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Old 04-21-2006, 06:03 AM   #6076
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IF the camber link is moved to the inside hole; it will
- give a more angled suspension geometry
- give a HIGHER roll center
- the car will roll LESS
- car is more responsive, good for quick direction changes
- reduce grip indirectly, can be used to solve traction-roll problem under high traction conditions
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Old 04-21-2006, 06:15 AM   #6077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
IF the camber link is moved to the inside hole; it will
- give a more angled suspension geometry
- give a HIGHER roll center
- the car will roll LESS
- car is more responsive, good for quick direction changes
- reduce grip indirectly, can be used to solve traction-roll problem under high traction conditions
If, making the link longer increase the height of the outer postion. You would need to remove the spacer under the outer postion.
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:25 AM   #6078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
You would think so but in fact I have experienced the opposite. The steel pinions do not get sharp edges so they do not wear the spurs.
That is the same result I have experienced. I get very little wear on any of my gears now.
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:27 AM   #6079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
The holes are big enough for it. Just keep going until it's even with the chassis. I also use double sided tape as it comes with the chassis.
You are using the SP chassis? What is your opinion of it?
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:34 AM   #6080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
If, making the link longer increase the height of the outer postion. You would need to remove the spacer under the outer postion.
How does this work with the new alum rear mount? You can mount the link in the 3 different positions as well as using the 2mm washer. The instructions say to mount it in the hole closest to the wheel with the spacer. This makes the link short and the angle steep. What condition is this setup best for?
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:11 PM   #6081
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 04-21-2006 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:21 PM   #6082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
whats a good titanium or stainless steel screw kit to buy for a rrr ???
i know you can get one from rcscrewz
are their any others ?
Im not to impressed with the rcscewz tured them on ny past car & they really [email protected]$K I saw on rcmushroom a screw kit by East not sure if it was steel or titanium a while back or look up aps brand also they have a ceramic bearring kit for the RRR which I am still 50 50 in getting them
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:25 PM   #6083
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what's wrong with the RCscrewz?? I was thinking of getting them for my kit. Not crazy about the phillips that come with the kit.

thanks,
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:31 PM   #6084
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Originally Posted by JCB
what's wrong with the RCscrewz?? I was thinking of getting them for my kit. Not crazy about the phillips that come with the kit.

thanks,
They were stripping very easy just like aluminum 1/12th screws I got tried of dremmeling every time I stripped a screw
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:59 PM   #6085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 710baby
They were stripping very easy just like aluminum 1/12th screws I got tried of dremmeling every time I stripped a screw
What about Atomic? Anybody tried those? I think they are hex head.
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Old 04-21-2006, 03:10 PM   #6086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
IF the camber link is moved to the inside hole; it will
- give a more angled suspension geometry
- give a HIGHER roll center
- the car will roll LESS
- car is more responsive, good for quick direction changes
- reduce grip indirectly, can be used to solve traction-roll problem under high traction conditions
Hi Tommi,

This is incorrect. The steeper the angle of the top wishbone compared to the lower wishbone the lower your rollcenter is. The car will roll more (hence why you need to run anti-roll bars to control the roll movement). Ding this reduces traction under braking and increases on-power grip through the corner.

However, with 200mm things are slightly different. We dont have the same width for stability and the tire contact patch is smaller than the ideal percentage for the car size.

In normal cirmcumstances lowering the rear roll center would increase the rear grip but because of the lack of contact patch with tires on a 200mm car the total opposite works better like I previously mentioned in non traction conditions.
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Old 04-21-2006, 03:32 PM   #6087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCB
what's wrong with the RCscrewz?? I was thinking of getting them for my kit. Not crazy about the phillips that come with the kit.

thanks,
I havent had a problem with these screws as of yet...they seem to work fine for me
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Old 04-21-2006, 03:45 PM   #6088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe
Hi Tommi,

This is incorrect. The steeper the angle of the top wishbone compared to the lower wishbone the lower your rollcenter is. The car will roll more (hence why you need to run anti-roll bars to control the roll movement). Ding this reduces traction under braking and increases on-power grip through the corner.

However, with 200mm things are slightly different. We dont have the same width for stability and the tire contact patch is smaller than the ideal percentage for the car size.

In normal cirmcumstances lowering the rear roll center would increase the rear grip but because of the lack of contact patch with tires on a 200mm car the total opposite works better like I previously mentioned in non traction conditions.
i am curious to see if this would work, because this information contradicts everything that i have read on rollcenter setups
can you provide this info other than word of mouth?
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Old 04-21-2006, 04:00 PM   #6089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe
Hi Tommi,

This is incorrect. The steeper the angle of the top wishbone compared to the lower wishbone the lower your rollcenter is. The car will roll more (hence why you need to run anti-roll bars to control the roll movement). Ding this reduces traction under braking and increases on-power grip through the corner.
Lowering the inside or raising the outside of the upper link raises the roll center. One of the reasons gas cars have the outer end of the upper link so high is because of the very high center of gravity due to the rather heavy engine, a low roll center would simply cause the car to roll over. I am comparing the upper link angle to 1/10 scale electric when I mention this. One of the biggest things the upper link does is change the amount of camber gain in roll. Shorter will change the amount of gain as well.

If you really want to change roll center move the lower arm up or down, like we can do on the RRR. That way camber gain is not changed unless you want both changes.
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Old 04-21-2006, 04:36 PM   #6090
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hey guys i just bought this car for $75 bucks??? all i know is its a kyosho? and ?what model is it? and can i still get parts for it? what kind of engine is it?






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