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Old 04-10-2006, 02:36 AM   #5776
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
tommi: Thanks! Your experience and opinion is very much appreciated! Just like those VISA commericals: "Good advice from an experienced racer. Priceless."
Nice one !!
Of course not fogetting the rest who contribute their experience here like Jeff, Mark, Jag ...and many more here ....and of course....... CHEERS !!!!!
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Old 04-10-2006, 02:49 AM   #5777
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is there another brand i can use for 3D weight for the centax clutch for the RRR? like mugen or something?
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Old 04-10-2006, 02:53 AM   #5778
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Originally Posted by maskedrider
Nice one !!
Of course not fogetting the rest who contribute their experience here like Jeff, Mark, Jag ...and many more here ....and of course....... CHEERS !!!!!
Of course not! Everyone here has been extremely helpful! I don't think I would be where I'm at right now without everyone's help. You know that! I am always greatful when someone responds to questions or comments.
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Old 04-10-2006, 03:10 AM   #5779
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Of course not! Everyone here has been extremely helpful! I don't think I would be where I'm at right now without everyone's help. You know that! I am always greatful when someone responds to questions or comments.
you are right about it
That's the reason why our car till now, still the World Champion
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:44 AM   #5780
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
B4:

Thanks. I'll definitely keep RC Champ and HarmonyModel in mind.

With regard to the pinion gear: Thanks for the tip. That really helps. The track has good traction. Right now I'm kind of stuck to the track like glue (37 shore all around/20,000 rear diff oil/front oneway). I really have to accelerate and turn hard to get the back end to come around. I actually want to try and loosen up the back a bit by switching to rear 40/42 shore, which should wear a bit better on our track - and allow me to drift a bit. I'm not sure what affect changing the pinon gear will have on my ability to drift, but we do have a lot of turns on a rather small track - and I am looking for better bottom end acceleration to get out of those turns quicker. This is what the track looks like: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=107670. The straight remains the same, but the inside changes every time we race.
Glad your car is stuck. What I do is use the hardest shore possible and work down from there. The problem which you may not have is that if you have to much rear traction it will produce front end push (understeer). Certainly you can reduce the push by increasing front grip but it not ideal. I had a look at the track, doesn't look like it is that tight but if you can get away with a 15T pinion than good luck to you. Are you also going to use a 21T second gear. With the current gearing are you reaching top speed before the end of the straight. Have you tried changing your clutch gap to .6mm or .7mm and/or spring tension.
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:50 AM   #5781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Oops sorry...ARO = After Run Oil.

WD40.......I've heard ppl using it that commented that it leaves gel-like substance on the engine part and some said it damages the rubber O-rings of the engine. I do not know to what extent these hold true, but I would not wanna give that a try... Furthermore, the WD40 acts as a "Water Displacement" mainly, that's where the WD came from, it's good in getting rid of the moisture and hence inhibiting rust; but in the aspect of leaving a layer of protective lubricant, I doubt so that it will do a BETTER job than ARO. The WD40 tends to evaporate after a while and leave a thin film of layer, it might work OK if it's for short term (few days) storage, not sure if it's ok for longer term. My recommendation will be either the Novarossi or Tornado ARO.

Oh yes, WD40 dissolves adhesives and eases removal of bonding material, bad for the crank putty!
Pehaps this will not sit well with everyone but I use Castrol "Handy Oil" (may not be available outside Oz) in a JP that has epoxy in the crank, sewing machine oil is also very similar. I have not experienced and adverse effect yet.

The upside of using the Handy Oil is cost, I can't believe how they can charge so much for ARO.
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:58 AM   #5782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
is there another brand i can use for 3D weight for the centax clutch for the RRR? like mugen or something?
You could be radical and try the UFO clutch from KFactory not sure of the cost.
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:16 AM   #5783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
You could be radical and try the UFO clutch from KFactory not sure of the cost.
is it any good?
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:27 AM   #5784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
is it any good?
so far none of my side try on it before...
guess our stock one is good enough .
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:56 AM   #5785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
tommi: Thanks! Your experience and opinion is very much appreciated! Just like those VISA commericals: "Good advice from an experienced racer. Priceless."
I'm not an experienced racer... Being a university student, I simply couldn't quite afford the cost and time to "upgrade" myself to that "experienced racer" level as yet......Am just an ardent, and maybe - experienced hobbyist....
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:01 AM   #5786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs
hey quick question do they make a wider rear hex so i can run the same off set rim and and still make width
If you're looking for a wheel hex with 1mm offset, 3Racing makes'em - KV-008A Wheel Adaptor (+1mm Offset). I'm looking to get one myself to ease changing 2mm offset Zac tires to the 1mm offset Ellegi's, without having to change the trackwidth.
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:08 AM   #5787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
Nice one !!
Of course not fogetting the rest who contribute their experience here like Jeff, Mark, Jag ...and many more here ....and of course....... CHEERS !!!!!
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:10 AM   #5788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
Pehaps this will not sit well with everyone but I use Castrol "Handy Oil" (may not be available outside Oz) in a JP that has epoxy in the crank, sewing machine oil is also very similar. I have not experienced and adverse effect yet.

The upside of using the Handy Oil is cost, I can't believe how they can charge so much for ARO.
Couldn't agree more on the price of ARO, but hell, RC stuffs ain't cheap. I've also heard ppl using Automatic Transmission Fluid as ARO......that I gotta give it a try someday.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:46 AM   #5789
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Originally Posted by B4
Glad your car is stuck. What I do is use the hardest shore possible and work down from there. The problem which you may not have is that if you have to much rear traction it will produce front end push (understeer). Certainly you can reduce the push by increasing front grip but it not ideal. I had a look at the track, doesn't look like it is that tight but if you can get away with a 15T pinion than good luck to you. Are you also going to use a 21T second gear. With the current gearing are you reaching top speed before the end of the straight. Have you tried changing your clutch gap to .6mm or .7mm and/or spring tension.
Actually, the car is very neutral - I have neither under or oversteer. I wasn't planning on changing second gear (am I suppose to?) - and I need to adjust it so that it kicks in earlier in the straight, but I can keep up almost everyone in a flat out race from start to end (except that some guys don't brake at the end and I do). Spring is currently in the .6mm range, which I need to fuss with a bit.

Once I add the RPM telemetry to the car, I can actually determine when the clutch and 2nd gear is kicking in and adjust them accordingly.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:56 AM   #5790
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Just checked and 2nd gear on the WCE is 20T.
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