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Old 05-04-2006, 01:36 PM   #6331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
I find them better than the New Arrows which I used to use.


So how are they better Mark?

I'm still looking for +2mm offset wheels. I'll probably have to get them from Japan. Next step is to find out who provides the kit tires.
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Old 05-04-2006, 01:50 PM   #6332
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They provide more grip at the rear of the car, I find and they also wear well. I switched between Ellegi, New Arrows and Enneti during my last test and certainly Enneti tyres provided the best balance.

I'm quite happy using +0 Offset wheels with the 3Racing wheel hexes. Ordering tyres from Japan sounds expensive.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:20 PM   #6333
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It's not too expensive and neither is shipping. My RRR parts were about 50% cheaper than that of my LHS.
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:21 PM   #6334
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Will a softer shore tire help with rear traction???
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:33 PM   #6335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


So how are they better Mark?

I'm still looking for +2mm offset wheels. I'll probably have to get them from Japan. Next step is to find out who provides the kit tires.
The tires that come with the kit are called "Red Box" and they are Kyosho tires. I have compared them to Jaco's and I feel the Jaco's provide more traction in the rear. I like the look of the Red Box but the Jaco foam is the best I have found.
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:35 PM   #6336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
The tires that come with the kit are called "Red Box" and they are Kyosho tires. I have compared them to Jaco's and I feel the Jaco's provide more traction in the rear. I like the look of the Red Box but the Jaco foam is the best I have found.
Where are you getting them from? Your LHS?
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Old 05-04-2006, 03:57 PM   #6337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
Right-on Robert I'm a cheap-skate by nature

I was out of action for quite a while due to chicken-pox, but I'm over it now.

Had my first race of the year last weekend. It was both good and bad. I need to learn to setup my RRR a little better, but this is just a matter of learning.
Saturday was wet and in qualifying I spun out into the grass when my car went into snap-oversteer as I lifted off the throttle - this left me in P4, but without the mistake I would have been P2 three seconds down on Il Diablo (Christoph Pietsch).
Sunday was dry and without any free practice it was into the second qualifying session (two runs). The track was still a bit damp in the first session, so no times would count to the final order. In the second, the track was dry and seemed to have good traction. I had to go with a hit-and-hope setup. Right at the start of the my run, I spun out again at exactly the same point on the circuit for exactly the same reason as on Saturday - snap-oversteer
After that I drove as hard and fast as I could and was able to qualify in P7, it would have been P4 without the spin - but that's racing.

In the races here, the fastest four from qualifying go directly into the main final. Being P7, I had to start in the A Semi-Final from P2. The car was a little difficult to drive at first with the large tyres, but after 5 minutes, I was flying.
At 9 mins 30 my engine cut out - somehow I had run out of fuel!!! My pit guy grabbed my stranded car and got it back to the pits, but upon restarting the car, the first gear spur stripped It just wasn't my day!!!

I was dissapointed not to have got into the main final, but the car had shown its speed - I was much closer to where the action was as I was last year. I love this car

This weekend, I'm testing a couple of setup changes, to see if I can eliminate the snap-oversteer off-throttle.
Nice shot Mark! I had that snap-oversteer problem last year. If running on low-traction, try 50-100K diff (silver springs) in front and 5-10K (black springs/blk sway) in the rear with 37s all around. If traction builds up, go one-way with 20K or less in rear and 42s/40s(or 37s) combo. The snap usually comes from not enough diff action in the back.

You can also try another .5mm-1mm shims under the front upper arms. Just some suggestions.
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:56 PM   #6338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Will a softer shore tire help with rear traction???
Traction is dependent on a number of factors, including tire shore. If you're having specific handling problems, there are a number of things to try, but they are dependent on how your car is setup at the time, track layout, track conditions and how you drive. By changing your tire shore, you may negatively change the way the car handles, which means you will have to make some setup changes to offset your shore change. In some cases, changing tire shore is just a crutch to address a bad setup – which means your car will not be performing optimally anyway.

Just my 2 cents…
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Old 05-04-2006, 09:35 PM   #6339
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air filter treatment:
i just wash the filter out with normal unleaded petrol and then spray it with denatured alcohol and then gently blow it dry with an air compressor but i leave it for a day before i use it again. After a few cleans i throw it out and if the base comes loose i re-glue it.
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Old 05-04-2006, 09:55 PM   #6340
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does anyone know what tyre offset to use with the vzw010 and original 3r not the wce???
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Old 05-04-2006, 11:52 PM   #6341
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For those of you with the VZW207-02 (shock stay holder), have you adjusted the link position at all? What type of results have you gotten from changing the position?

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho v-one rrr-kyosho_vzw207.jpg  
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Old 05-05-2006, 12:23 AM   #6342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
Thanks I always keep my paint job simple, as I hate to paint bodyshells Orange is this years colour
nice shots !
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Old 05-05-2006, 01:47 AM   #6343
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Pictures of VZW207 mounted on a car, courtesy of jeffreylin (previous post):

Photo1, Photo2, Photo3

Team Kamizake answered the performance question in the Team Kamikaze thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
The advantage of this part is that you can adjust the rear roll center through the inner link by raising the height where it is bolted down.
Thanks!
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 05-05-2006, 02:05 AM   #6344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
For those of you with the VZW207-02 (shock stay holder), have you adjusted the link position at all? What type of results have you gotten from changing the position?

Thanks!
The advantage of this part is it's a lot easier to change the upper link length and you now have one more hole as an option. Although you can change the height of the inner link to change roll center it's kinda redundant since there are the spacers between the link and hub carrier already there for that. When you change the length of the upper link you change the amount of camber gain during compression. The longer the link the less camber gain.
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Old 05-05-2006, 02:09 AM   #6345
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jeffreylin- Take some more pictures of your car for us on the internet. Some nice full car shots!

Jeffrey taught me something interesting about the car a while back. When you feel that the car is not as free as before the first thing to look at are the bearings in the hub especially the outside 6x12. Fresh bearings make a huge difference in the freeness of the drivetrain.
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