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Old 04-09-2006, 06:31 AM   #5761
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B4:

Thanks. I'll definitely keep RC Champ and HarmonyModel in mind.

With regard to the pinion gear: Thanks for the tip. That really helps. The track has good traction. Right now I'm kind of stuck to the track like glue (37 shore all around/20,000 rear diff oil/front oneway). I really have to accelerate and turn hard to get the back end to come around. I actually want to try and loosen up the back a bit by switching to rear 40/42 shore, which should wear a bit better on our track - and allow me to drift a bit. I'm not sure what affect changing the pinon gear will have on my ability to drift, but we do have a lot of turns on a rather small track - and I am looking for better bottom end acceleration to get out of those turns quicker. This is what the track looks like: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=107670. The straight remains the same, but the inside changes every time we race.
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:32 AM   #5762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Troublesome it may be, but "dun prey prey"... ....the engine SINGS if u give it extra TLC... But yea, like you said, it all depends on individual preference. When my first engine died on me last year, I was left with no preference when I got myself a new engine...

On the diff, it's play-tell for me, if it's a 30k in it but yet it does not feel like one, I'll change it. Normally I change the diff oil at least once a month, depends on how often I play, once a week in my case.
yeah.. i also using 30k in it, and often play once a week, but think i had surpass the mthly 'servicing' on the Diff. liao...haha..
For when i change is, when the 'dog bone' worn out or either the cup joint ,then i change it all together..
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:50 AM   #5763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
What's ARO? If, after run oil desolves the putty in the crank, then will WD40 work. Maybe, White Lightening or electric motor bearing oil?
Oops sorry...ARO = After Run Oil.

WD40.......I've heard ppl using it that commented that it leaves gel-like substance on the engine part and some said it damages the rubber O-rings of the engine. I do not know to what extent these hold true, but I would not wanna give that a try... Furthermore, the WD40 acts as a "Water Displacement" mainly, that's where the WD came from, it's good in getting rid of the moisture and hence inhibiting rust; but in the aspect of leaving a layer of protective lubricant, I doubt so that it will do a BETTER job than ARO. The WD40 tends to evaporate after a while and leave a thin film of layer, it might work OK if it's for short term (few days) storage, not sure if it's ok for longer term. My recommendation will be either the Novarossi or Tornado ARO.

Oh yes, WD40 dissolves adhesives and eases removal of bonding material, bad for the crank putty!
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:58 AM   #5764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
yeah.. i also using 30k in it, and often play once a week, but think i had surpass the mthly 'servicing' on the Diff. liao...haha..
For when i change is, when the 'dog bone' worn out or either the cup joint ,then i change it all together..
Wow...that should be quite looooong an interval to "wait" for the bones to get worn out no? Hmm....I reckon you'll never be servicing your diff if you're on UJs then... Dun prey prey....
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:25 AM   #5765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Wow...that should be quite looooong an interval to "wait" for the bones to get worn out no? Hmm....I reckon you'll never be servicing your diff if you're on UJs then... Dun prey prey....
That statement will be my leisure play for it.(Perhap too lazy to change it ) ,but of course, normally, after 2 race, i will change it all together

And how about Shock oil?? Currently i using 50 on it
so when will be the 'best' time to change ?
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:55 AM   #5766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
That statement will be my leisure play for it.(Perhap too lazy to change it ) ,but of course, normally, after 2 race, i will change it all together

And how about Shock oil?? Currently i using 50 on it
so when will be the 'best' time to change ?
Understood the laziness, hell if I have the time to get to the track as often, I guess I would not be servicing the car and engine that often... The shock oil, again it depends on how much time you're willing to spend on preparing the car on each outing. For the past couple of months, I've been changing shock and diff oil almost everyweek to try out the different setups on my local track. I reckon you should check whether there's any leak from your shocks, if u can hear bubbles in it while pushing the shaft in and out without the springs, DON'T BE LAZY...
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:11 AM   #5767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
A guy at my LHS recommended that I switch to the 15T gear (VZ214-15). Kit comes with 16T. Anybody got any advice to go along with this changing in gearing? Thanks!
The change to 15T is NOT totally useless in my opinion, it all depends on the track layout and the engine characteristics. I once thought that 16T is more than enough of acceleration I have, but I was proved wrong on the very track of which I was using the 16T(and thinking it is good), but different layout. I used to run 5-ports for quite a while, liking the "punch" of a 5-porter, but after making the switch to a 3-porter, the torque and acceleration is a bit weaker as compared to the 5-porters, hence I see how going a tooth down on the pinion could help the acceleration bit, of course not forgetting other aspects to look into such as the centax tuning.. My humble opinions...
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Old 04-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #5768
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tommi: Thanks! Your experience and opinion is very much appreciated! Just like those VISA commericals: "Good advice from an experienced racer. Priceless."
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Old 04-09-2006, 07:24 PM   #5769
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does anyone measure their droop by uptravel? if so what is your settings for a track (parking lot track) with not a lot of traction?
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:19 PM   #5770
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hey quick question do they make a wider rear hex so i can run the same off set rim and and still make width
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:27 PM   #5771
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Kyosho makes longer universals that allow you to run zero offset tires. I believe the part number can be found within the last 10-15 pages of this thread.

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Old 04-09-2006, 09:45 PM   #5772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs
hey quick question do they make a wider rear hex so i can run the same off set rim and and still make width
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:51 PM   #5773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs
hey quick question do they make a wider rear hex so i can run the same off set rim and and still make width
Part# VSW007

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Old 04-09-2006, 11:39 PM   #5774
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:00 AM   #5775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Does anybody know of a U.S. Web site that carries the entire V1RRR WCE product line?

The only non-US store I found that carries the entire WCE line is rcsquare.com out of Hong Kong. If you've had any experience with this company, please let me know.

Thanks!
try rc-toro.com. They have some v1rrr parts, and some 3racing parts.
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