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Old 03-10-2006, 04:20 AM   #5266
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Hey Guys, I know we been talking about this Setting for the toe in/out, camber degree for our babe..
admit i too lazy to find the thread, so can you guys share wht are the most common setting for all this (the most basic or rather default setting )
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:44 AM   #5267
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Admitantly, I haven't made the time to go through all 175 pages...

I've been seriously considering created a dedicated V-ONE-RRR Web site. Kinda of like a ultimate resources for the V-ONE RRR, but I'm too busy trying to fix/research my problems. I've made some serious progress given that I only have 2 races days under my belt (this is my first hobby grade R/C car) and there isn't a permanent track, so there are no such thing as tuning days The first race day was kinda disasterous, but the second race day I managed to keep the engine running all day and trim 5 seconds off of my lap time Hell, I even placed!

There is a championship race coming up in about a week and I have only about three things I need to work on:

1. Clutch slipping. Yeah, I'm still having problems. Went down to 0.6mm and I'm still having problems.

2. Understeer. As we have been discussing. But I made too many adjustments at one time - diff oil (less weight), tires (37 shore), track width (197 vice 200), steering throw (avoid rubbing end caps). Well, without a place/time to test thing out, you can only do so much. (More below)

3. Leaning out the engine. It's running much, much better and doesn't flame out anymore like the first race day, but I think it's still a bit too rich. I just have enough fuel to finish a race. Whew!

Well with only about an hour before two qualifying heats and an hour before three mains (per regular race day) there isn't a whole hell of a lot of time to tune things.

I certainly appreciate everyone's help thus far!
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:05 AM   #5268
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Default New rear shock tower

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/4955439870976/


Is this the same piece as the WC edition but thicker or does it have new mounting positions, I guess the question is if i buy the Skyline 4mm version will it fit?
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:23 AM   #5269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdav
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/4955439870976/


Is this the same piece as the WC edition but thicker or does it have new mounting positions, I guess the question is if i buy the Skyline 4mm version will it fit?
Yes and no. The new design has 4 screw holes whereas the old one only has 2. You can buy the Skyline one and just use 2 hole or drill 2 more holes for the 2 additional screws.

It does not have new mounting positions and it's not the same piece as the one in the WC edition.
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:31 AM   #5270
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Hey Lets get a little feel on who is attending the Kyosho Cup Race in Kissimmee......I am anyone else
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Old 03-10-2006, 04:13 PM   #5271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskedrider
Hey Guys, I know we been talking about this Setting for the toe in/out, camber degree for our babe..
admit i too lazy to find the thread, so can you guys share wht are the most common setting for all this (the most basic or rather default setting )
For toe I`d be suggesting 3 deg toe in on the rear and around 0.5 - 1 deg toe out for the front as starting points.
As for camber, try -3 deg on the rear, and -1 deg on the front as starting points.
These settings will all be dependent on the track size and surface as to how your car will respond, but theyre a good starting point.
Cheers
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:23 PM   #5272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
Hey Lets get a little feel on who is attending the Kyosho Cup Race in Kissimmee......I am anyone else
Count me in
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:49 PM   #5273
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Hello,

My car for 2006 :









I drive in France ( Strasbourg ).

@++
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Old 03-10-2006, 08:04 PM   #5274
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carkilaii U got PM
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Old 03-10-2006, 08:24 PM   #5275
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carkilaii U got PM
got it
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Old 03-11-2006, 02:51 AM   #5276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Admitantly, I haven't made the time to go through all 175 pages...

I've been seriously considering created a dedicated V-ONE-RRR Web site. Kinda of like a ultimate resources for the V-ONE RRR, but I'm too busy trying to fix/research my problems. I've made some serious progress given that I only have 2 races days under my belt (this is my first hobby grade R/C car) and there isn't a permanent track, so there are no such thing as tuning days The first race day was kinda disasterous, but the second race day I managed to keep the engine running all day and trim 5 seconds off of my lap time Hell, I even placed!

There is a championship race coming up in about a week and I have only about three things I need to work on:

1. Clutch slipping. Yeah, I'm still having problems. Went down to 0.6mm and I'm still having problems.

2. Understeer. As we have been discussing. But I made too many adjustments at one time - diff oil (less weight), tires (37 shore), track width (197 vice 200), steering throw (avoid rubbing end caps). Well, without a place/time to test thing out, you can only do so much. (More below)

3. Leaning out the engine. It's running much, much better and doesn't flame out anymore like the first race day, but I think it's still a bit too rich. I just have enough fuel to finish a race. Whew!

Well with only about an hour before two qualifying heats and an hour before three mains (per regular race day) there isn't a whole hell of a lot of time to tune things.

