Almost looks machined. The collar and the flywheel angle don't match for sure.
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:14 PM   #6459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adl
had the same problem-i opted to use serpent gasket and retainer and no more problem a little bit more difficult to install ihad to remove cap from tank and i made the middle part of the clip bigger by using a reamer. if this is too hard for you to do i seen other guys just use 2 kyosho gaskets. hope this helps--good luck

Thanks for the info, any part numbers for the gasket and clip?
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:29 PM   #6460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
ok so it will have the same setup as the rrr then ?
Ill just set it up the same as my current rrr with dogbones
they never fall out of the rear anywa. I just hate having dogbones in the front - too many bad experiences haha
so you got the 3r not wce like me. have you had any problems with getting the rear under 200mm?

ive installed all the electronics now (what a pain in the a$$ that was!) and il post some pics of where i mounted the direct plug in for the battery.
Has anyone tried the small clutch spring FMW16? iv'e got mine wound in 2.5mm and it sounds really snappy

rmd: i adjusted the rear to 4.2 front pillow ball and 4.5 rear pillow ball and the rear is now at 200mm exactly. It just wierd that theres only one thread left on the rear pillow balls when it is at this setting i guess if the book says to do it then it must be ok.

carkillaii: thanks for your help the gears mesh fine now with the screw done up, perhaps your tip should be added to the database?
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:48 PM   #6461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenderfoot57
Thanks for the info, any part numbers for the gasket and clip?
Q: Anyone know the part number for the fuel tank gaskets (fuel lid o-ring)? I think mine may be leaking.

A (drfritz): The yokomo gaskets works as well, ZE-116F is the number for the tank, might be able to swing a deal at the local hobbie store, not a big rush for nitro yokomo cars these days,or you can try this Sponge Packing - 92050-01

A (AndyT): The Kyosho part number for the fuel tank lid gasket is: 92050-01 Sponge Packing (for fuel tank). This pack also comes with spare clips for the gasket.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

I don't suggest you buy it from them, but this is a picture of 92050-01:

http://www.korearcmall.co.kr/shop/sh...e=055003000025
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:51 PM   #6462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
rmd: i adjusted the rear to 4.2 front pillow ball and 4.5 rear pillow ball and the rear is now at 200mm exactly. It just wierd that theres only one thread left on the rear pillow balls when it is at this setting i guess if the book says to do it then it must be ok.
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:54 AM   #6463
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guess have to miss my local race this Sunday...

my pulleys sets only will arrive end of this month ....

PLUS my VZW214 chassie
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:13 AM   #6464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Q: Anyone know the part number for the fuel tank gaskets (fuel lid o-ring)? I think mine may be leaking.

A (drfritz): The yokomo gaskets works as well, ZE-116F is the number for the tank, might be able to swing a deal at the local hobbie store, not a big rush for nitro yokomo cars these days,or you can try this Sponge Packing - 92050-01

A (AndyT): The Kyosho part number for the fuel tank lid gasket is: 92050-01 Sponge Packing (for fuel tank). This pack also comes with spare clips for the gasket.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

I don't suggest you buy it from them, but this is a picture of 92050-01:

http://www.korearcmall.co.kr/shop/sh...e=055003000025
Are you sure about 92050-01? I thought the gasket was white? I may be wrong... as I have not been wrong yet today.

I thought I heard that the tanks now purchased seperately will come with the new lid/seal. I know when I purchased a tank a few months ago it came with the old lid.
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:38 AM   #6465
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Just an FYI - kit no. 31258 (WCE) has finished production. This is coming from Japan.

Last edited by performula; 05-10-2006 at 09:57 AM.
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