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Old 11-30-2005, 11:04 PM   #4306
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dodo, Timox, BrainTeased, Racing4Evo, thanks a lot for you guys' inputs, appreciate it. You guys are right, it's all about getting the right tool for the right job. Bizzarre is that 3 out of 3 philps screwdrivers I had in my rc toolbox did not do the job well, and was I laughing when I looked into my dad's old toolbox yesterday night, found and fetched out a philips screwdriver, and it does the job WAY better than the rc tools i had! And that driver only cost less than 1USD!
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Old 12-01-2005, 12:04 AM   #4307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
dodo, Timox, BrainTeased, Racing4Evo, thanks a lot for you guys' inputs, appreciate it. You guys are right, it's all about getting the right tool for the right job. Bizzarre is that 3 out of 3 philps screwdrivers I had in my rc toolbox did not do the job well, and was I laughing when I looked into my dad's old toolbox yesterday night, found and fetched out a philips screwdriver, and it does the job WAY better than the rc tools i had! And that driver only cost less than 1USD!
see.... good that you haven't spent money on HUDY tools... now you have more to spent on other parts...
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Old 12-01-2005, 03:35 AM   #4308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Randy, other than the rear shock tower, I'd order some rear uprights, rear arms, hinge pins, belts and gears. If you are building the car, I would also strongly recommend that you use the evolva harden pivot balls (may already been included in the WC). They weight the same but much tougher than the stock ones.
hi Jeff are the evolva harden pivot balls the black coated ones?
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Old 12-01-2005, 04:44 AM   #4309
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I would recommend the kyosho tools. Since I bought them I did not destroy or have problem with any screw. Expensive though. What you really need for RRR is philips +1 and +2, hex 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5. All the rest type of screws do not request this high quality tools. They cost about $20-$30 each, so about $150 all together. Their code starts with the ykw, i.e. ykw006.
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:09 AM   #4310
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...there are more advice I need from you guys... The deal I had is quite a good one, it's a WCE which the owner had already further upgraded it with Boca ceramic bearings.

That aside...I had already did a search in this thread about the springs...the shorter, less coil spring is stiffer (which is to be used on the front as stated in the manual), while the longer more coil (softer) to be used on the rear...correct me if I'm wrong? I'm thinking...could I use the SHORTER for the REAR and the LONGER for the FRONT? My concern is that besides the INTENDED difference in spring stiffness by using the LONGER one for FRONT and SHORTER for the REAR, are there any other effects of doing that?

Another thing, just to make sure...(as this is quite a whole new area for me to explore jumping from a simple shaft driven car to a much more complicated belt car... )...I already have a diff housing and the solid adapter, what else do I need to have a front solid? Is a diff joint all I need? Any other that I need? Screws? Nuts? Pins? Thanks again!
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:15 AM   #4311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etgdpu
I would recommend the kyosho tools. Since I bought them I did not destroy or have problem with any screw. Expensive though. What you really need for RRR is philips +1 and +2, hex 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5. All the rest type of screws do not request this high quality tools. They cost about $20-$30 each, so about $150 all together. Their code starts with the ykw, i.e. ykw006.
Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:40 AM   #4312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
hi Jeff are the evolva harden pivot balls the black coated ones?
Yes. They are fantastic and they never break. I've had the regular ones bend or break all together on my FW05RR and RRR. Once I swithed to the black one I haven't had one problem yet.
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:33 PM   #4313
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[QUOTE=tommi

Another thing, just to make sure...(as this is quite a whole new area for me to explore jumping from a simple shaft driven car to a much more complicated belt car... )...I already have a diff housing and the solid adapter, what else do I need to have a front solid? Is a diff joint all I need? Any other that I need? Screws? Nuts? Pins? Thanks again! [/QUOTE]
If youre going to run a solid front diff....i`d highly recommend getting the 3-Racing solid axle adaptor....its aluminium and wont strip like the plastic one thats included with the kit.
You`ll need a pulley to fit the front solid....its the same as the one on the front one way, but its fitted with out the side glued on (this allows clearance).
You`ll also need the screws to hold the diff casing together, and spacers for the servo saver to allow the diff to clear it.
Cheers
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:54 PM   #4314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Yes. They are fantastic and they never break. I've had the regular ones bend or break all together on my FW05RR and RRR. Once I swithed to the black one I haven't had one problem yet.
Agreed, the black ones are indestructible from my experience.
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:23 PM   #4315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Yes. They are fantastic and they never break. I've had the regular ones bend or break all together on my FW05RR and RRR. Once I swithed to the black one I haven't had one problem yet.
Can you plz provide the part number ? thx a lot
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:30 PM   #4316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverM3
Can you plz provide the part number ? thx a lot
i think it's fm337
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:32 PM   #4317
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i tried couple shops and cannot seem to fm337.
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Old 12-01-2005, 09:57 PM   #4318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverM3
i tried couple shops and cannot seem to fm337.
hmm strange... but pretty sure it's the correct product code....
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:21 PM   #4319
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It is FM337
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:55 PM   #4320
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Who make's good aftermarket wheel hex's for the RRR with 1 to 2mm offset's?
i would like to get some for the rear wheels.
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