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Old 01-08-2006, 11:04 AM   #4636
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Ok Guys,

Question.....As your foam tires wear and reduce in dia. do you simply increase your ride height to compensate for this with the shock adjusters?

Would this not continue to throw off other settings????

Hope it's not a stupid question...
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:59 AM   #4637
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Not a bad question at all, actually.

When you adjust the ride height by adjusting the shock spring pre-tension adjusters, you will also affect the amount of droop the car has.

Just in case droop is an unfamilar term, here is what it is: take your car and place it on a flat surface. Under the weight of the car, the rear suspension "sags" down a bit. Now if you place a screwdriver underneath the chassis and slowly raise the chassis up, you will note that the suspension arms start to drop down as you bring the chassis up. At some point the suspension arm downward travel will be stopped by the droop or downstop screws. If you would have measured the amount of upward travel of the chassis from the point where the car was simply sitting on the flat surface to the point at which the wheels lost contact with that surface, then you would have measured the droop value.

Now as your tyres wear, the droop doesn't change - it is fixed by the settings of the droop screws, but the distance between the chassis and the ground does.
At some point you'll want to raise your chassis to maintain a reasonable ground clearence. This, as you know, is achieved by adding pre-tension to the shock springs. Now, in adding pre-tension to the springs, what acutally happens is the load from the springs forces the suspension arms down and therefore raises the chassis height. Now the arms are further "down" towards the chassis in comparison to how they were with the larger tyres. This also means that the suspension arms don't have as far to travel in the downward direction until the droop screws make contact with the chassis. So, to maintain your prefered amount of droop, you have to back out the droop screws a little.

If you measure the droop using hudy guages, then simply increase the droop (i.e. the arms need to droop down more) by the same amount as you increased the ride height by.

All of this will also affect the camber, so also check the camber values once your have got your ride-height and droop setup.

Just a quick note about camber: you can tell if your camber is appoximately ok, when your front tyres wear flat and the rear tyres cone in (i.e. outside larger than the insides).

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Mark.

Last edited by markp27; 01-08-2006 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 01-08-2006, 03:09 PM   #4638
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what are you guys using for springs? are you just using the gold,black,and silver or are there more springs i can use to fine tune this car?
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Old 01-08-2006, 05:43 PM   #4639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
what are you guys using for springs? are you just using the gold,black,and silver or are there more springs i can use to fine tune this car?
I believe Hobao springs are the right diameter and length, but I could be mistaken.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:14 PM   #4640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
what are you guys using for springs? are you just using the gold,black,and silver or are there more springs i can use to fine tune this car?
According to the 200mm Worlds video, theres also some green springs available but I`m yet to see them.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:31 PM   #4641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
According to the 200mm Worlds video, theres also some green springs available but I`m yet to see them.
if i'm not mistaken those are evolva springs. or are these the ones? http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php...5a&filter_id=4
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Old 01-08-2006, 09:05 PM   #4642
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This should be handy to keep...

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Old 01-08-2006, 09:06 PM   #4643
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And this could be helpful, I used this to get the spring rates for my RRR.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech10.htm
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:26 PM   #4644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
According to the 200mm Worlds video, theres also some green springs available but I`m yet to see them.
Hi Andy,

Pretty sure these are the springs from the V1S series. They come in a 3 pack, i think all of us used them when we were in Brendale last year for the Qld State Titles as it was quite bumpy.

I have tried the Phantom springs early on but pretty much found they were to stiff.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 01-09-2006, 12:56 AM   #4645
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Can anyone give some good advice on how to assemble/fill up the shocks with oil? This is my first time with bladder shocks, and I'm not sure if I got them assembled the right way. Previously with my NTC3, I was able to get the suspension arms to fall down freely when lifting the car up (with the shocks and tires on); but can't seem to do so on my WCE RRR. Any advice will be very much appreciated!
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:41 AM   #4646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Can anyone give some good advice on how to assemble/fill up the shocks with oil? This is my first time with bladder shocks, and I'm not sure if I got them assembled the right way. Previously with my NTC3, I was able to get the suspension arms to fall down freely when lifting the car up (with the shocks and tires on); but can't seem to do so on my WCE RRR. Any advice will be very much appreciated!
i posted it sometime back, but i know the pain of going through the pages, so here you go

this is how i do it.
-after you assembled the shock piston, fill up the shock to the top. move the piston up and down until all the air bubbles start to come out. wait for the bubbles to disappear (might take few minutes depends on the wt). after it disappear, put a few more drops to the top again.

-put the membrane and press it down (not too hard) to let the oil flow out from the shock body (you might want to hold it it with cloth or tissue).

-put the shock cap on and tighten it.

that's how i do my shocks

and i hate to build associated shocks
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:12 AM   #4647
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so you fill the shock to the top and then let the excess go by pushing down the membrane ?
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:32 AM   #4648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
so you fill the shock to the top and then let the excess go by pushing down the membrane ?
yes, just push until there are no gaps, don't overpush else you will allow some air to go in again.
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:42 PM   #4649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodo
i posted it sometime back, but i know the pain of going through the pages, so here you go

this is how i do it.
-after you assembled the shock piston, fill up the shock to the top. move the piston up and down until all the air bubbles start to come out. wait for the bubbles to disappear (might take few minutes depends on the wt). after it disappear, put a few more drops to the top again.

-put the membrane and press it down (not too hard) to let the oil flow out from the shock body (you might want to hold it it with cloth or tissue).

-put the shock cap on and tighten it.

that's how i do my shocks

and i hate to build associated shocks
Try this air remover. It really works. I bought one so that I can make very smooth shocks.
http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....roducts_id/329
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Old 01-09-2006, 02:33 PM   #4650
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i'm sorry tommi but I don't have a clue as to what that sheet is saying in relation to what springs will fit my rrr besides the black,silver,and gold.
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