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Old 11-16-2004, 08:29 PM   #601
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thanks for the advice. in the front you can set it at soft or stiff and in the back there are three settings. what did you set it at? (i am talking about the part that the bearings go into--- outside the one way and rear diff)
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:40 PM   #602
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If the car is brand new, I would set the front and rear to loose, just so the belts break-in. Then when they start to free up, you can set them to tight to take up the slack.
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:00 PM   #603
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When setting the rear belt tension, the instructions are correct. I thought the instructions were wrong when it said to install the "L" bearing cam into the "right" bulkhead but if you don't do this, the belt tension will be too loose.
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:16 PM   #604
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
For sure racing4evo. The rrr is very lively with the kit setup. I am using a high downforce rear wing which is why i have increased the front stearing to balance for the high downforce rear wing. I am going to try a banana/lower downforce wing this weekend and see how it works. It should give a slightly higher corner and straight away speed but may make the rear end a little looser. I will probably end up laying down the shocks a bit to compensate.

Also the japanese tracks i race at have alot of very tight corners so a very responsive setup is what i am shooting for. It is a little difficult because 1 of the tracks is mostly tight while the others are mixxed hence the 11 ackeman. I settle for a little push on the very tight track so I dont have to completely reset between the tracks. For camber I basically shoot for the minimal camber while maintaining a small coned shape on the tires.

In regards to the ackerman plate I am using the suggested 11 plate and from what i understand the 10 would give more corner out steering while the 12 would give a more aggressive turn in? Is this correct?
thanks
Instead of increasing the front traction for more steering, you can try decreasing the rear toe in. This will give you a higher top speed, increased acceleration and most importantly, decreased rear tire wear which will help maintain the 2mm tire split longer.

I've only driven the car for 2 races, so I am still searching for an ideal setup, but so far the car has been for the most part easy to drive. The 2mm tire split I've noticed makes a huge difference in stability.
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:27 AM   #605
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Quote:
Originally posted by rossiRocket
I placed a 3mm washer on each of the upper front hinge pins to get rid of the slack. By the way are your rear lower arms binding on the hinge pins? ie. do they pivot freely? I'm asking because mne were tight as hell and I had to use a hammer just to get the pins to go through the arms.
Mine was binding so i drilled out all the lower arms and bulkhead twith 3.5mm drill. No slack and everything moving free.

The front arms should drop under their own weight

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Old 11-17-2004, 03:11 AM   #606
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Mine was binding so i drilled out all the lower arms and bulkhead twith 3.5mm drill. No slack and everything moving free.
3.5 mm drill? You should use 3.05 mm Kose reamers or at max I would go is 3.1 mm.
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Old 11-17-2004, 03:34 AM   #607
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doki,

got ur rrr yet? or just to busy to think abt it?
quit school while u can...
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Old 11-17-2004, 04:11 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
3.5 mm drill? You should use 3.05 mm Kose reamers or at max I would go is 3.1 mm.
I tried the 3.1mm but it was still tight. I thought the 3.5mm would be too large but it was perfect!

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Old 11-17-2004, 06:05 AM   #609
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for some reason my front arms are not dropping freely (they are binding), anyone know why?
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Old 11-17-2004, 09:41 AM   #610
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Quote:
Originally posted by joemugen
for some reason my front arms are not dropping freely (they are binding), anyone know why?
Rheumatism??

Oh the car.... Drill out the arms and bulk head with 3.5mm drill

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Old 11-17-2004, 09:44 AM   #611
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i thought you were suppose to drill the rear out. you have to drill the front out as well?
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Old 11-17-2004, 10:02 AM   #612
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
3.5 mm drill? You should use 3.05 mm Kose reamers or at max I would go is 3.1 mm.
Where can I get this reamer at?
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:06 PM   #613
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ziggy12345, you stated earlier that the front arms should drop under their own weight---- referring that you do not need to drill them out? or do you?
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:59 PM   #614
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I've just spent two hours getting the arms to drop properly - it is possible to do it with a 3.0mm drill bit.

1. Pass the drill bit through the anti-roll bar holder, where the hinge pin goes through, until the hinge pin goes through without binding.

2. Pass the drill through part 26 with it mounted in the anti-roll bar holder. This is because once it is attached with the screw, it pulls the whole holder slightly out of alignment. By enlargening this hole slightly this can be avoided.

3. Pass the drill through the arm itself until the arm drops under its own weight when the hinge pin is passed through it.

4. When the suspension arm is mounted into the suspension block (number 19) you will notice that the hinge pin binds when you pass it all the way through to the rear of the block. Passing the drill through this end will free up any last bit of binding.

After doing these steps, you suspension arm should fall under its own weight.

Cheers, Mark.

Last edited by markp27; 11-17-2004 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:43 PM   #615
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Just attached the upper arms - no problems binding here, just the opposite, really - there is too much slop, i.e. front-to-back movement of the arm on the hinge pin. I put the two clips (27) on, but it looks as though I need a third or forth still.

Have I done something wrong?
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