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Old 08-07-2005, 05:22 PM   #3556
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guys whats the difference between

V-One RRR WC Team Edition
No.31258

and

V-One RRR WC Team Edition
No.31258B
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:24 PM   #3557
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you got me on taht one!
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:55 PM   #3558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
I'm not happy
Ist the NSR driveshaft joint snapped, then next tank the 1st gear stripped, 2 tanks later the 2 gear stripped, then 2 laps later a rear belt stripped taking out the pulley's with it.
This car is starting to get expensive (might have to return to FW05)
The first problem I had with the car was with the engine mount. Engine kept moving. I luckily tried a FT TC3 mount and have not striped a gear in a month.

I have been running the car for a couple of months now but always fall back to my ntc3 which has been the quickest car where we run, so it is hard to give up. Today I started with the ntc3 and my engine finally gave out on the second tank. So,I got a good dose of just the RRR for the rest of the day. I must say, I did have a good time with it. I won my share of heats.

Is anyone using the Kyosho lightweight clutchbell? How about the ti shafts? How do you like them?
thanks
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Old 08-07-2005, 06:07 PM   #3559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junito yukiyu
you got me on taht one!
I went to my local hobby shop held this awesome kit in my hands and looked at the barcode and it had a "B" next to 31258 It was the WC Team Edition by the way
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:03 PM   #3560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
#10 = more steering
#11 = stock setting
#12 = less steering
Thanks. I'll make a note of it.
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:25 PM   #3561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas1
the problem i found with stripping the spur gears is every time its happened and i have replaced them the engine has moved slightly. so i took a chassis to some one with a milling machine and milled the recess out and also the actual hole, and tapped the engine mounts out to M4, now using serpent M4 engine mount screws that use a 2.5mm allen driver. can get a lot more torque on the driver without fear of rounding the bolt off, plus have made it so it has more adjustment. so how fully no more stripped gears.

the car is very expensive to keep well maintained, just had to put about 150 quids worth of bits on mine to make it ready for the euros next week, the car is fast but i dont think i can justify the cost of maintaining it
Gotta thread-lock those screws, guys. On another note, I'm in the mist of re-building my car with new parts for the second half of the outdoor season. To date: I've driven the car bi-weekly (some weekly stints in there ) For four months and have only frayed the side of a belt, bent the sway bar and stripped out a shock end. The car's had some pretty rough crashes, too. I've driven at different tracks with varying degrees of track surface condition and this car sucks up the ill-treatment (holds together) and keeps on marching. I'm spending about $150.00 to replace all the parts (gears, belts, universals, arms, rear hubs, etc.) I'll be rebuilding with and to get a few, that, I didn't have. I don't feel this is a lot for 4 months of hard racing with a nitro car.
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:36 PM   #3562
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what shock oil would you suggest on a loose surface fr/r?
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:49 PM   #3563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Gotta thread-lock those screws, guys. On another note, I'm in the mist of re-building my car with new parts for the second half of the outdoor season. To date: I've driven the car bi-weekly (some weekly stints in there ) For four months and have only frayed the side of a belt, bent the sway bar and stripped out a shock end. The car's had some pretty rough crashes, too. I've driven at different tracks with varying degrees of track surface condition and this car sucks up the ill-treatment (holds together) and keeps on marching. I'm spending about $150.00 to replace all the parts (gears, belts, universals, arms, rear hubs, etc.) I'll be rebuilding with and to get a few, that, I didn't have. I don't feel this is a lot for 4 months of hard racing with a nitro car.
my gripe is the fact i'm having to replace the first gear pioions every 2-3 meetings and the diff out drives and dogbones the same. then there is also the plastic or upgrade alloy brake disc adapter wearing really badly.

know things i'm trying at the mo too help these problems are, firstly kawahara are know doing steel first gear pinions, then the outdrives i have put heat shrink over them and smearing black grease on the dogbones.
and finally i have just come across these brake disc's that may help

Click here
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Old 08-08-2005, 05:03 PM   #3564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
The first problem I had with the car was with the engine mount. Engine kept moving. I luckily tried a FT TC3 mount and have not striped a gear in a month.

