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Old 08-27-2005, 08:40 AM   #3736
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Originally Posted by mrgsr
hey team
upgrading from the fw-05rr to the v one rrr is a dream come true

the car was sooo nice to drive i loved it.

however the only way i could get it to stop sliding out on power was to have -4 toe in at the rear, i know this sounds excessive and yeh its robbing my top end and tire wear. im using the stock setup with 37 shore tyres on a medium grip parking lot track.

can some one please recommend some other things i can try with my toe in at a reasonable amount like -2 ??

maybe i should swap the springs around and go a softer rear ?

thanks
JOhn
what rear diff oil are you running, if its around 30,000 its probably to heavy, give 10,000 a try
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:49 AM   #3737
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Originally Posted by ziggy12345
A normal one way will spin the wheels at the same speed on power as well. If the axles are locked it will add turn braking on corner entry same as a locked diff but will have the disadvantage of no brakes!

I cant see the point.

The guys here take a normal one way tube and lock the drives in like a locked diff but its half the weight.
i think these solid one ways are something that electric cars have been trying, when using just solid axle especially when your tyre splits change you get drag on your transmission front to rear, so using a solid oneway you should get better aceleration and top speed, but will corner the same as normal solid, the only downside is like you say you loose your brakes
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Old 08-27-2005, 06:32 PM   #3738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynamite
also regarding your shock end cups, i fairly sure i used the medium sized ones front and rear, built them to std specs and havent had a problem... hope this helps.
Thanks dynamite, i built my shocks as the instruction say to use 4.8mm ball end (short) according to the manual page 12 & 19. Since you use medium ball end and had no problem with it, i think i'm gonna go with medium ball end too.
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Old 08-27-2005, 07:19 PM   #3739
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thanks for the help

dynamite i noticed your in nsw, ever raced at eastern creek ?

this is where i was having these problems.
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:42 PM   #3740
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Eastern Creek can be quite challenging to find a good consistent setup due to the dust and dirt etc that ends up on the track and the varying temperatures between the heats (mid afternoon can be warmish) to the finals (cool evening).
I raced there a couple of weeks and started out with a setup that had served me really well in previous weeks (mid 15`s to low 16`s lap times)...this exact same setup on this particular race week was struggling to get hi 16`s as a fastest lap and the rear was very loose on-power........anyway after fitting 35 shores (was using 40`s prior to this) to the rear all was solved and lap times returned back to normal
I find -3 deg camber rear & 3 deg toe-in rear usually works fine at EC.
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:46 PM   #3741
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thanks andyt
i started with the stock setup and the 35s were working for about 5 laps then they just overheated and i had no grip.

swapped to 37s arpund and the car was great mid to high 15s laps but i was backing off and taking the corners really slow.

the rear is on -3 camber and -4 toe in which surely cant be good for the tyres. do you think swapping the springs around will work ?

i did this when racing the fw and it was great
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:00 PM   #3742
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It certainly wouldnt hurt to try the spring setup as you mentioned.......I`d be inclined though to change the rear upper shock mount holes first to a lower position and see if that helps bring rear grip up a bit higher....you could also try a little less rear droop.
What ride heights were you running?
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:35 PM   #3743
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5.5mm around
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Old 08-27-2005, 10:10 PM   #3744
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Default mrgsr

hey i run 2% toeout in frt ,3 camber ,4toe in this is how josh cyrul ,runs his car.tire wear was really good for me here in fla.our tracks are pretty smooth.
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:29 AM   #3745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
thanks for the help

dynamite i noticed your in nsw, ever raced at eastern creek ?

this is where i was having these problems.
hey mrgsr.

nah, never ran nitro tourer at ec, ran electric there at few big meetings in the past but... was heading down for the serpent grand prix but work got in the way only ever ran nitro in sydney at moorebank for nsw titles this year so far.
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Old 08-29-2005, 01:31 AM   #3746
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Anyone have problems with the wce wheel hex's rounding off? Which aftermarket one's do you suggest?
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:50 AM   #3747
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Is anyone experiencing problem with second gear spurs shearing all the teeth off. I wend through two on the weekend and can only assume from my checking that the enginne is moving slightly. I checked thoroughly at the start of the day and the gear mesh was perfect and all mounting hardware was tight. I hate the screws tha Kyosho use to fasten the engine mount to the chassis, Kyosho have been doing this for long enough now that they should be able to come up with a better method.
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:46 AM   #3748
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Default hello team

i want to know how can i get the most steering out of my car for some really small tracks right now i have the locker in my front diff with the number 10 steering acer in is there anything else that i need to do to get more steering
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:45 PM   #3749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deviltires
i want to know how can i get the most steering out of my car for some really small tracks right now i have the locker in my front diff with the number 10 steering acer in is there anything else that i need to do to get more steering
U CAN MOVE ALL THE CASTER TO THE FRONT UPPER ARM
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Old 08-29-2005, 10:49 PM   #3750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4
Is anyone experiencing problem with second gear spurs shearing all the teeth off. I wend through two on the weekend and can only assume from my checking that the enginne is moving slightly. I checked thoroughly at the start of the day and the gear mesh was perfect and all mounting hardware was tight. I hate the screws tha Kyosho use to fasten the engine mount to the chassis, Kyosho have been doing this for long enough now that they should be able to come up with a better method.
check your centax clutch spring. dont tightened too hard. another thing is to make sure your 2nd speed engagement is smooth(no knocking sound while engage).
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