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Old 11-17-2004, 01:48 PM   #616
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I've just spent two hours getting the arms to drop properly - it is possible to do it with a 3.0mm drill bit.

1. Pass the drill bit through the anti-roll bar holder, where the hinge pin goes through, until the hinge pin goes through without binding.

2. Pass the drill through part 26 with it mounted in the anti-roll bar holder. This is because once it is attached with the screw, it pulls the whole holder slightly out of alignment. By enlargening this hole slightly this can be avoided.

3. Pass the drill through the arm itself until the arm drops under its own weight when the hinge pin is passed through it.

4. When the suspension arm is mounted into the suspension block (number 19) you will notice that the hinge pin binds when you pass it all the way through to the rear of the block. Passing the drill through this end will free up any last bit of binding.

After doing these steps, you suspension arm should fall under its own weight.

Cheers, Mark.
Hmmm ... we hope to hear about all this in the build article at 3hobby.com of course.
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:49 PM   #617
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Hmmm ... we hope to hear about all this in the build article at 3hobby.com of course.
Of course, Sow, of course me old son!
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:42 PM   #618
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Just attached the upper arms - no problems binding here, just the opposite, really - there is too much slop, i.e. front-to-back movement of the arm on the hinge pin. I put the two clips (27) on, but it looks as though I need a third or forth still.

Have I done something wrong?
Nope, just add another caster clip. That's what I had to do.
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:45 PM   #619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Hmmm ... we hope to hear about all this in the build article at 3hobby.com of course.
I'd really like to hear your comments on how it compares to your 710, too.
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:50 PM   #620
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I'd really like to hear your comments on how it compares to your 710, too.
Well, that's the idea. Mark is building the RRR now and will compare build as well as driving/handling with the 710. He plans to write an article or two about it for 3hobby.com.

He just did this for the XRay T1 and the Tamiya TRF 415.

Originally I planned to do the 710-RRR comparison too but now I may as well wait for Mark. In the meantime I can use that cash for some 3-port engines. So far I've only raced outlaw with 5-ports. Next year, the national series are going full EFRA so I need to get at least 2 new engines, 2 new pipes, fuel and some new EFRA approved touring shells.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:05 PM   #621
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Oh, Good - look forward to the comparo.

Speaking of rules, when is EFRA going to get with the programme? I'm thinking of the different 3 port engine specs, really.
Since IFMAR finally decided 200mm touring cars were a good idea, ROAR and FEMCA seem to be doing a reasonable job of keeping their rules updated and aligned, but EFRA . . . . .
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:11 PM   #622
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EFRA
Every Failed Rule Applied
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:33 PM   #623
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Oh, Good - look forward to the comparo.

Speaking of rules, when is EFRA going to get with the programme? I'm thinking of the different 3 port engine specs, really.
Since IFMAR finally decided 200mm touring cars were a good idea, ROAR and FEMCA seem to be doing a reasonable job of keeping their rules updated and aligned, but EFRA . . . . .
Ah, you have a good point there ... EFRA just finished their AGM and it seems that for 200mm IC, nothing much changed in terms of engines.

Well ... you know ... the EC/EU preceeds everything.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:34 PM   #624
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Quote:
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EFRA
Every Failed Rule Applied
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:13 PM   #625
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Does anyone happen to know how much lighter the Hollow middle shaft is compared to the stock one? I don't have a scale. How does that saying go: 1 ounce of rotating mass is equal to 4 ounces of unsprung mass?
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:26 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Ah, you have a good point there ... EFRA just finished their AGM and it seems that for 200mm IC, nothing much changed in terms of engines.

Well ... you know ... the EC/EU preceeds everything.
Crazy, ain't it.
Given that FEMCA is one of the IFMAR bloc's I would have thought it incumbent on them to fall in line with the international body they represent. The whole point being that a european driver can go to, say, Brazil for the worlds, and run the same gear as he does at home.
In Oz, we only have a few variations from the IFMAR rules, like a larger permitted cooling hole for the warmer weather.

Oh well . . . it looks like it's esier to get national currencies aligned than engine specs for piddly toy car racing.
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:59 PM   #627
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Thanks racing4evo. What rear toe are you running out of curiosity? Also where did you get the hollow middle shaft is that kfactory? I have seen the ti and hollow shafts for the evos and rr but not the new rrr. Maybe my store is just slow on those parts.



Thanks!
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:33 PM   #628
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The middle shaft for the RR evo will fit the RRR, they are exactly the same size.
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:46 PM   #629
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Default Fuel tubing length?

I was finishing up my build on the car and wanted to know what lengths you guys are running for your fuel tubing, both to the engine and from the pipe? What are the affects of running a longer one compared to a shorter one? I was just about to copy the manual and keep the fuel tube to the motor short and the pipe tube long, but after seeing Atsushi Hara's car ~>

I see that he has both fuel lines long. Any body know why? Will this allow the engine to hold its tune better perhaps?
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Old 11-17-2004, 05:56 PM   #630
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Extra long fuel line is used when the tank is under capacity, you will probably find that the Kyosho tank will be 75cc with minimal fuel line.
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