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Old 02-14-2006, 09:50 PM   #4996
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hello again i just got back from the movies my 3R & I WENT 2 C broke back mtn heart warming to say the least enough of that seem to be having trouble raising the ride height any ideals
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:59 PM   #4997
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Will how did u build the shocks
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:59 PM   #4998
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Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
hello again i just got back from the movies my 3R & I WENT 2 C broke back mtn heart warming to say the least enough of that seem to be having trouble raising the ride height any ideals
check your droop screws, seems like it's preventing the arm from dropping down.. this usually happens as your tires gets smaller..
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:09 PM   #4999
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thnx will do
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:15 PM   #5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
hello again i just got back from the movies my 3R & I WENT 2 C broke back mtn heart warming to say the least enough of that seem to be having trouble raising the ride height any ideals
Did you adjust your shocks that can help with the ride height to raise it or lower it.
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:21 PM   #5001
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yeah did that i better take off the shocks make sure the arms drop down i know its nothing major
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:07 AM   #5002
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Default One-way vs Front Differential

What has been your experience with a front one-way versus front differential on tight tracks? Does belt tension (tight vs loose) make a difference in either case?

All the guys that I've spoken to at my local track say that I should switch out the one-way to a front diff. Why would Kyosho put out the car with a one-way to begin with? There must be certain advantages to a one-way that I'm missing. The kit comes with the necessary parts for a front diff minus the diff gear set and bevel shafts, so I'm not sure what to think of this. Isn't it possible to adjust the wheel alignment / tire shore when using a one-way to compensate for any handling deficiencies on tight tracks?

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Old 02-15-2006, 03:20 AM   #5003
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The only disadvantage i have with a one-way is no brakes, but if you can drive without it then the one-way can be lethal.

Alot of people have different theories about what you should use for tight and open tracks, some say one-way is good for tight tracks because it gives alot of steering then others say diff or axle is good for tight tracks because it provides brakes to stop.

I don't know whats true because i have had alot of success with one-way at both style tracks it depends on driving style, solid or axle is easier to drive with but one-way would be faster.

Try all of them and see what works best, you can get a one-way from k-factory that converts into solid just by putting 2 pins in.
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Old 02-15-2006, 04:05 AM   #5004
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the car can be driven with the 1way you guys must set up your cars to slow down in the turn not stop!! it can be done just take your time and set the car up
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:49 AM   #5005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What has been your experience with a front one-way versus front differential on tight tracks? Does belt tension (tight vs loose) make a difference in either case?

All the guys that I've spoken to at my local track say that I should switch out the one-way to a front diff. Why would Kyosho put out the car with a one-way to begin with? There must be certain advantages to a one-way that I'm missing. The kit comes with the necessary parts for a front diff minus the diff gear set and bevel shafts, so I'm not sure what to think of this. Isn't it possible to adjust the wheel alignment / tire shore when using a one-way to compensate for any handling deficiencies on tight tracks?

Thanks!

V-ONE RRR WC Edition
OS .12 TZ(P)T 3-Port
In the hands of a good driver, the one-way is the fastest way around the track. For normal drivers (like me) a front diff or locked one-way is easier to drive. When setup correctly, a front diff will handle almost as well as a one-way but the car will be not as quick, especially out of the corners. With a locked one-way, the car will be very quick but the handling will suffer. The car will not turn as well. I must tell you that my information comes from experience with my Serpent and not my RRR. I assume the results will be similar except the RRR turns better so the locked one-way may not be as bad.
If your track is tight I would try all the options and see which works best for you.
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:08 AM   #5006
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Great info. good to know the difference between one way vs diff.& solid I like running with a one way, but I will try out a diff & solid sometime down the line.
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Old 02-15-2006, 02:49 PM   #5007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyosho3PKRacer
Try all of them and see what works best, you can get a one-way from k-factory that converts into solid just by putting 2 pins in.
There`s also the Atomic Multi-Diff.......same thing as above, use a pin to switch between a solid front diff and a one way.
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:04 PM   #5008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
There`s also the Atomic Multi-Diff.......same thing as above, use a pin to switch between a solid front diff and a one way.
I was thinking about getting the Atomic Multi-Diff. Anybody have any comments on it's performance/quality?
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:51 PM   #5009
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Default Hopups

Hey, I just got a V one RRR WC with a sensor and a OS 12TZ 5P... and when i weighed it, the chassis weighed 3,000 grams.... I'm trying to get my car to weigh somewhere at 1,000 - 1,700... Do you know any hopups/upgrades i can buy to lower the heavieness and to improve the steering? Money isn't an issue....

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2006, 04:47 PM   #5010
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Look into lightweight shafts,pulleys,clutchbell,& what servos are you using
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