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Old 04-08-2006, 09:30 PM   #5746
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this is what i do...run the engine completely out of fuel...then depending on how long i think i will not run it i will load it up with some type of oil'''i usually use after run oil because my engines have no epoxy in them...check it every week or two...like role it back and forth...also...after run oil will attack some epoxy's...if you are gonna use after run oil...make sure that your crank does not have epoxy in it...epoxy is how you change your timing among other things...
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:31 PM   #5747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
A guy at my LHS recommended that I switch to the 15T gear (VZ214-15). Kit comes with 16T. Anybody got any advice to go along with this changing in gearing? Thanks!


sounds like a gear salesman...the 16 with just about any .12 is rank...
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:46 PM   #5748
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Default Rear Shock Mount

For those of you using the new Kyosho rear shock tower and aluminum mount, where do you mount the upper link (outer, middle or inner)? The manual that comes with it says to use the outer with the 2mm spacer but it seems like I will have to grind the plastic knuckle a lot in order to get any up/down movement in the arm. Is this what you have done?

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Old 04-08-2006, 10:04 PM   #5749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
what you guys do if you are not running your car like a month or two??

1- Using after run oil

2- leave it as its is

3- ( better suggestion )



I would probably run it completely out of gas and either put after run oil in it or pull the motor out, take it apart, clean it and reassemble. It would depend upon how much I liked the engine.
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:13 PM   #5750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
For those of you using the new Kyosho rear shock tower and aluminum mount, where do you mount the upper link (outer, middle or inner)? The manual that comes with it says to use the outer with the 2mm spacer but it seems like I will have to grind the plastic knuckle a lot in order to get any up/down movement in the arm. Is this what you have done?

Thanks,
jag
I'm not sure why they made it that way, theres a few guys that have that mount on there cars and had to grind away also, waiting for the race results before I spend that much money and only have one mount postion that can be used, why they did not stick to the standard style and fix the shock tower problem only?
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:22 PM   #5751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
For those of you using the new Kyosho rear shock tower and aluminum mount, where do you mount the upper link (outer, middle or inner)? The manual that comes with it says to use the outer with the 2mm spacer but it seems like I will have to grind the plastic knuckle a lot in order to get any up/down movement in the arm. Is this what you have done?

Thanks,
jag
I'm using the middle hole. The instructions do say that you need to trim the plastic retainers. Don't forget you can also use a spacer under the inner mount to change the roll centre and this will also reduce the amount of material to be removed.
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:59 AM   #5752
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Does anybody know of a U.S. Web site that carries the entire V1RRR WCE product line?

The only non-US store I found that carries the entire WCE line is rcsquare.com out of Hong Kong. If you've had any experience with this company, please let me know.

Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:18 AM   #5753
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i would also do the same...drain out all the nitro out from the engine but not using the after-run oil. Actually, quite a number of my friends using the after-run oil and they find it very difficult to start the engine for the next race. What i know they using OS, Sirio engine... but do you guys encounted this problem before?
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:37 AM   #5754
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It might be that they have put after run in the engine before the engine has cooled down - I've seen this happen - you get a kind of glaze on the piston and other components. This could be the cause.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:59 AM   #5755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
i would also do the same...drain out all the nitro out from the engine but not using the after-run oil. Actually, quite a number of my friends using the after-run oil and they find it very difficult to start the engine for the next race. What i know they using OS, Sirio engine... but do you guys encounted this problem before?
When I'm taking longer than a week break, I would dismantle the whole engine, clean it using spirit and then put a coat of ARO onto all the parts. If it's less than a week's break, I would just drain out the engine, put a few drops of ARO into the carb and glowplug opening, and give the engine a couple of bumps on the starterbox.

The engine might be a little bit harder to get fired up to tune due to it taking some time to burn off the ARO, and also not forgetting to mention the higher viscosity of the ARO as compared to the nitro we're using which translates into some extra load. But using ARO actually give me a peaceful mind on the aspect of taking care of the engine. Just don't go "POURING" in the ARO...
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Old 04-09-2006, 05:38 AM   #5756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Does anybody know of a U.S. Web site that carries the entire V1RRR WCE product line?

The only non-US store I found that carries the entire WCE line is rcsquare.com out of Hong Kong. If you've had any experience with this company, please let me know.

Thanks!
Sorry can't help with the US sites, but hear in Australia we find Hong Kong or Japan better options.

In Japan I use R/C Champ and in HK I use Harmony Model. Both of these don't have a catalogue of parts for you to look at but do keep the full range off RRR parts and other hopups.

http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_Inte...onal_index.htm . Here you can get newly released parts from Kyosho before they are released overseas. Also Kawahara hopups and tires.

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Send an email to Lam at this site with want you want and he will let you know prices in USD. Because he is located in HK he has better access to 3racing and KFactory parts.
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Old 04-09-2006, 05:38 AM   #5757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
When I'm taking longer than a week break, I would dismantle the whole engine, clean it using spirit and then put a coat of ARO onto all the parts. If it's less than a week's break, I would just drain out the engine, put a few drops of ARO into the carb and glowplug opening, and give the engine a couple of bumps on the starterbox.

The engine might be a little bit harder to get fired up to tune due to it taking some time to burn off the ARO, and also not forgetting to mention the higher viscosity of the ARO as compared to the nitro we're using which translates into some extra load. But using ARO actually give me a peaceful mind on the aspect of taking care of the engine. Just don't go "POURING" in the ARO...
huhz....troblesome leh...to dismantle the whole engine out....
so it's mean still depend on individed prefence, i guess..
By the way, how to know if our rear diff. oil is dry out ( to change new diff oil ).
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:04 AM   #5758
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What's ARO? If, after run oil desolves the putty in the crank, then will WD40 work. Maybe, White Lightening or electric motor bearing oil?
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:14 AM   #5759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
huhz....troblesome leh...to dismantle the whole engine out....
so it's mean still depend on individed prefence, i guess..
By the way, how to know if our rear diff. oil is dry out ( to change new diff oil ).
Troublesome it may be, but "dun prey prey"... ....the engine SINGS if u give it extra TLC... But yea, like you said, it all depends on individual preference. When my first engine died on me last year, I was left with no preference when I got myself a new engine...

On the diff, it's play-tell for me, if it's a 30k in it but yet it does not feel like one, I'll change it. Normally I change the diff oil at least once a month, depends on how often I play, once a week in my case.
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:14 AM   #5760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
I'm using the middle hole. The instructions do say that you need to trim the plastic retainers. Don't forget you can also use a spacer under the inner mount to change the roll centre and this will also reduce the amount of material to be removed.
Are you using the 2mm spacer at either end of the link?
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