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Old 12-02-2005, 12:03 AM   #4321
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hey jeff what car is that on your avatar Evolva? also what's a good .12 engine have you driven the mtx-4?....
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:06 AM   #4322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FW-05RR
hey jeff what car is that on your avatar Evolva? also what's a good .12 engine have you driven the mtx-4?....
Hey Daniel it's the MRX4. I have not tried the MTX4--I am sticking with the RRR.
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:13 AM   #4323
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Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Yes. They are fantastic and they never break. I've had the regular ones bend or break all together on my FW05RR and RRR. Once I swithed to the black one I haven't had one problem yet.
thanks jeff yea i brought some black coated ones didnt know they were suppose to be for the 1/8th scale

freefallmarine : 3 racing make good wheel hex's , i dislike the kyosho ones as its a pain to get them off as you have to pry the hex's out abit to release the pressure so that the pin falls out. with 3 racing ones you just untighten a 1.5mm bolt and slide the hex out

also guys heres an idea if anyone wants to use a solid in their RRR's
in the Vones 3 Kits they all come with a solid diff which looks very similar to a front one way except the housing is plastic, so you dont get all that trouble of clearence with the diff casing. ill get some part numbers as soon as my spares spools arrives i believe you only need 3 part bags
out drives
plastic parts bag
and pulley set

its pretty similar design to the 710 spool where they modify their front one way into a solid by putting a pin through the oneway housing and the pin slides through the outdrives and then a coupling wraps over the housing so the pin stays put.
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:34 AM   #4324
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3 racing makes some decent clamp on hexes w/ a 1mm offset. i've been using them w/ no problems
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:50 AM   #4325
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Default V-OneRRR WCE

I am contemplating selling my brand new never run V-oneRRR. It has not touched the ground yet. It can go as an RTR minus the receiver. It has an OS TZ .12 3 port (new), VR12 pipe (new) Hitech Servos (new). Upgrades include 4mm rear shock tower and the lightweight clutch bell. Also has a Mazda 6 custom painted body. I will have pics available this weekend. I figured I would list it here first before listing it in the Classified section. Asking $700.00 plus shipping for the RTR.

Last edited by svines1972; 12-05-2005 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:22 AM   #4326
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svine,

You got PM.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972
I am contemplating selling my brand new never run V-oneRRR. It has not touched the ground yet. It can go as an RTR minus the receiver or I can sell as a roller. It has an OS TZ .12 3 port (new), VR12 pipe (new) Hitech Servos (new). Upgrades include 4mm rear shock tower and the lightweight clutch bell. Also has a Mazda 6 custom painted body. I will have pics available this weekend. I figured I would list it here first before listing it in the Classified section. Asking $750.00 plus shipping for the RTR. $350.00 plus shipping for the roller.
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:10 PM   #4327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svines1972
I am contemplating selling my brand new never run V-oneRRR. It has not touched the ground yet. It can go as an RTR minus the receiver. It has an OS TZ .12 3 port (new), VR12 pipe (new) Hitech Servos (new). Upgrades include 4mm rear shock tower and the lightweight clutch bell. Also has a Mazda 6 custom painted body. I will have pics available this weekend. I figured I would list it here first before listing it in the Classified section. Asking $750.00 plus shipping for the RTR.
how much for just the rolling chassis?
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:42 PM   #4328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Hey Daniel it's the MRX4. I have not tried the MTX4--I am sticking with the RRR.
sweet ride Jeff love the paint work
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Old 12-03-2005, 01:31 AM   #4329
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Default kyosho front unis and switch

any tips when installing these ?

does anyone have any tips on installing a switch to the rrr ?

thanks!
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Old 12-03-2005, 05:36 AM   #4330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
any tips when installing these ?

does anyone have any tips on installing a switch to the rrr ?

thanks!
Dont bother, wire straight into the reciever, switches are just one more thing that can go wrong....
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Old 12-03-2005, 06:22 PM   #4331
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so plug the battery straight into the receiver and pull out for charging and in between rounds ?

thats what ive been doing
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Old 12-05-2005, 05:42 AM   #4332
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Hi guys, I had a chance to run my RRR for the very first time yesterday, but the results ain’t that good, which I believe was due to the settings. Need some enlightenments…

1) I run the car on a very technical cement carpark track, and I found the car very loose at the rear off-power. A slightly more input on the steering will cause the rear to break out, and the car felt very nervous (talking about off-power). Was running one-way, 4k rear diff oil, tried position 3 and 4 for the rear shocks (no help), long black spring up front and long gold spring on the rear, both ends with antiroll bar with the front set at “—“. I'm using foams, tyres are of no issue as I'm using the right shore for the track. Any recommendations to rectify the problem?

2) When should I be using thick/thin diff oil? And their effects? What are the recommended diff oil to experiment/stock up? I was thinking of getting 5k, 10k, 20, and 30k.

3) I found that (by feeling… ) the SHORT BLACK spring is STIFFER than the LONG GOLD spring, hence the use of the long gold spring at the rear for my setup. Is the shorter black really stiffer than the long gold just to make sure?

4) Question on radio…I got to know that we can’t use analog servos on 3PK with HRS. How about the Helios HSR? I’ve seen people using analog servos on MARS R with Super High Speed Response system…but is it ok to use the analog servos with the Helios HSR?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-05-2005, 07:39 AM   #4333
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I don't normally go underneath 10000 wt diff oil with a one-way equiped car. I ran 20000 wt normally but am going back to 30000 when I decide to race touring again. A lighter diff oil will take away onpower steering while giving more stability in low traction conditions (I also believe it will give you more offpower steering as well, which really isn't needed with a front one-way).

You might want to turn the amount of steering throw down on your transmitter. It should be set (either by subtrim or by steering dual rate) to allow you to go around the narrowest turn on the track but not much more. This will do two things for you. 1. It won't allow your rear end to swing on you because the front end is turning just as hard. 2. More importantly, it will give more cornering speed by not allowing your tires to scrub speed away from the car.

The Helios Advanced High speed is meant to be used with 2 digital servos, the Super High speed you can use 1 digital and 1 good analog, Normal is for everything else. That being said, I was using the Advanced setting with a digital servo (Futaba 9451) for steering and an analog (Futaba 3010) fior throttle. If you use the Advanced setting like this, watch your analog servo closely (watch for heat and any other weird behavior).
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Old 12-05-2005, 05:09 PM   #4334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell
Dont bother, wire straight into the reciever, switches are just one more thing that can go wrong....

Only if your a donkey.

Ive never had a problem with the switch on my v1RRR, and find it MUCH better than pulling a connector in and out all the time.

I can post some pics of the wiring job if people would like to see, turns out much neater with the switch.
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Old 12-05-2005, 10:44 PM   #4335
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yeh pics would be great thanks
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