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Old 01-01-2006, 05:26 PM   #4501
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well, the pins are tight in the wishbones.
So you can either make the holes in the wishbones bigger to make them loose, or leave them tight, so that the wishbone turns the pins in the roll centre bushes at either end.

im not sure whats best to do.
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:37 PM   #4502
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Thanks guys! I think I will try out the skyline tuned pipes as well!
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:35 AM   #4503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrossco_1
well, the pins are tight in the wishbones.
So you can either make the holes in the wishbones bigger to make them loose, or leave them tight, so that the wishbone turns the pins in the roll centre bushes at either end.

im not sure whats best to do.
Ross,

I wouldn't worry to much about this, i think you will find its actually one of the parts on the car that doesn't need replacing frequently. Kyosho make a special reamer .05 (i think) bigger than the pin. Just run it through the arm and bulkhead, assemble it and make sure its not binding up. Kyosho's parts fit is pretty good so you will find not all arms need reaming anyway.

This car, although very good, has one major problem, and its that it rips through parts like there is no tomorrow. You will spend more money on outdrives, doggies and pinions than you will ever spend on plastic parts thats for sure.

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Old 01-02-2006, 03:23 AM   #4504
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Quote:
This car, although very good, has one major problem, and its that it rips through parts like there is no tomorrow. You will spend more money on outdrives, doggies and pinions than you will ever spend on plastic parts thats for sure.
Regards
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Kyle,
IMHO i don't think this car goes through many parts at all, overall I think the car is very strong. I had a S710 before my RRR and was allways putting my hand in my pocket to buy new parts.
The only thing that I think Kyosho should do at a minimum is get rid of the standart belts and just supply SP belts. I'm not sure if it's just happened to me but over a long race if the F/R split reduces to nothing or close to it then the standard side belt will start shedding teeth.
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:42 AM   #4505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
Kyle,
IMHO i don't think this car goes through many parts at all, overall I think the car is very strong. I had a S710 before my RRR and was allways putting my hand in my pocket to buy new parts.
The only thing that I think Kyosho should do at a minimum is get rid of the standart belts and just supply SP belts. I'm not sure if it's just happened to me but over a long race if the F/R split reduces to nothing or close to it then the standard side belt will start shedding teeth.
B4,

The car is very strong, but from our experiences we think its hard on parts. They dont break, they just wear and reduce the performance of the car. For example the drive cups wear quite quickly and as they do the handling of the car deteriates as the suspension doesn't work as well as it should. This is one example.

The SP belts are very good, i dont think anyone uses the std belts anymore. We use them out of a new kit, say for club racing, and then turf them after they are stuffed, most of the time they loose a tooth or 2 and then they get chucked in the bin, ie like your side belt. I dont think the reduction in your split over a race distance has anything to do with stripping a standard side belt.

Regards

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Old 01-02-2006, 07:43 AM   #4506
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I agree with B4. This car has to be the toughest on the market! Also, I don't think the car is hard on parts, either. Last season, no one in my area (PA,NJ,DE,MD) drove a nitro touring car harder than me and I pushed this car to it's limits, repeatedly! I've had some outrageous crashes with minimal or no damage at all! Things like a stripped shock end, a bent swaybar or a bent steering turnbuckle, a cracked steering knuckle and a cracked screw hole in one of the rear hubs, a slightly frayed rear belt (no missing teeth), a bent hinge pin (after being put into the pipes at the bottom of the straight). At the very end of last season, I did notice some broken parts that I didn't notice while driving. Such as the front lower pillow ball hole in the right arm cracked and I bent my chassis. I know this may seem like a lot, but trust me - If, you saw how ballistic my car was, you would expect it to have been destroyed! I had these things happen over an entire season, NOT two weeks or a month of driving. I'm really curious as to what you guys are doing with you triple R's?
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Last edited by kewdawg; 01-02-2006 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:49 AM   #4507
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The car IS hard on parts, especially the outdrives and the dog bones/universals. I have a Mugen MRX4 and despite the additional power and grip of 1/8 the outdrives do not wear nearly as quickly.
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Old 01-02-2006, 10:58 AM   #4508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
The car IS hard on parts, especially the outdrives and the dog bones/universals. I have a Mugen MRX4 and despite the additional power and grip of 1/8 the outdrives do not wear nearly as quickly.
I have WCE and it came with universals. I don't have any noticeable wear in the outdrives and my engine is a torky little S.O.B.! Which reminds me, I did manage to slightly bend a uiversal. Luckily, I was able to bend it back, so it wasn't junked.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:09 AM   #4509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
I have WCE and it came with universals. I don't have any noticeable wear in the outdrives and my engine is a torky little S.O.B.! Which reminds me, I did manage to slightly bend a uiversal. Luckily, I was able to bend it back, so it wasn't junked.
I've been running this car for over a year, always with universals front and rear. The pins on the bones get flat spots and the real outdrives notch after 2-3 races. I started to use the Tamiya Anti-Wear Grease and it has help to double their life but I still have to replace them on a regular basis.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:21 AM   #4510
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Default CERAMIC BALL BEARINGS

