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Old 05-08-2006, 09:38 AM   #6421
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Originally Posted by performula
Has any tried the Evolva rear shocks on the car?
yeah....the blue colour spring from Evolva 2003

front using rear silver spring from RRR

but not the Shocks
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:44 AM   #6422
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Just so I feel better...has anyone marred their shock bodies before? Live and learn.

I noticed that my engine did not need the washer for the flywheel collar; however, the flywheel is nearly 1.5-2mm gap off of the engine bearing. The endplay has movement but I'm not using any shims. I was also not able to get the 1.2mm thread exposure from the clutch spring retainer - maybe .8mm. This has to be from the flywheel being raised a tad.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:19 PM   #6423
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Yeah they give you more droop. They seem more responsive

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Old 05-08-2006, 12:26 PM   #6424
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Originally Posted by performula
Just so I feel better...has anyone marred their shock bodies before? Live and learn.

I noticed that my engine did not need the washer for the flywheel collar; however, the flywheel is nearly 1.5-2mm gap off of the engine bearing. The endplay has movement but I'm not using any shims. I was also not able to get the 1.2mm thread exposure from the clutch spring retainer - maybe .8mm. This has to be from the flywheel being raised a tad.

I had the same problem with my flywheel. It didn't slide onto the cone far enough to get any adjustment/shimming on the clutch. I used a body reamer to enlarge the hole in the flywheel and now it fits fine. I know that is probably not the proper way to do it but it worked. You will need to use pliers to get the preload nut tight (1.2mm). It doesn't matter where the flywheel is mounted because that nut tightens onto the nut that hold the flywheel on.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:31 PM   #6425
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I'm a little confused here, so please bare with me. Don't you want the front to be 200mm? Why are you screwing in the pivot balls to 198mm? Don't you want to screw them out to 200mm?

Running 198 in the front is great for low-traction tracks. Running it narrow lets the car turn better in better and carry more corner speed. Cyrul ran his really narrow in Brazil. Run a lower rear toe and catch even more corner speed. But it will be more aggressive and might be a handfull to drive.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:33 PM   #6426
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Must be my lucky day.


Yes, I am using the standard pinions. Maybe something got lodged in between the gears and just ate them up. A few of the 2nd gear teeth are nicked (see attached picture) and quite a number of the 1st gear teeth have smaller nicks (not shown in picture, it's mostly the other side).

I didn't realize that my gears were stripped - just that my car wasn't moving. I tried revving the engine a few times, but nothing was happening. I heard an engine with a high-pitched whine, but didn't realize it was mine until the race directory said, "Rainer, that's not going to help you." Someone pulled the car off of the track and stopped the engine for me.

I have notice when the pinions get that worn they tend to strip the spurs quite easily....What I do when i dont want to spend the extra loot on pinions and Im trying to get by with the ones currently on the car........is check the mesh once the mesh loosens up because the pinions got some wear just try to re-mesh them and it mght save a couple of runs...unless you have the loot to change them once they have some wear...
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:37 PM   #6427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
I noticed that my engine did not need the washer for the flywheel collar; however, the flywheel is nearly 1.5-2mm gap off of the engine bearing. The endplay has movement but I'm not using any shims. I was also not able to get the 1.2mm thread exposure from the clutch spring retainer - maybe .8mm. This has to be from the flywheel being raised a tad.
Performula, I did the same thing that Jag did. Worked out fine. If your cone washer is too long in the rear of the fly wheel (sticking out a little in the back) you can also grind it down a few tenths. You can also go to your LHS and compare other makes of cones. I think I'm using Kfactory or RB, can't really remember. But theirs other ones that will do the trick without having to mod parts.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:37 PM   #6428
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Originally Posted by jag
I hear you. I had a similar weekend. Out of a possible 30 minutes of racing I competed in just 5 of them. My problem was engine related. I missed all 3 qualifiers trying to tune an engine that would not tune. So I put in an engine I knew ran well just in time for the main and 5 minutes in I was doing fine until I tangled with another car and then my car would not run. I could not figure out what happened until Robert made me try another pipe and it ran perfectly.

As for your misfortune, if you hit the rail that could cause the strip either from flexing the chassis, a sudden stop of the tires or gears or shifting the engine.

Better luck next time.

Hey Jimmy I got your pipe.......by the way my receiver took a dump...thursday night....
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:46 PM   #6429
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Originally Posted by robert maestrey
Hey Jimmy I got your pipe.......by the way my receiver took a dump...thursday night....

A new pipe?

To bad you don't use Futaba... I have a few extras.
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Old 05-08-2006, 02:18 PM   #6430
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A new pipe?

To bad you don't use Futaba... I have a few extras.

No its used ... .....runs real nice youll love it.
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Old 05-08-2006, 02:38 PM   #6431
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Originally Posted by robert maestrey
I have notice when the pinions get that worn they tend to strip the spurs quite easily....What I do when i dont want to spend the extra loot on pinions and Im trying to get by with the ones currently on the car........is check the mesh once the mesh loosens up because the pinions got some wear just try to re-mesh them and it mght save a couple of runs...unless you have the loot to change them once they have some wear...
Thanks for the tip Rob. I'll add it to the Web site when I get a chance.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:15 PM   #6432
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Default Question About the WCE

I am looking at getting a new touring car, but I have a lot of tires still that are all 0 offset front and rear. Could these still be used on the WCE version and if so what problems will it cause ?

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:23 PM   #6433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
I have notice when the pinions get that worn they tend to strip the spurs quite easily....What I do when i dont want to spend the extra loot on pinions and Im trying to get by with the ones currently on the car........is check the mesh once the mesh loosens up because the pinions got some wear just try to re-mesh them and it mght save a couple of runs...unless you have the loot to change them once they have some wear...
I noticed that the MTX4 has 0.8M spurs gear and they also have 61t and 60t. Will they fit on the RRR they seem to look more tougher esp those hop up kevlar ones.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:24 PM   #6434
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Originally Posted by fastrcracer
I am looking at getting a new touring car, but I have a lot of tires still that are all 0 offset front and rear. Could these still be used on the WCE version and if so what problems will it cause ?

Thanks
This post may be helpful:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...28#post2286128
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:24 PM   #6435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
I have notice when the pinions get that worn they tend to strip the spurs quite easily....What I do when i dont want to spend the extra loot on pinions and Im trying to get by with the ones currently on the car........is check the mesh once the mesh loosens up because the pinions got some wear just try to re-mesh them and it mght save a couple of runs...unless you have the loot to change them once they have some wear...
I changed to the Hardened pinions and they will not sharpen to a point like the standard ones. Once you get the hardened one's you will never go back to standard. I was replacing spurs atleast every 2-3 meetings if not sooner, now I have used the same spurs for 6 meeting so far and they as good as new.
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