Is anyone using the Kyosho lightweight clutchbell? How do you like them?
thanks
I found the stock RRR two piece engine mount when it was on my car tended to move and strip gears ( no matter how much thread lock i used), so i swapped to the 3-Racing one piece mount.....this wasnt really too much better as one of the threads tolerance was slightly out and wouldnt hold the screws properly....again the engine moved slightly and stripped spur gears from time to time.
Anyway, I ended up switching to the Kyosho Shimo one-piece mount a few months ago and havent had any probs since.....it seems like the chassis screws can get a much better hold of the engine mount with this....also make sure you thread lock the top engine mount screws in....these can cause a bit of play in the engine as well.
I`ve got a Kyosho lightweight clutch bell in my spares box but havent had a chance to use it yet......its certainly very lightweight, but is also very open, which may lead to more dirt getting in towards the clutch bearings etc.
Cheers
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:07 PM   #3565
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Andy,
I have the WC edition. I had to cut so much out of the 1 piece to fit my ps12 in it that I made it a 2 piece to save time , to no avail. My tc3 mount works so well I tighten and forget it.

Does anyone know the conversion for the shock oils. I have a ton of different AE weight oils. They come 40 ,50 etc. The kyosho and mugens come 500 600 etc. I remember a few years ago some posted something like this, but I have no idea where it is. Looks like I will be running the RRR for the rest of the year.

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:06 PM   #3566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosfan
what shock oil would you suggest on a loose surface fr/r?
Start with 60 wt. front and 40 wt. rear.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:14 PM   #3567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
I found the stock RRR two piece engine mount when it was on my car tended to move and strip gears ( no matter how much thread lock i used), so i swapped to the 3-Racing one piece mount.....this wasnt really too much better as one of the threads tolerance was slightly out and wouldnt hold the screws properly....again the engine moved slightly and stripped spur gears from time to time.
Anyway, I ended up switching to the Kyosho Shimo one-piece mount a few months ago and havent had any probs since.....it seems like the chassis screws can get a much better hold of the engine mount with this....also make sure you thread lock the top engine mount screws in....these can cause a bit of play in the engine as well.
I`ve got a Kyosho lightweight clutch bell in my spares box but havent had a chance to use it yet......its certainly very lightweight, but is also very open, which may lead to more dirt getting in towards the clutch bearings etc.
Cheers
I'm sorry, I thought you guys were talking about the Kyosho/Shimo one-piece engine mount. I forgot the standard kit doesn't come with it. Now it makes sense. If, you can, make the switch.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:42 PM   #3568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
I`ve got a Kyosho lightweight clutch bell in my spares box but havent had a chance to use it yet......its certainly very lightweight, but is also very open, which may lead to more dirt getting in towards the clutch bearings etc.
Cheers
I've been using the lightweight clutch bells and I've had no problem with dirt/dust getting inside. The only downside is that I could not re-use them as I cannot take pinions off without bending the clutch bell.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:47 PM   #3569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
I found the stock RRR two piece engine mount when it was on my car tended to move and strip gears ( no matter how much thread lock i used), so i swapped to the 3-Racing one piece mount.....this wasnt really too much better as one of the threads tolerance was slightly out and wouldnt hold the screws properly....again the engine moved slightly and stripped spur gears from time to time.
Anyway, I ended up switching to the Kyosho Shimo one-piece mount a few months ago and havent had any probs since.....it seems like the chassis screws can get a much better hold of the engine mount with this....also make sure you thread lock the top engine mount screws in....these can cause a bit of play in the engine as well.
I`ve got a Kyosho lightweight clutch bell in my spares box but havent had a chance to use it yet......its certainly very lightweight, but is also very open, which may lead to more dirt getting in towards the clutch bearings etc.
Cheers
Kyosho shimo one piece mount is expenisve. It is like $30+. Very hard to find also. I tried rc-mushroom. But, it is out of stock now. Where did you get it? thx.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:50 PM   #3570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
Andy,
Does anyone know the conversion for the shock oils. I have a ton of different AE weight oils. They come 40 ,50 etc. The kyosho and mugens come 500 600 etc. I remember a few years ago some posted something like this, but I have no idea where it is. Looks like I will be running the RRR for the rest of the year.

Thanks
There isn't a way to convert the wt numbers to cps numbers as they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. But usually 30wt is close to 400cps and 40wt is close to 500cps etc. The following web page provides more information and explanations:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html
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