R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-17-2006, 09:59 PM   #5416
Tech Fanatic
 
robert maestrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miramar
Posts: 906
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge
Seemed to work ok on the G4S I saw but you can't adjust from the outside like the Kyosho.

I run the factory clutch never tried this clutch.....So i dont have opinion try it and let us know
robert maestrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2006, 08:33 AM   #5417
Tech Elite
 
maskedrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MP9 is here ...stay tune !
Posts: 2,039
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I cant remember on which page saying that the 2 speed should be 4 turn and not 3 turn based on our manual stated... ture?
I based on the manual default 3 turn for the 2nd speed and seems like it didn't cut in, but only on 4 turn onward...
and my screwnuts seems like level with the hole after i turn on 4 turn...
did i get it wrong ??
__________________
Kyosho- Sirio/ OS engine- AVID bearing- Blue thunder fuel- Proline- RC dynamite- Sanwa- RC Art
maskedrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2006, 10:22 AM   #5418
Tech Addict
 
carkillaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 687
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
I cant remember on which page saying that the 2 speed should be 4 turn and not 3 turn based on our manual stated... ture?
I based on the manual default 3 turn for the 2nd speed and seems like it didn't cut in, but only on 4 turn onward...
and my screwnuts seems like level with the hole after i turn on 4 turn...
did i get it wrong ??
Adj to your likeing and track size but use the manuel as a good starting point
carkillaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2006, 01:23 PM   #5419
Tech Fanatic
 
Osiris 75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Converse, TX
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I thought my driveshafts were short, ot I did something wrong. Thanks for the clarification.. Good to know I didn't mess anything up on accident..
__________________
SPONSORS: AWESOMATIX USA / HOBBYWING USA / AVID CONCEPTS / R1 WURKS / POWERMASTER FUELS (VP RACING) / 2MM DESIGNS
RC TARGET/CAPRICORN USA / REFLEX RACING / ULTI TIRES

Chris Kemper
Osiris 75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2006, 08:37 PM   #5420
Tech Fanatic
 
Osiris 75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Converse, TX
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Question guys!! Is there supposed to be any play on the upper plate when you pull throttle? When I move my throttle servo either way, the upper plate and the servo moves. It's almost pulling my car to the right when I pull it. Maybe my ball ends ae too long?? Any ideas would help!!
__________________
SPONSORS: AWESOMATIX USA / HOBBYWING USA / AVID CONCEPTS / R1 WURKS / POWERMASTER FUELS (VP RACING) / 2MM DESIGNS
RC TARGET/CAPRICORN USA / REFLEX RACING / ULTI TIRES

Chris Kemper
Osiris 75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2006, 10:58 PM   #5421
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 874
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Question guys!! Is there supposed to be any play on the upper plate when you pull throttle? When I move my throttle servo either way, the upper plate and the servo moves. It's almost pulling my car to the right when I pull it. Maybe my ball ends ae too long?? Any ideas would help!!
Adjust the endpoint adjustments on your radio... Your settings are way to extreme... You can damage the carb on your motor and ruin your servo as well... If you can't get it dialed in... I'm sure your lhs can get you in the right direction.

RC_Alan
rc_alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2006, 11:03 PM   #5422
Tech Master
 
drfritz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Vancouver Wa usa
Posts: 1,769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Question guys!! Is there supposed to be any play on the upper plate when you pull throttle? When I move my throttle servo either way, the upper plate and the servo moves. It's almost pulling my car to the right when I pull it. Maybe my ball ends ae too long?? Any ideas would help!!
dang, to slow on the keyboard.
drfritz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 01:44 AM   #5423
Tech Elite
 
maskedrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MP9 is here ...stay tune !
Posts: 2,039
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

anyone tried evola spring??
Better or no different at all compare to the gold spring?
__________________
Kyosho- Sirio/ OS engine- AVID bearing- Blue thunder fuel- Proline- RC dynamite- Sanwa- RC Art
maskedrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 02:39 AM   #5424
Tech Regular
 
Secret_weapon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dubai
Posts: 257
Default

I tried them, but i didn't feel a difference.

I think it depends on your driving and your car setup, or the track condition.

What I do when my car's back is loose I use softer foams or put softer spring and thin shock oil.
Secret_weapon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 03:52 AM   #5425
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

I tried the red Evolva springs for the rear and I was really happy with the difference it made. I tend to like to have a lot of on-power steering and this helped a lot. It does really depend upon driving style, but it is worth trying, I think.

Cheers, Mark.
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 04:06 AM   #5426
B4
Tech Addict
 
B4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 642
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
I tried the red Evolva springs for the rear and I was really happy with the difference it made. I tend to like to have a lot of on-power steering and this helped a lot. It does really depend upon driving style, but it is worth trying, I think.

Cheers, Mark.
I think I remember you saying the tracks you run on suit the locked front diff. So is the improved on power steering coming out of low speed corners.
B4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 04:15 AM   #5427
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

First, I would like to thank everyone that responded to my posts over the past couple of weeks. It really helped me prepare for the championship races this weekend and fix quite a number problems. I could not have done it without you!

Team Mugen Seiki was the only sponsered team at the event (Swauger, Ishitani and Thomas) - and they swept up the 1/10 Mod Sedan A Main 1st, 2nd and 3rd place trophies - plus a couple more in other classes. These guys were totally awesome and inspiring! I had a chance to ask Ishitani a lot of questions and he provided me with some really great tips and advice.

