pme

ok thank you.. i am also experiencing clutch problem. can anyone help me out? my kit is new, and i already assembled the centax. all parts isset but, when i am locking the allen screw (last thing to screw) the clutch bell will not rotate free. instead when i rotate the clutch bell, the flywheel also rotates together with the clutch bell. i already set the the nut above the spring, the bearing was in place, the 2 shims are there and under the shims, are the bearing (sandwich by spacer of housing for the bearing.

jeff whiting

iTrader: (9)

PME, your clutch problem is a common one. What I do is put a few shims between the inside clutch bearing and the threaded part of the crank shaft. That will take care of your problem.

JEFF

jeffreylin

No problem. If it really bothers you you can get the optional side plate and that will push the belt away from the manifold.

jeffreylin

There are 2 settings, one is clutch nut which is the 1.25 you are referring to. But just as important is the gap between the clutch bell and the clutch. It should be about 0.4mm. If it's too much the clutch won't engage and your clutch weights might come out.

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Does anyone have any good setups the the v one rrr with a front diff. We run on tighter tracks here and most are in parking lots with a lot of hairpins.

Data

guys:

if you found the rear outdrives and dog bones wears out faster than you would like on the RRR, this mod might help.

make two spacers (0.380" O.D. X 0.157" I.D. X 0.290" H), get a set of mugen outdrives and put the diff. together as shown. i use EVO rear dog bones instead of the mugen one becasue mugen's might be a bit too long. i ran the car for 3 days and the wear on the rear outdrive is much much better.

just got a steel first pinon from master ken, so i don't have to change 1st pinion every two weeks.

the only thing left is to make the roll center blocks last a little longer.

data

B4

iTrader: (1)

As mentioned by others you could buy the optional side plate which is from the wce model of the RRR, this will move the belt tensioner towards the back of the car giving additional clearance to the manifold.

An alternative is to just make your own, it's very easy I just used a piece of carbon fibre I had and it's as good if not better than the one from Kyosho.

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Does anyone know whether Kyosho makes an offset to that I can run 0mm wheels on the back of my V One RRR WCE. I want to run TRC tires abut can't get them in 2mm offset.

I am afraid of just putting a 2mm spacer on the hex because of strippng the hex in the wheel out.

Mie3R

iTrader: (9)

U should put the 2mm offset b4 the hex.

jas1

you need to use the standard rear stub axles, then you can fit the 2mm spacer between bearing and hex to use 0mm offset, part no. vz081 i think

fpart

iTrader: (41)

Thanks I'll try it.

chumanji

Someone offer me a V-One RRR #31256B for $320. Brand new still in box. Is this a good price?

And does anyone know where I can pick up another clutch assembly for the V1RRR. I would perfer online store...if any.

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

That is a good price, i use to see them at $360 and up. triple R's are hard to find also, So pick it up! hope this help's. C.

Tim Johnson

That is a good price. you can get the parts you need at ultimate hobbies. Give them a call, and they can ship it out to you....

Get your pre orders in quick for the V-OneRRR WC edition. The WC is a limited production model. there will be one more batch shipped out at the end of november, and that will be the end of the WC edition. But don't worry, yoiu can stll get the normal V-OneRRR. the only major differences between the WC and the non WC are 12 kyosho option parts, which will still be available even after the WC's are gone.

silverM3

iTrader: (1)

I think rc-toro.com sells clutch assembly. Their price is slightly better than ultimate hobby. But, sometimes, they are out of stock in v1rrr parts.