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Old 11-16-2004, 06:42 AM   #586
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i put together my rear diff. i filled the oil up to the cross bars (just like i did for my mtx-3). but when i turn the diff, i can hear the gears turning loudly. is this ok?
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:04 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally posted by Racing4Evo
The car was good, I just needed more motor. I have to give it up to that OS though for getting me through the day. The pipe really woke up the motor, but it's still not as fast as the italian motors.
The fastest engine in that day wasn't Italian, it was Italian crancase, but Piston/Liner set was Russian and crancshaft was moddifyed. And not only there, there were 2 more engines in A-Mains with our sets-one more in Sedan and one in 1/8 scale.
Edward
Sorry actualy there was one more set in A-Main in Sedans, so totaly it was 3 sets was using in sedans a-main and 1 set in 1/8
Am I right?
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Last edited by Top Gun 777; 11-16-2004 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:27 AM   #588
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
The fastest engine in that day wasn't Italian, it was Italian crancase, but Piston/Liner set was Russian and crancshaft was moddifyed. And not only there, there were 2 more engines in A-Mains with our sets-one more in Sedan and one in 1/8 scale.
Edward

I was on 3rd place, 2 laps ahead the 4th place, untill my pitman decided to destroy my fuel tank
Thanks Edward
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Old 11-16-2004, 12:03 PM   #589
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Quote:
Originally posted by wad

I was on 3rd place, 2 laps ahead the 4th place, untill my pitman decided to destroy my fuel tank
Thanks Edward
Hey Walter, don't cry It is not last race. I got more stuff.
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Old 11-16-2004, 01:12 PM   #590
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Default Diff Oil

Joe mugen, Did you use the shims the way the instructions show you. There should only be one shim (162) behind each of the two bevel gears (160). Any more than that and the gears will bind.
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Old 11-16-2004, 03:12 PM   #591
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thanks. i did only put one shim in there. it is not a very loud noise, but i can hear a noise--- sounds a tad like binding. that is when i hold one outdrive and spin the other one. also, my front upper arms have a lot of play--- is that correct?
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Old 11-16-2004, 03:41 PM   #592
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I placed a 3mm washer on each of the upper front hinge pins to get rid of the slack. By the way are your rear lower arms binding on the hinge pins? ie. do they pivot freely? I'm asking because mne were tight as hell and I had to use a hammer just to get the pins to go through the arms.
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:08 PM   #593
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Ouch, everything went rather smooth. As far as the play on the front hinge pins, I personally don't fell there should be as much as there was so I also shimed mine.
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Old 11-16-2004, 04:47 PM   #594
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my pins were pretty easy as well to go in. did you guys put the shims in front of the upper arm or behind it? (that will probably make a difference in the caster i would imagine) also, i am using all the "A" settings. what do you guys go with. i also am using the 10 steering ackerman. i prefer the A ackerman for the MTX-3 and am hoping theser are the same. i looked at them both, they seem to be good matches. let me know what you guys are going with. thanks.
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:03 PM   #595
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Joemugen, which A setings are you using? A up or A down?

I had made some adjustments to my setup and found a heap of more traction.

New settings for those who are interested.

front
toe .5 out
camber 1.5 degrees
castor stock
Shock:
black short spring
short end
350 oil
1 hole piston
highest kyosho carbon stay hole
front one way, overdrive pulley
A up roll center bushing
stock ackerman
5mm ride height
roll bar flat
198mm width
1mm droop
tires 40 shore zac
62mm dia.

Rear
toe in 2deg
camber 2.5
shock:
black long spring
medium end
450 oil
2 hole piston
second highest kyosho carbon mounting position
20000 diff oil
B down roll bushing
black roll bar
199mm width
4mm droop
tires 40shore zac 30mm
64mm dia
5.5mm ride height

Mazda atenza s ltd body stock mounting position
rear wing 1mm under roof height.

I am really pleased with this car and these settings are letting me run 40shore tires where most guys are running 37 or even 35. The rrr is so stable lots of droop can be run without traction rolling.

Has anyone tried other ackerman plates on the rrr and if so how did it work out?

thanks.
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:04 PM   #596
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Also i would be very interested in seeing what settings others are running and how you like them.
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:02 PM   #597
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rcosmax i have never driven the rrr. i am just now putting it together. but i built it with the A down for the front and rear. i think this will give the car a lower center gravity. i hope anyhow. i will test and retest. i am bringing the car to a friend house tomorrow and we will work on it some more. i plan on using 1 droop in front and five in rear. 2 camber in front and 3.25 in rear. what steering ackerman are you using? the kit comes with 10,11 or 12. i put the 10 in--- this should give more steering coming out of turns--- i think anyhow. i do not know a whole lot about this car yet. send me an email to [email protected].
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:19 PM   #598
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The car has a lot of steering out of the box. If anything, you will probably find yourself trying to take away steering.
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:49 PM   #599
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Quote:
Originally posted by T-shirt


what happend to your 710 ?????
Still have it. After The Asia Serpent Cup in January, I will replace it with RRR.
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:54 PM   #600
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For sure racing4evo. The rrr is very lively with the kit setup. I am using a high downforce rear wing which is why i have increased the front stearing to balance for the high downforce rear wing. I am going to try a banana/lower downforce wing this weekend and see how it works. It should give a slightly higher corner and straight away speed but may make the rear end a little looser. I will probably end up laying down the shocks a bit to compensate.

Also the japanese tracks i race at have alot of very tight corners so a very responsive setup is what i am shooting for. It is a little difficult because 1 of the tracks is mostly tight while the others are mixxed hence the 11 ackeman. I settle for a little push on the very tight track so I dont have to completely reset between the tracks. For camber I basically shoot for the minimal camber while maintaining a small coned shape on the tires.

In regards to the ackerman plate I am using the suggested 11 plate and from what i understand the 10 would give more corner out steering while the 12 would give a more aggressive turn in? Is this correct?
thanks
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