I certainly appreciate everyone's help thus far!
For the understeer.... What shock setup are you running? Use black springs with 35 weight oil and 2 hole piston, not the 1 hole as per kit as this is for very fast smooth tracks. Lay them down as much as possible.

Also raise the inserts on the roll centre at the front to give better turn in
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:13 AM   #5277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
For toe I`d be suggesting 3 deg toe in on the rear and around 0.5 - 1 deg toe out for the front as starting points.
As for camber, try -3 deg on the rear, and -1 deg on the front as starting points.
These settings will all be dependent on the track size and surface as to how your car will respond, but theyre a good starting point.
Cheers
thanks for the contribution AndyT
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:35 AM   #5278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toinou
Hello,

My car for 2006 :



I drive in France ( Strasbourg ).

@++
are these tyres any good? or is france the sort of country that rains alot?
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Old 03-11-2006, 06:48 AM   #5279
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AndyT - My thanks as well. I do have a rear right coning problem!

ziggy12345 - Thanks for the advice on the shocks.

The car is built per the kit contents and setup sheet - plus, I was strongly advised to build the car per the setup sheet. As a beginner, ultimately, this was good advice as it is a good starting setup for the car.

With the current setup I'm using, I have a few troublespots on the track, but if I follow a certain racing line and slow down in certain sections, I can make it around the track okay. I'm sure I could shave another 5 seconds off my lap times once I fix things. I think I just need to adjust a few things and the understeer problem will go away. Here is the plan:

1. Adjust the track width back to 200mm. The new tires I ran last weekend shortened the track width to 197mm. Because I didn't know better to adjust the steering throw the first time I raced, the front shock end caps got all scraped up, so I adjusted it after putting on the new tires. As a result of the 197mm track width, the tires were closer to the steering endcap than they should have been, which caused me to ultimately over adjust the steering throw. Once I go back to 200mm, it will give me the clearance so that I can actually turn more.

2. After disassemblying the front right suspension (I broke the top arm and split the front hub in two at the drive shaft - more below) and taking off the front bumper, I discovered that the right front set screw for the front stabilizer was set to far down, practially locking down the front right. As a result, there was very little movement of the right front suspension arm - which would explain why I started scraping off the paint inside the right front fender! (Ah ha!) I have no clue how the set screw got into this position, as I guarantee I adjusted it properly and checked it out when building the car. My thinking as I'm writing this, is that when I made right hand turns (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...87#post2195687), I had very poor traction on the front right tire!

Let me know if you guys think otherwise!

With this new information (#2), it's possible that changing the rear diff oil and going from 35 shore tires to 37 shore tires was the right choice. I was way too lose the first time out and as a beginner, oversteer (front one-way, rear diff) can be a real problem! I think I'm close given the track conditions and course layout, which changes slightly each time we race. Because of the race day time constraints, I really need to make some smart choices when making adjustments. If I had a tuning day, I could try everything everyone is recommending, but I can really only make a few minor adjustments on race day, run a few laps and then assess the impact of the changes. Because I'm still new a this, driving a slightly new course, assessing changes and deciding what to adjust next is proving to be quite challenging. Tack on a slipping clutch and engine tuning and I've got my hands full. I know that things will get better over time, but right now - it's kinda stressful!

Questions: I need to adjust the camber if I want to address the right rear coning problem. I've been reading that going to more negative rear camber will cause understeer. If I do fixes #1 and #2, I don't want to end up with another understeering problem! Can I just adjust the camber without adjusting the toe in or do I need to do both? Does adjusting the rear toe in offset the camber adjustment?? Thanks!

P.S. How I smashed the front right end:

So here I was, sitting pretty in 1st place. 2nd place started late, but he is a very experienced driver breaking in a new car. On the last lap, he caught up to me at the start of the straightaway. I tried to out race him (BIG MISTAKE), but braked too late at the end of the straightaway before the sweeping turn and hit the PVC race barrier pretty hard, taking out the front right. I finished the rest of the lap on 3 wheels and the bottom bumper bracket (which I shaved down to the point of having to replace it), but had enough of a lead to finished 2nd for race. The silver lining in all of this, was that I discovered the front stabilizer problem!!!!
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Old 03-11-2006, 07:25 AM   #5280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
are these tyres any good? or is france the sort of country that rains alot?
In France, they have two category to drive. Promotion with rubber tyre and Open with foams tyres.

Last year i drove in Kyosho Cup but i have decided this year to drive in rubber tyres to learn to regulate/adjust my car.

At the moment yes it rains a lot

P.S : sorry for my bad english
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