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Old 04-24-2006, 01:16 PM   #6151
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
I'm not certain, but it seems to be just a difference in color. The names for them are the same with color as the only noticeable change. Maybe, someone here knows for sure?
I tried both. They are the same. The difference is just color
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Old 04-24-2006, 02:03 PM   #6152
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I used Permatex RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to seal my rear diff and it hasn't leaked since. The only thing is, you have to be neat about it.
Where can I purchase it from? Or, maybe I can just go to a hardware store to look for it!!
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Old 04-24-2006, 02:25 PM   #6153
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Where can I purchase it from? Or, maybe I can just go to a hardware store to look for it!!
Auto parts, K-Mart, Wall-Mart, etc.. I can't remember if I'm using the "Blue RTV" (older formula) or the "Ultra Blue" (newer formula). Either one should be fine, but if you can wait another 8 hours, I can tell you exactly which one.
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Old 04-24-2006, 04:50 PM   #6154
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Originally Posted by psbarger
Hey guys,

I just ran my WCE car for the first time at Cinci yesterday and had a blast except for the fact that I stripped 2 second gear spur gears. Both of them lasted approximately 20-30 minutes run time before shaving themselves smooth. The gear mesh was set correctly as far as I can tell, and I didn't have a problem at all with 1st gear. Any ideas on what could have caused this?
Make sure there is not to much play on the shaft if so it may be binding up near the fly wheel & causing it to hit the gears as it is shifting & wears down the spurs faster
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Old 04-24-2006, 05:11 PM   #6155
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Originally Posted by 710baby
Make sure there is not to much play on the shaft if so it may be binding up near the fly wheel & causing it to hit the gears as it is shifting & wears down the spurs faster
Are you talking about the crankshaft or the layshaft?
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:49 PM   #6156
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Originally Posted by performula
Are you talking about the crankshaft or the layshaft?
Layshaft if the spacing on the crankshaft has 2 much kiss the conrod goodbye
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:59 PM   #6157
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Auto parts, K-Mart, Wall-Mart, etc.. I can't remember if I'm using the "Blue RTV" (older formula) or the "Ultra Blue" (newer formula). Either one should be fine, but if you can wait another 8 hours, I can tell you exactly which one.
My advise is to get the o'ring. I tried that stuff. I guess I wasn't very neat.
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:17 PM   #6158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 710baby
Layshaft if the spacing on the crankshaft has 2 much kiss the conrod goodbye
I'm still lost. Oh well.
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:51 PM   #6159
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Auto parts, K-Mart, Wall-Mart, etc.. I can't remember if I'm using the "Blue RTV" (older formula) or the "Ultra Blue" (newer formula). Either one should be fine, but if you can wait another 8 hours, I can tell you exactly which one.
Aight...
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:17 PM   #6160
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Forgot to mention I picked one up - WCE (Friday or Monday). Also got a few spares, minus the rear shock tower and 1st gear aluminum pinion. Hopefully, the stock gearing will be OK on my track. Are there any tips or is any fabrication needed for the building process? I hope I made the right choice...if not I'll take that percentage hit off eBay.
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:44 PM   #6161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Aight...
It's the Blue RTV
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:09 PM   #6162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Forgot to mention I picked one up - WCE (Friday or Monday). Also got a few spares, minus the rear shock tower and 1st gear aluminum pinion. Hopefully, the stock gearing will be OK on my track. Are there any tips or is any fabrication needed for the building process? I hope I made the right choice...if not I'll take that percentage hit off eBay.
Letís seeÖ

1. The biggest pain in the butt is modifying the servo horn. Maybe someone can give you some advice here. You don't want to do it the way I did it.
2. When you spin the clutch bell facing up or facing down, it should spin for at least 5 seconds (per 710 FAQ ) BTW Ė The instructions say nothing about end play. Glenn Cauley recommends, ď. You want to have only a very small amount of endplay; just a barely noticeable hint of movement (0.10mm) is good, but don't remove ALL endplay or the clutch will drag.Ē
3. The fuel hose used for the brake is too short in step 38, in my opinion. Try 20mm.
4. Watch which ends you put which ball caps on in steps 8
5. Watch which end you mount the camber link in step 18. (i.e. the adjustment rod needs to face a certain way).
6. The slop in the top suspension arms can be adjusted by using a 3mm washer. You donít have to remove all of it, 1-2mm is okay, but itís debatable.
7. Donít over tighten the shock caps (i.e. steps 11, 27 part #129).
8. Belt tension should be loose for front and rear.
9. You have to bend the muffler stay in step 46 yourself.

Help me out guys. What have I missed?

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 04-24-2006 at 11:41 PM.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:35 AM   #6163
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Some more things to remember while building the car!
1. File out the lower chassis a bit so you can slide off the clutch bell without having to remove the engine.
2. File the hole in the radio plate above the steering servo horn so you can more easily remove the servo horn with a flat tool ie. a screw driver.
3. Filing once more! Make the hole where you pass the cables for the receiver through longer, this makes it a lot easier installing the radio gear.

Besides that RMD said everything else.
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:15 AM   #6164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
Some more things to remember while building the car!
1. File out the lower chassis a bit so you can slide off the clutch bell without having to remove the engine.
2. File the hole in the radio plate above the steering servo horn so you can more easily remove the servo horn with a flat tool ie. a screw driver.
3. Filing once more! Make the hole where you pass the cables for the receiver through longer, this makes it a lot easier installing the radio gear.

Besides that RMD said everything else.
Thank you guys... finishing idea.
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Old 04-25-2006, 06:26 AM   #6165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Letís seeÖ

1. The biggest pain in the butt is modifying the servo horn. Maybe someone can give you some advice here. You don't want to do it the way I did it.
3. The fuel hose used for the brake is too short in step 38, in my opinion. Try 20mm.
6. The slop in the top suspension arms can be adjusted by using a 3mm washer. You donít have to remove all of it, 1-2mm is okay, but itís debatable.


Help me out guys. What have I missed?
1. I used an aluminum servo horn (Futaba) and I didn't have to do anything to it except to drill the hole out a little. It works very well. If you use a long horn (20mm) you may have to rotate it 1 tooth forward so it does not hit the gas tank at full throw and you may need to trim the top deck opening in the front and back of the opening. I also added a small washer inside the horn to shim it out a little further to provide more clearance between the horn and top deck.
3. I also use a return spring on the back side of the mixing arm to eliminate any brake drag.
6. I used a 2mm caster clip from my old Serpent and sanded it down until it fit perfectly and now I have no slop at all.

The thing I found most difficult is the wiring. I trimmed the steering servo mount to allow the wires for the steering servo and transponder (I don't use a switch) to run behind the receiver. If you use a very small receiver, things will fit easier.

Don't tighten the gas tank down too tight. It should move.
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