Toinou

Hello all,

I have a question, i will drive this year with rubber tyres and i would like to know if i have to used the pulley 23 or 24 and if i have to use the drive belt 384 or 387 drive belt for the preponderance ??

When i drive in mousse tyre i used pulley 23 and the drive belt 384.

Does preponderacne (influe) on the mousse tyre or on rubber tyres or can I drive with the same preponderance either in mousse or in rubber ??

Thank you for answers.

@++

P.S : sorry for my bad english

RRRoy23

iTrader: (10)

make sure you use the right size phillip screw driver. the screws can easily be stripped. Enjoy putting it together.

jag

What do you guys do to keep the brakes from dragging... if anything? Do you put springs between the pads, return spring on the arm, etc... I find that the brake arm does not return to neutral very well.

Thanks,
jag

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Re-align you linkage stoppers and spring on the throttle servo mixing arm / horn.

V1-RRR-WC

The K-Factory upgrade pads come with springs to go between them. You can do what kewdawg suggested and then perhaps some ball point pen springs between the pads.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Also, Make sure the mounting screws for the brake plates are of equal length when screwed into the mount. If, not, this can cause the brake plates to rest unevenly and rub the brake disk. The brake plates should have a little "play" in them when the assembly is together.

jag

I'm not sure I understand what you are telling me. How about a picture? I was adjusting my endpoints and I find that when I apply the brakes and then let off, the brake lever doesn't return to a neutral position. There is no return spring in the brake assembly. It is not that the linkage is binding or dragging. If I push the brake lever with my finger and let go it doesn't release. It just stays there. The brake disk is floating when the brake is not applied and the pads are not binding on the screws. Maybe it's just because the car is new and sitting on a stand and not running. Maybe the brake assembly will loosen over time... I don't know.

Thanks

jag

Do you have a part number? Do the springs last? I did this to my T-Maxx and it worked pretty good but this is a different application.

Do you know of a place to buy K-Factory and Kawahara parts in the US?

Thanks

jeffreylin

Use 24T pulley and 387 side belt for rubber tires.

robert maestrey

Both cars felt very similar....I think all the top cars are very good. I think it boils down to what you feel most comfortable driving. just my opinion.

robert maestrey

Wow...What a development Jim......you are now jumping on the RRR train... Congrats I hope you like it. I wont be coming up to the track on wednesday I have alot of prep work to do for W-nats......I will be at the Go-racing track on sunday, If you like to come down i will show you some cool things i did to the car regarding wiring, and to free up the drive train.
I will be there all day sunday. By the way Yes I iwll have some ponies for the RRr come W-nats.

B4

iTrader: (1)

If i'm not mistaken you can only download a blank setup sheet that can only be used as a hard copy.

V1-RRR-WC

Hi JAg,

The part number is K1498. Here is the page link as well -

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1498&pageNum=1

As for being able to purchase these parts in the US, you could check Crispy Critters who is also a member of this forum.

http://www.crispycrittershobbyshop.com/store/home.php

Their contact number is 973-790-3800

mcsquish

iTrader: (1)

Jag, I have the plugs pointing up. I just run the wires up to the reciever at the backside of the upper deck. I don't run a switch, they are too heavy. J/K, I haven't had the best of luck with switches, I just unplug the battery from the reciever. I also took a chunck of bicycle innertube and wrapped the reciever in it.

fritzD

iTrader: (1)

oh yeah... i didn't realize that... well, i guess you'd have to print and edit manually.. heheh