Unfortunately, heavy rains on day 2 cancelled the Mains. Trophies were awarded on qualifying positions from day 1. I picked up the D Main 3rd place trophy - which is pretty cool, considering that this was only the third time I've every used/raced a hobby-grade car. Third time = 3 days of practice and racing. I placed 3rd in the D Main the last time we raced as well. (Since we only use a temporary track and the inside changes every race, we only get to practice on race days). I really need to work on driving - especially throttle control and powering out of turns. Watching Team Mugen really helped me see how the pros drive and have their cars setup.

Clutch: Worked like it was suppose to work. It worked so well, that I might actually have to tighten up the clutch spring nut.

Setup: Car handled very predictably. Very neutral in and out of turns. Still having some rear coning at 2.5 camber, but that may go away once I change my rear shore from 37 to 42 . Ishitani said that they changed their shore from 37 to 42 based on tire wear.

Engine: Major P6 glow plug problems with my OS 12TZ 3-Port. Engine loaded up on idle while on the ground and would die on throttle (ugh!), couldn't lean it out without it going too lean - and in open practice, it sounded as if it was going to blow up (reving super high after just a few laps). I could only run with a P3 plug, but burned out the "borrowed used one" from the last race day. Luckily, a buddy had a new P3 on him. With the P3, the car could sit idle for 30 seconds without loading up and the engine produced some great power down the straightaway. Definitely need to work on tuning the engine though. Running the P3 is a temporary fix. In heat#3, some crash damage bent the stinger, which got blocked by the body, which prevented any power on the straightaway. I'm lucky the engine didn't die on me during the heat.

Overall, I really enjoyed my first championship race - and like I mentioned, you guys helped make it possible.
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 04:19 AM   #5428
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
I think I remember you saying the tracks you run on suit the locked front diff. So is the improved on power steering coming out of low speed corners.
They generally suit diff and locked. But where I tested with the red springs, I was using a one-way, as the track had a lot of grip.
But the situation is the same, I'm limiting the weight transfer on power to the rear, which therefore improves the on power steering.

Whether the red springs work so well on the lower grip tracks, I can't yet say, as the tracks are closed until the begining of april
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 04:36 AM   #5429
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Unfortunately, heavy rains on day 2 cancelled the Mains. Trophies were awarded on qualifying positions from day 1. I picked up the D Main 3rd place trophy - which is pretty cool, considering that this was only the third time I've every used/raced a hobby-grade car. Third time = 3 days of practice and racing. I placed 3rd in the D Main the last time we raced as well. (Since we only use a temporary track and the inside changes every race, we only get to practice on race days). I really need to work on driving - especially throttle control and powering out of turns. Watching Team Mugen really helped me see how the pros drive and have their cars setup.
Hey congratulations, that's a really good start!

Quote:
Setup: Car handled very predictably. Very neutral in and out of turns. Still having some rear coning at 2.5 camber, but that may go away once I change my rear shore from 37 to 42 . Ishitani said that they changed their shore from 37 to 42 based on tire wear.
A slight coning is exactly what you want with the rear tyres, as long as the coning is large on the outside to small on the inside.
The fronts should wear flat, though.

Quote:
Engine: Major P6 glow plug problems with my OS 12TZ 3-Port. Engine loaded up on idle while on the ground and would die on throttle (ugh!), couldn't lean it out without it going too lean - and in open practice, it sounded as if it was going to blow up (reving super high after just a few laps). I could only run with a P3 plug, but burned out the "borrowed used one" from the last race day. Luckily, a buddy had a new P3 on him. With the P3, the car could sit idle for 30 seconds without loading up and the engine produced some great power down the straightaway. Definitely need to work on tuning the engine though. Running the P3 is a temporary fix. In heat#3, some crash damage bent the stinger, which got blocked by the body, which prevented any power on the straightaway. I'm lucky the engine didn't die on me during the heat.
Ok, sound like you need to work with your engine setup. 30 seconds without the engine loading up in idle is too long. Here's what I do: get your engine warmed up and clean it out with two blasts of full throttle of about 1 second each with a pause of a couple of seconds in between.
Now leave the car idiling for 10 seconds. Then hit the throttle again full - this time it should sound slightly rich (i.e. not so clean). Leave it for 5 seconds and hit the throttle again and this should still be clean.

Then go out onto the track and do three or four flat out laps. Come back into the pits and check the temp with a good temp gun - it should be around about 210-220 F. Also you should see the temp fall reasonably quickly once you get back into the pits.

Tuning the high end needle will also affect the low end, so you'll need to check your low end again once you have your high end sorted out.

If your engine is hanging-up after full throttle sections, either your idle speed is set too high or the idle mixture is too rich (which could explain why the idle speed setting is too high).

You can also check this in the pits in the same way as you set your idle mixture. Hit the throttle to clean the engine out and then leave it 5 seconds or so and then give another one second full throttle blast and then immeditately hit the brakes. Repeat this again after a couple of seconds.
If your idle is remaining high, then it is probably too rich. Turn in the idle mixture setting about 5 minutes and turn out the idle speed at the same time maybe 10 mintues (as long as the car can still idle ok).
Repeat the test and see if it has improved. If it has then a little bit more.

Really you need to give your car to someone with experience of this to get the setting right, but you also need to learn how to do it.

BTW: We use the #8 Plug in the OS almost everywhere - with excellent results.

Cheers, Mark.
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2006, 04:40 AM   #5430
Tech Elite
 
markp27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nuremberg, Germany
Posts: 4,069
Send a message via ICQ to markp27
Default

BTW: If your engine is revving super high after running a few laps, this is probably an indication that the high end is set too lean, maybe because you were compensating for the low end being too rich.

Try and put the settings back to standard and then try to tune again from there, with the right plug
markp27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:05 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net