WILL IT BE A GO THING TO PUT CERAMIC BEARINGS IN A V-1RRR OR WILL THEY WEAR OUT TO FAST.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:53 AM   #4511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I've been running this car for over a year, always with universals front and rear. The pins on the bones get flat spots and the real outdrives notch after 2-3 races. I started to use the Tamiya Anti-Wear Grease and it has help to double their life but I still have to replace them on a regular basis.
I haven't noticed any such wear, at all. Flat spots and notches after 2 - 3 races??? This sounds like excessive wear to the extreme. That's really strange don't you think? What has Kyosho said about it? Could it be the adjustment cams for the belts in the bulkheads (the diff might be slanted in the bulkhead, causing the premature wear)? It's fairly easy to offset the notches when assembling / adjusting the diffs in the bulkheads.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:10 PM   #4512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
I haven't noticed any such wear, at all. Flat spots and notches after 2 - 3 races??? This sounds like excessive wear to the extreme. That's really strange don't you think? What has Kyosho said about it? Could it be the adjustment cams for the belts in the bulkheads (the diff might be slanted in the bulkhead, causing the premature wear)? It's fairly easy to offset the notches when assembling / adjusting the diffs in the bulkheads.
Well, 2-3 races is like 1.5-2 gallons of fuel between the testing, qualifying and the long main. The wear also depends on the track too. At larger tracks it wears quicker than smaller tracks, but that's the case for everything.

I don't think it's diff, belt or the bulkheads. I regularly rebuild my cars and I have 2 RRRs and race on different tracks. They all wear out quickly just the same.
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Old 01-02-2006, 12:59 PM   #4513
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My experience with the RRR, pinions and the rear out drives wore out faster than other cars i have owned but I heard that they released new pinions.

Still a great car but just need to keep an eye on the out drives since it messes up the handling of your car especially if you have long sweeping turns.

Last edited by Francis M.; 01-02-2006 at 01:02 PM. Reason: adding additional info
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:02 PM   #4514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Well, 2-3 races is like 1.5-2 gallons of fuel between the testing, qualifying and the long main. The wear also depends on the track too. At larger tracks it wears quicker than smaller tracks, but that's the case for everything.

I don't think it's diff, belt or the bulkheads. I regularly rebuild my cars and I have 2 RRRs and race on different tracks. They all wear out quickly just the same.
Wow!!! That's a ton of racing! Excluding break-in, I use 1.5 to 2 gallons per season! Well, no wonder they're wearing out so fast. Dude, you're killin' those poor cars! I'd hate to see your tire bill! Are you running back to back tanks, regularly? You're probably not allowing the metals sufficient time to cool. Still, 2 - 3 races seems too quick for those parts to wear out. How long are the mains?
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:18 PM   #4515
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I race with jeffery lin at rev and crystal park the mains are 40 min. long.

oh and we have a lot of two day events.
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