Kyosho v-one rrr

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Old 10-01-2005, 03:30 PM
  #3976  
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Originally Posted by spookyeng
I just bought a V-one RRR wc edition and was wondering how the 3-racing aftermarket parts are on quality and fit? There are some products from 3-racing that I am interested in, but wanted to get opinions on the products before I spend the money. I am looking at getting all the pulleys in alluminum.
Any other recommendations for aftermarket parts or stock Kyosho parts would be greatly appreciated. I have been out of On-road for awhile and previously raced a Nitro TC3. Thanks in advance for any inputs. Take it easy.
The WC edition is pretty good out of the box. I added an Indo Phenolic Brake Disc from Avidrc. Its more resistance to fading than the stock brake disc. Pdub makes a nice foam bumper thats a lot stiffer than the stock foam. Kawahara makes a nice aluminum brake arm. If you want to run a locked front diff, 3racings aluminum insert wont strip like the plastic one.
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Old 10-02-2005, 06:49 AM
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Hi guys,

Just to confirm on what i need to buy to make a front diff.

1. Differential joint (19) vz218
2. Bevel Shaft BS107
3. Differential gear set vz012
4. pully set vz203
5. differenntial pully set vz204

These parts are listed in the the manual however I believe I do have some of the parts as spares. Could u guys let me know what parts I need to buy.

and do u guys recommend updating the suspension shaft to the titanium ones?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:36 PM
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Default front spool

Ok, I have read through the post, and can not find what I was looking for any ways, I did read at one time on this thread there was a aluminuim adapter to put in the front diff to make a spool, i thing 3r racing makes the part, does any body have a part number?
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Old 10-02-2005, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by drfritz
Ok, I have read through the post, and can not find what I was looking for any ways, I did read at one time on this thread there was a aluminuim adapter to put in the front diff to make a spool, i thing 3r racing makes the part, does any body have a part number?
Part number is V3R-005. I bought one from rc-toro.com.
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pme
Problem #1 : My friend hit me and my dogbone pop-out. according to the manual, put 1 o0ring in the outdrive. is it enough? or do i nedd to place fuel lines/hose to the outdrive? pls help.
The Kyosho or 3-Racing front swingshafts should help with this problem.
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger266
Hi guys,

Just to confirm on what i need to buy to make a front diff.

1. Differential joint (19) vz218
2. Bevel Shaft BS107
3. Differential gear set vz012
4. pully set vz203
5. differenntial pully set vz204

These parts are listed in the the manual however I believe I do have some of the parts as spares. Could u guys let me know what parts I need to buy.

and do u guys recommend updating the suspension shaft to the titanium ones?

Thanks
You`ll need the screws to assemble the diff cases, and from memory you`ll also need shims and diff case seal.
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:46 PM
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Default setup

just finished building the car last week. i took the car out for the first time this past saturday. i was wondering if anyone had any setup suggestions for a tight track??? her is a pic of the completed car.....thanks in advance!!!
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:20 AM
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Default Loose rear end

I ve been using RRR since it came out and my setting is pretty much the stock setting except I m using front diff and lowest hole for the rear arm roll center adjustment. And all these while I just raced it in a tight parking lot track however recently I raced it at a permanent big track with long sweeper and I noticed the rear end is very nervous during the high speed sweeper as well as in a chicane. I m using a one way set up for the big track and tried different tyre combination however this doesn't solve the loose rear end problem completly. At the moment I m using 40 F and 37 R which I think only reduces a bit of my problem. Can someone help me with this? Any suggention on set up? Will using front spool solve this?
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:24 AM
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Increase the toe in to 4 deg.

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Old 10-03-2005, 03:36 PM
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Try running the front anti-roll bar in a more vertical position.....this should help tame the nervousness of the rear.
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:24 PM
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personnally i think you never need too run a oneway in the rrr, just done a national in the uk, its pretty much the fastest flowing track in the uk, you look at the track and think deffinetly use the oneway, but the solid axle was so much better.
i'm also finding the car is at its fastest when the tyres have worn too a 1mm split (using 23t pulley) instead of the recommended 2mm, anyone else found this
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:52 PM
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Hi Jas1,

What to you need to make the one-way to a solid. Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2005, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jas1
i'm also finding the car is at its fastest when the tyres have worn too a 1mm split (using 23t pulley) instead of the recommended 2mm, anyone else found this
Oddly enough the fastest lap times i was getting at my local track were achieved using no split.....58mm on all four wheels.
Running the 2mm split i cant get anywhere near the fastest lap times i achieved with a zero split
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Old 10-04-2005, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyT
Oddly enough the fastest lap times i was getting at my local track were achieved using no split.....58mm on all four wheels.
Running the 2mm split i cant get anywhere near the fastest lap times i achieved with a zero split
Hi,
The car is more front driven. Therefore, easier to drive but generally slower. Your belts also suffer.
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Old 10-04-2005, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jas1
personnally i think you never need too run a oneway in the rrr, just done a national in the uk, its pretty much the fastest flowing track in the uk, you look at the track and think deffinetly use the oneway, but the solid axle was so much better.
i'm also finding the car is at its fastest when the tyres have worn too a 1mm split (using 23t pulley) instead of the recommended 2mm, anyone else found this
I dont like the understear you get with the solid. I used the one way at Tibby and found the steering much better. My F final result didnt really prove the theory though!! LOL

The 1mm split seems to work well with me. I start off with 2mm and it seems to improve after 8 laps or so, i thought it was just me waking up halfway through the race!

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