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Old 11-30-2005, 03:22 AM   #4291
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Originally Posted by tommi
Hi guys, need some advice here. I just got my WCE RRR from a local racer. Have been running the NTC3 for 2-3 years, I've to admit it was quite a leap for me to own this baby, it's soooo much complicated than the NTC3, looking forward to a pleasant experience with the RRR.

However, I find it a bltch to wrench with the philips head screws. I was wondering, was it me or was it because of the screws? I was using a Mugen philips screwdriver, but those screws are making me go nuts...and I'm thinking, should I get a screwdriver of "ultimatest quality" - HUDY, or I'm thinking of changing all the screws into hex screws/allen (possible to do so?)? Need advice! Thanks heaps!
would be nice if you can get hex screws, and upgrade it to Titanium ones

anyway, mugen tools should be quite good, if you don't find it comfortable using philips head, then i suggest you change it to hex screws. buying hudy tools won't help much if you hate philips head screw in the first place.

my 2 cents
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:48 AM   #4292
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Well i like philips head screws better than hex head..... I just use any good screw driver from the local hardware store of the right size and works fine for me I find hex heads strip out the head too easy ( the small ones anyway).

But i think the main thing is to get the right size driver. Doesn't matter about quality of the driver. Get the size right and you will be laughing
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Old 11-30-2005, 05:42 AM   #4293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Hi guys, need some advice here. I just got my WCE RRR from a local racer. Have been running the NTC3 for 2-3 years, I've to admit it was quite a leap for me to own this baby, it's soooo much complicated than the NTC3, looking forward to a pleasant experience with the RRR.

However, I find it a bltch to wrench with the philips head screws. I was wondering, was it me or was it because of the screws? I was using a Mugen philips screwdriver, but those screws are making me go nuts...and I'm thinking, should I get a screwdriver of "ultimatest quality" - HUDY, or I'm thinking of changing all the screws into hex screws/allen (possible to do so?)? Need advice! Thanks heaps!
i know exactly how you feel! as sometimes with philips head screws you have to really apply alot of pressure. where as hex screws you can just put it in place and turn.

but if you want to make life easy with philips head screws go buy yourself a cordless screwdriver! it will make life alot easier with screwing screws in and unscrewing them out!

if you worried about the torque that these units apply to the screws you could try and find those hobby type ones that are only operated at 3.6 volts not the standard trade type which are operated at 12-14 volts and in some cases they can come in 24 volts.

hope that helps
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Old 11-30-2005, 05:43 AM   #4294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
The front diff uses the same size pulley as the one way.....you dont however glue the side to the pulley on the diff (as is required for the one way) or else the diff wont have enough clearance to fit.
VZ203 is the part number for the Pulley Set...... its probably easier to get a new pulley than to try and force the side off the one way pulley.
Cheers

AndyT: Thank you... I have always found the support for Kyosho to be good on R/C-Tech, shame the same couldn't be said about Dawn Trading

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Old 11-30-2005, 06:29 AM   #4295
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Originally Posted by mgtman
i should be done building it very soon ,just the holidays got me backed up a little ,got to tend to the wify a little ,some of you know what i mean. just bought the os tz 5 port, 2 3305 servos a vantage pipe and getting a pro paint job done as we speak so im figuring maybe by this thursday or earlier ill have it done and will post some pics .thought of a lot of cars but since im a big kyosho fan had to stick with this one and now they came out with the wc kit so i nabbed it and my sp2 cost me well over 2g here she is and both cars are going to be strickly for the track (been racing for years ) and are going to be shelf queens till april got my bashers anyway
I have seen your 777 somewhere......I wonder where.
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:51 AM   #4296
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What's up guys, I'm just wondering if any parts on the RRR are more prone to breakage than others?
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:04 AM   #4297
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
What's up guys, I'm just wondering if any parts on the RRR are more prone to breakage than others?
What's up Randy--are you going to get a nitro car? Hope to see you at Revelation or Crystal Park.

The only part that is relatively weak is the rear shock tower. It can break in a roll over accident. You can get a Skyline one that is thicker (4mm) and it will never break again.

Skyline web site is:
http://www.skylinercracing.com/
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:24 AM   #4298
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I gotta stick with Kyosho stuff for now, but I'll be sure to order a few of them, thanks Jeffrey.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:40 AM   #4299
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I gotta stick with Kyosho stuff for now, but I'll be sure to order a few of them, thanks Jeffrey.
Did you get a ride with Kyosho? Come out to Revelation next Sunday (12/11) if you can, I will be there.
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Old 11-30-2005, 10:19 AM   #4300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Hi guys, need some advice here. I just got my WCE RRR from a local racer. Have been running the NTC3 for 2-3 years, I've to admit it was quite a leap for me to own this baby, it's soooo much complicated than the NTC3, looking forward to a pleasant experience with the RRR.

However, I find it a bltch to wrench with the philips head screws. I was wondering, was it me or was it because of the screws? I was using a Mugen philips screwdriver, but those screws are making me go nuts...and I'm thinking, should I get a screwdriver of "ultimatest quality" - HUDY, or I'm thinking of changing all the screws into hex screws/allen (possible to do so?)? Need advice! Thanks heaps!

A lot of people have problems with the phillips screws because they don't fit properly into the screw head. Even though you may get the screw out, if it requires a lot of force then the screwdriver is the wrong size. Take one of the screws with you to the hardware store or walmart and find the right screwdriver. The correct size won't have any slope, and wrenching on your car will be a breeze afterwards. The Hudy screwdriver is really nice and fits perfectly as well.
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:21 PM   #4301
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Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Did you get a ride with Kyosho? Come out to Revelation next Sunday (12/11) if you can, I will be there.
No, just was wondering what parts to order is all..
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:41 PM   #4302
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
No, just was wondering what parts to order is all..
The car's tough as a TANK! I still crash, every now and then, and the few crashes I've had would easily render others car completely in-operative (I drive extremely fast! ). I went almost an entire season before breaking one steering knuckle and one front suspension arm. I didn't even notice the breaks while I was driving! Pretty good, huh? Just get the basics: steering knuckles, suspensions arms, hinge pins, bumper parts and body posts. Throw in some spare belts for good measures. You don't need much, at all.
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Old 11-30-2005, 01:23 PM   #4303
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Randy, other than the rear shock tower, I'd order some rear uprights, rear arms, hinge pins, belts and gears. If you are building the car, I would also strongly recommend that you use the evolva harden pivot balls (may already been included in the WC). They weight the same but much tougher than the stock ones.
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:11 PM   #4304
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Spare belts, spur gears, arms, and hinge pins are handy to have
I also keep a spare thrust bearing.
Cheers
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:00 PM   #4305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
No, just was wondering what parts to order is all..
randy
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Last edited by Gearhead3; 12-06-2005 at 08:19 PM.
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