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Old 10-16-2005, 10:00 PM   #4066
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I did this mod on my 710 when I had it, it's certainly worth doing as you only need some caster clips to take it back to standard length wheelbase.
Ill give it a try and let you know how it goes. how far back to you think i should make it i thought 2mm. What about the Caster? Wouldnt moving the bottom arms backwards wouldnt it move the castor foward or do you think i should modify the top arms to give me the caster back or just modify the bottom arms?
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Old 10-17-2005, 01:31 AM   #4067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfritz
. does any body make a after market pinion wrench?
The Mugen pinion tools will work fine with the RRR pinions
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Old 10-17-2005, 01:41 AM   #4068
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Originally Posted by Dynamite

your two speed shifting depends on how you have adjusted your 2 speed cam... manual says tighten then undo 4 turns from memory, i found 4 and quatre to 4 and half works fine for me remember to adjust both screws in cam the same! you dont really want your car shifting through technical parts straights would be fine, do you have a picture of your track?

:
Two speed shift point will also be dependent on how tight/loose you have set the setscrews in the 2-speed shoes.
Tightening them will force the 2 speed shoes outwards and alter the number of turns needed on the adjuster screws to get the desired shift point.
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Old 10-17-2005, 05:46 PM   #4069
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Originally Posted by Dynamite
when you say oil, i take it you mean shock oil? i'm running 30~40 weight oil, actually got 35 in atm to try it, but havent tested it yet as i'm waiting for some rods for my mega ... before i can do anything. i also generally run the silver springs front and rear - still got to get some more springs to test them out i think the lighter springs again will be a huge improvment on smaller tracks electric sized tracks.

your two speed shifting depends on how you have adjusted your 2 speed cam... manual says tighten then undo 4 turns from memory, i found 4 and quatre to 4 and half works fine for me remember to adjust both screws in cam the same! you dont really want your car shifting through technical parts straights would be fine, do you have a picture of your track?

yeah, that gearing is the standard gearing. it works fine, seems to be a good trade off of bottom end to mid range speed for electric sized tracks, my mega motor also runs around 80~90 degrees 'c
Dynamite......

By oil i meant the diff oil in the rear which was leaking and i did not change it or refill the rear diff... this was mentioned in my earlier post.....i guess. so i cont. from there... anyways thanks for all the help.

Its the same track that was used for the 5th Kyosho WC here in dubai...cut copy the link below to view the pictures..and more.

http://www.dubairchobbies.org/kwc_20...irchobbies.htm
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Old 10-17-2005, 05:48 PM   #4070
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http://www.dubairchobbies.org/DSC04390.JPG
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Old 10-17-2005, 05:54 PM   #4071
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Originally Posted by jeffreylin
You need to richen more than 1/4 in the top at night. Generally during the night time the air is cooler and thicker and you must run richer.
Jeff......

Our temps that night were 35C and i was drenched totally......i guess it was humid..... and i used 20% nitro cool power only.

But I think you might be right coz the last time i ran that car it was at the parkin lot and i tuned it @ morning around 7am........

I am going this thursday again so might get to work on tuning it again for the night.
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Old 10-17-2005, 07:39 PM   #4072
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can anyone help me with this i put new shafts in the front of my 3r because i am using my dif but in the pack of cvds there are 2 spacers i put them in than i put the pin in than i put the hex on but the only problem is that it seems like the wheel stick out further in the front (width) is that normal or is it that those shaft goes in the back or are front and back are the same i drove the car with them in the front but i had to cut out my wheel hole a little bigger so is there a certain shaft i have to get for the front
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:13 PM   #4073
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You have been given the wrong ones. The drive shafts that you are trying to put in the front of the car are the rear ones that are off set to run the wde rear foams tires. Put the shaftes in the rear and the spacer that came with them goes between the pin for the hex and the outside bearing of the hub. You will have to realign all your camber and everything on the rear now but this will help have clearence for the foam tires on the rear.
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Old 10-17-2005, 09:43 PM   #4074
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Can anyone tell me how to put the front diff together on the rrr? I have a pretty good idea on how it goes but i just want to make sure i got it right, i don't want to stuff it up and have to do it again.

I have all the parts i need and it looks like it pretty much goes together like the rear but its better to be safe than sorry.
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Old 10-18-2005, 05:36 AM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KellettsHobbies
Can anyone tell me how to put the front diff together on the rrr? I have a pretty good idea on how it goes but i just want to make sure i got it right, i don't want to stuff it up and have to do it again.

I have all the parts i need and it looks like it pretty much goes together like the rear but its better to be safe than sorry.
yes, build same as rear diff, only don't use the side on the front diff pulley like on the oneway gear.
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:10 AM   #4076
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Default red clutch shoe ??

hey guys
can someone give me some information regarding the red kyosho clutch shoe ?

what types of tracks would suit the red clutch shoe ?

thanks
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:39 AM   #4077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
hey guys
can someone give me some information regarding the red kyosho clutch shoe ?

what types of tracks would suit the red clutch shoe ?

thanks
I believe the red clutch shoe engages harder. You would use them for high bite / traction tracks. The harder clutch shoe gives greater snap off the line.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:56 AM   #4078
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Actually I think it is the other way. The red shoe is for slick tracks. I have tried it and atleast for me it slips too much even on meduim tracks. Might be good for rubber tires.......in the rain....ha. I think it is listed as "for mild shifting" in the Kyosho docs.
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Old 10-19-2005, 10:12 AM   #4079
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Originally Posted by jeff whiting
Actually I think it is the other way. The red shoe is for slick tracks. I have tried it and atleast for me it slips too much even on meduim tracks. Might be good for rubber tires.......in the rain....ha. I think it is listed as "for mild shifting" in the Kyosho docs.
Yeah.. I wasn't too certain which it was for, but the harder shoe gives greater snap.
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Old 10-19-2005, 12:58 PM   #4080
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Is there a v1rrr WC2 version?? I read this on 3hobby.net. thx.
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