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Old 08-13-2005, 03:14 AM   #3616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
A solid will give a quicker turn in and more on power steering but it will make the rear a little loose.
A diff will keep more grip in the rear but you will not have as much front end turn.
I use the TCD in the rear diff (reduces power on spin outs) and 50k in the front diff but my track is mostly sweeping corners.
Will the stock springs be ok or should i get black's for the rear? Once again thank's Nimo.
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:31 PM   #3617
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Default new guy

i just bought a:
rrr wc serio, futaba
pro spec nova, futaba
and reading what you guys are talking about, " i'm gunna have some questions! " istill have to build them, i need to get the recievers, liquids, and maybe a couple of upgrades if you guys know anything i should do right out of the box? thanks
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:57 PM   #3618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Will the stock springs be ok or should i get black's for the rear? Once again thank's Nimo.
Not really tried a Rubber set up on the RRR, but on the FW05 I went much softer on the springs, on that I actually use the Orange and Yellow springs from the Kyosho Pure10 Mk2.
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Old 08-13-2005, 10:40 PM   #3619
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Default 1/10 Outlaw (200mm) changes needed!!

OK! I will be attending the 2005 Fuel Open Nationals in Kissimmee, FL in November. I want to change a few things to run the Lola or GTP bodies.

Does the Evo RR front bumper and plate work on the RRR?
What changes are needed to do so if you have any!

Also, does the rear floating body mount from the Evo RR work on the RRR?
Any modifications needed to get it to work?

Has any hop-up maker decided to make a conversion kit to change from WCRRR to 1/10 Open RRR?

Thanks!
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:47 AM   #3620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Will the stock springs be ok or should i get black's for the rear? Once again thank's Nimo.
i am currently running rubber in the uk national series, have found a good base set up to start from, give it a try

Front end
5mm ride height
black spring
3x1mm pistons (made out of standard 2x1)
50wt oil
shocker in most upright postion
roll center inserts to top
run as little castor as you can to help on low speed corners
ft diff using mugen super grease (or 100,000 wt at least)
1 deg camber
1 deg toe out

Back end
5.5mm ride height
silver spring (black if you find the rear of car is planted)
4x1mm piston
50wt oil
shocker 2nd hole from top
roll center insert at bottom
then the ball joint on the outside of the camber link turn it over,
the main problem running the rrr on rubber tyres, there is far too much camber change on the rear end, it either burns the inside of the tyre out or simiply the back end breaks away far too easy. next meeting will be trying a longer camber link to see if it helps
rr diff 5,000wt
3 deg toe in per side
1.5 deg camber

give it a try see what you think
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Old 08-14-2005, 12:17 PM   #3621
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After stipping another rear belt yesterday I thought I'd try something different so I set the rear belt tension to tightest and the side belt to 384 (with 24T pulley), Strangely enough the rear end twitching vanished and the car would turn in better.
My best at the track is a 21:307, today I done 21:312 which sounds bad (2 grassy moments), but my nearest rival was on 20:306 and he said the track was slow, so maybe it is better.
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:29 PM   #3622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
After stipping another rear belt yesterday I thought I'd try something different so I set the rear belt tension to tightest and the side belt to 384 (with 24T pulley), Strangely enough the rear end twitching vanished and the car would turn in better.
My best at the track is a 21:307, today I done 21:312 which sounds bad (2 grassy moments), but my nearest rival was on 20:306 and he said the track was slow, so maybe it is better.
Swap the rear belt tentioner left for right. You can tighten the belt more so it wont slip. SP belts stretch more than the kit ones

Cheers
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:40 PM   #3623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
SP belts stretch more than the kit ones

Cheers
That could have been my problem, I was trying to keep them as loose a possible to reduce drag, but the car feels better now and the 384 belt is not tight.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:18 PM   #3624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony750
maybe a couple of upgrades if you guys know anything i should do right out of the box? thanks
-Change the stock brake disc to something like the Kawahara or 3-racing disc.
-Change the stock rear shock tower to something like the Skyline 4mm.
- Fit the Skyline exhaust mount.
Cheers
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Old 08-15-2005, 04:01 AM   #3625
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Default 3D clutch shoe

I'm having trouble getting a clutch shoe replacement for the RRR here locally in Aust. Are there other brands and/or any of the previous model shoes that fit?
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Old 08-15-2005, 05:52 AM   #3626
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Have you tried Rc Addict in Melbourne?, theyre usually good for RRR parts-
www.rcaddict.com.au
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Old 08-15-2005, 03:26 PM   #3627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas1
i am currently running rubber in the uk national series, have found a good base set up to start from, give it a try

Front end
5mm ride height
black spring
3x1mm pistons (made out of standard 2x1)
50wt oil
shocker in most upright postion
roll center inserts to top
run as little castor as you can to help on low speed corners
ft diff using mugen super grease (or 100,000 wt at least)
1 deg camber
1 deg toe out

Back end
5.5mm ride height
silver spring (black if you find the rear of car is planted)
4x1mm piston
50wt oil
shocker 2nd hole from top
roll center insert at bottom
then the ball joint on the outside of the camber link turn it over,
the main problem running the rrr on rubber tyres, there is far too much camber change on the rear end, it either burns the inside of the tyre out or simiply the back end breaks away far too easy. next meeting will be trying a longer camber link to see if it helps
rr diff 5,000wt
3 deg toe in per side
1.5 deg camber

give it a try see what you think
Thank's jas1 Im going to test tommorow.
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:40 AM   #3628
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Would the WC KIT setup with front dif (not one way) be good for a small technical track?

That is front diff with wc kit stock setup.

Tiger
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Old 08-16-2005, 11:48 AM   #3629
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would be ok, but could benefit from using lighter oils in the diff.
Im 10,000 at the rear and 30,000 at the front.
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Old 08-16-2005, 05:44 PM   #3630
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Default got my rrr yesterday ..

bye bye fw 05rr
gonna miss that car but time to try a belt car


so far so good however i hate when the flange balls are tight inside the eyelets. what do you guys do to help free it up ?

thanks
John
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