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Old 04-30-2006, 08:42 PM   #6241
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I have a question for everyone, has anyone tried to download the set-ups from the Kyosho web page? I tried the English and Japanese translations. Funny how the Japanese has several team sheets. All I get is a blank page.??
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:08 PM   #6242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
If you need a new deck than I think the 3Racing version would be cheaper. But if you are only changing it because of the revised tank mounting than wouldn't you be better to make the existing hole longer.
which holes do i need to modify with a dremel?
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:12 PM   #6243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
The popular chassis replacement is the Kyosho Shimo version, part #VZW214. It's 7075 Aluminum, gunmetallic finish and the battery cover is non-removable (i.e. there is no battery cover). Robert Maestrey and a few other people said they really liked it. I'm going to get it as well.

Picture: http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=7284
wouldnt it be a pain if you wanted to change batteries?
i used to own a g4 and every time i wanted to access the battery (probably not very often) it was a pain to take the radio tray off.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:16 PM   #6244
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BE CAREFUL!

When following the front up/down stop screw setting they are too large of settings. I went through each step as instructed, correct measurements, etc. When bolting the front bulkhead in place I noticed the arms didn't move at all. After inspection I noticed the grub screws were preventing movement.

Also you have to be careful when threading the front knuckles. No matter what I did they would cross thread, so I 'Tee'd' the pivot ball fasteners, by squaring them off. Flash marks inside the knuckles maybe? They were very tough to install.

The Hexes are hard to place too. When installing these I found that putting the O-Ring on first, pinching the O-ring up, then wedging the pin inside worked the best.

I have never had so much 'threading/tapping' issues, maybe just one of those days., I don't know. So far I only have the front end on the chassis. Speaking of...has anyone's chassis been tweaked from the box? My chassis is bowed a teeny tiny bit.
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:20 PM   #6245
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One last thing and I think my question was skipped.

For a little driveline weight savings I left out two screws to the one-way's gear. Might not be a great idea, but it seemed flush/flat on the spool. The front end is remarkable when it comes to the front differential access.

The rear diff...I let it sit for a few hours to see if it would leak and it did. About an hour ago I rebuilt it and hopefully I mated the housing together better. Tomoorw morning I might have a post on how to cure this lol.

Has anyone used the Mugen MTX-3 flywheel?
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Old 05-01-2006, 12:19 AM   #6246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsquish
I have a question for everyone, has anyone tried to download the set-ups from the Kyosho web page? I tried the English and Japanese translations. Funny how the Japanese has several team sheets. All I get is a blank page.??
What version of Acrobat Reader are you using? Maybe you just need the latest version. If that doesn't work, you might want to try the Asian font pack. Does your computer display the Japanese characters?

Adobe Reader 7.0.7 full installer - multiple languages
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloa...atform=Windows

If you don't have the latest version, I strongly suggest you should get it. Earlier version have security vulnerabilities that could potentially allow malicous code to take over your computer.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:43 AM   #6247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
wouldnt it be a pain if you wanted to change batteries?
i used to own a g4 and every time i wanted to access the battery (probably not very often) it was a pain to take the radio tray off.
Yeah, that's the first thought that came to my mind. I swap out batteries between the qualifiers and Mains to ensure that I have more than enough juice. Once you start running this chassis, you have to start worrying about charging the batteries in your pit, cleaning up fueling accidents and probably some other things that I haven't even thought of yet. I looked at the chassis tonight and removing the battery from the middle belt side is not an option.

Anybody got the K-Factory chassis?
http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...00-K1912-1.jpg

There is one at my LHS just waiting for me to buy it.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:52 AM   #6248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Anybody got the K-Factory chassis?
http://kfactoryracing.com/INS/K%20Fa...00-K1912-1.jpg

There is one at my LHS just waiting for me to buy it.
wow..one nice looking chassis, very nice!. I wonder how it's going to take the impact specially around the carbon fiber area. Hopefully they sell the carbon part itself in case someone crack it.
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Old 05-01-2006, 03:19 AM   #6249
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BTW - The K Factory chassis isn't really designed for quick battery changes either. Just look at where the rear holes are for the battery cover. It makes it easier to change the battery of course, but I wouldn't want to be fussing with those particular screws all the time.
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:07 AM   #6250
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how you guys change chassic? by just unscrewing all bottom screw ? any faster way to change chassic ??
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:59 AM   #6251
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i know kyosho3pkracer uses a kfactory chassis and he hasnt had any problems with it so far
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Old 05-01-2006, 06:29 AM   #6252
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Easiest way is just unscrew all the bottom screws off and take the chassis off and put the new one on, i like to line up the screws how they come out so its shaped like a chassis and i know what goes where when i put them back in and don't get them mixed up.

With the K-Factory chassis, so far it's working really well, just been in a big event here and checked for any tweaks in it after and it is still dead straight.

It does say the chassis is unscratchable though, which i don't know if it is exactly true, it is scratched but when you run your finger over the scratch it's still nice and smooth as if it hasn't been.

So i'm guessing thats what it means.
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:09 AM   #6253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
One last thing and I think my question was skipped.

For a little driveline weight savings I left out two screws to the one-way's gear. Might not be a great idea, but it seemed flush/flat on the spool. The front end is remarkable when it comes to the front differential access.

The rear diff...I let it sit for a few hours to see if it would leak and it did. About an hour ago I rebuilt it and hopefully I mated the housing together better. Tomoorw morning I might have a post on how to cure this lol.

Has anyone used the Mugen MTX-3 flywheel?
I would not recommend leaving any screws out of the one-way gear. Those screws are very small and not very strong. I don't thing the weight savings is worth the risk... just my opinion.

I have not tried a Mugen flywheel.
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:12 AM   #6254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyosho3PKRacer
Easiest way is just unscrew all the bottom screws off and take the chassis off and put the new one on, i like to line up the screws how they come out so its shaped like a chassis and i know what goes where when i put them back in and don't get them mixed up.
I do the same thing except I do 1/2 the car at a time. I take the chassis brace at the engine off and use that area as my break point.
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Old 05-01-2006, 08:27 AM   #6255
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so is it that the chassie should be flat straight from the head to the end ? Or is it the end should be slightly upward ?
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