fritzD

iTrader: (1)

it was kyosho.... damn, i threw away the paper that had its part no.... anyway, il go to my LHS and see its part number...

markp27

As I'm using 0 offset wheels, I have to use +1mm offset wheel hexes at the rear in order to be able to get the 200mm width without the CVD driveshafts from hanging out. Actually they don't hang out, the are a bit too close to the edge for my liking, though.

Are you measuring your track width correctly. Make sure you place the car on a flat surface and press down to compress the suspension a little. What I do is place a metal ruler under the rear tyres and use the end of my hudy downstop tool to ensure the the end of the ruler is aligned with the outer edge of the wheel. Then going to the other side, I again place the downstop tool on the ruler and push the tool against the outside edge of the wheel. Then I can read off the exact trackwidth.

Cheers, Mark.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I'm using a Hudy setup board and standing up the ride height tool to make sure that I'm perpendicular to the wheel and board. With the driveshaft seated just at the edge of the outdrives before it bevels, my rear trackwidth is at 196mm. Front is 200mm.

If I could get longer outdrives or driveshafts, I would be in great shape, but given that I'm in Hawaii, it is highly unlikely that I will be able to obtain either of these before Saturday - but I will certainly give it a try. There is only one store here that really carries Kyosho touring car parts. They also carry Mugen and HPI, but I have no clue how interchangeable the parts are.

I just threw on the kit rear tires (luckily I didn't toss them) and it looks like it has a 2mm offset to allow for a 200mm trackwidth, with the driveshaft situated as indicated above - but the driveshaft should really be further in by at least 2-3mm to account for suspension travel.

Given what I've just stated, I'm making a big assumption that the new tires I purchased have a zero offset: http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp...atid=47&id=384. The code on the box reads DTM.30.37.GRP-C-W, if that means anything to anyone.

It seems that my situation could easily be remedied by purchasing some 2mm offset 30mm 37 shore tires, but even those may be hard to come by given the limited selection and inventory available at the store. I could also try getting the 1mm offset wheel hexes - and that will at least bring me up to 198mm.

I wish I would have know about all of this before I bought the new tires. Oh well! More living and learning.

markp27

Here's a picture of my RRR WC - this is with +1 offset hexes (i.e. each side is +1mm offset) and the wheels are 0mm offset.

Yours should be the same if your wheels are 0 offset. You could always put 1mm spacers between the wheel hexes and the wheels themselves - I do this sometimes, so I can quickly change the tracking width without having to change the whole camber etc.

Cheers, Mark.

markp27

You are also using New Arrows tyres, which I have on my car, too - the only difference being that you have the dished rims, whereas I have the spoked ones. Not sure if this makes a difference in the offset - but I would have thought if it wasn't noted on the box, then they should be 0mm offset.

markp27

A 2mm difference in total between the kit tyres and the new arrows? If so then you have exactly the same tyres and offset as I do - they should fit ok Can you maybe take some photos without the wheels?

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Here is a picture of the driveshaft relative to the outdrives. I hope this works, never did an attachment before..

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Without having adjusted the camber or toe, the distance between the rear hub at the pivot balls and the lower suspension arm is ~ 5.5mm rear and 6mm front.

markp27

Looks ok - looking at your camber link, it seems you are running very little rear camber - you'll probably need more than you have there - the kit setup has far too little camber for the tracks I race on. I have generally 2.5-3.5 degrees of camber at the rear.

You can only really judge what is correct at the track, but always aim for small amount of coning on the rear tyres after a run.

Try setting your camber to 2.5 and see if that helps with you driveshafts.

Cheers, Mark.

jeffreylin

If you guys wants to use 0 offset tires in the rear, you should replace your rear universals with PN# VSW007. The WC kit came with VSW015 which is shorter and designed to work with 2mm offset wheels that came with the kit.

markp27

Thanks for the tip, Jeffrey.

jeffreylin

You are welcome. BTW I was referring to the WCE. The regular kit comes with dog bones and wheel axles that fits 0 offset wheels just fine.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Jeffrey! You da man!!!

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I'll cross my fingers that they have it at the store when I stop by there at lunch today.

You know... I don't know what I would do without you guys. Your generosity in helping others is very much appreciated.

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for all the tips and hints guys, I finally got the engine started.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Today was my lucky day.

They had both the VSW007 (in stock) and VSW006 (which literally just came in). I saw the post below and decided go with the VSW006 to get the 52mm shaft. Given the fact that I think the kit shaft (VSW015) is too short to begin with, I wanted to give myself the flexibility to seat the driveshaft to my satisfaction in the outdrives. The last thing I wanted, was to see the new driveshaft in the same position as it is now.

What this also means, is that I'm unscrewing the pivot balls to make up the 2mm difference. In addition, the wheels don't have the 2mm offset - which I don't understand the implications of anyway. It's just 2mm. How much of a difference could it make anyway? Forget that I said that. If someone knows the impact of changing the wheel offset from 2mm to 0mm on a zero offset wheel shaft - while keeping the same trackwidth, please enlighten us. Same thing goes for running zero offset wheels in general. Note that VSW006 and VSW015 have the same zero offset wheel shaft.