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Old 08-03-2005, 03:27 PM   #3496
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Jeff, you are so right. rubber tire's...i guess if i can get used to driving a loose car i can drive better with a tight one...geez i thought thats why i got into 1/8th scale off road. btw I will definately pass on the Hello to Joe from you. C.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:03 PM   #3497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
The rear pully that drives the diff on the brake shaft wears out quick. Replace every 2 meetings or better still replace with metal one (it still wears out!)

The front diff drives undercut if you use the kyosho CVJs. Use the 3 racing oners as they have a bigger dia pin through them. Replace the drives every 3 meetings. The CVJ's also undercut and need replacing. Just check for play

The rear diff drives undercut as above. Replace every 3 meetings

The roll centre inserts wear out every 3 meetings. Replace

The steering balls wear out. Replace with titanium

Change the shock mounting balls for bolts

Cheers
Sheeesh! Are we talking about the same nitro car? What are you doing to that poor, little, dynamo?
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:25 PM   #3498
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I agree with kewdawg, parts do not wear out that quickly. I replace the rear outdrive maybe every 5 races now that use tamiya anti-wear grease. I haven't need to replace the rest of the item ever in ziggy's list.
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:56 AM   #3499
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Ziggy runs at the Ashby track, tight corners, big undulations (about 15ft between highest and lowest points), very bumpy (car airborne most of the time), a real drivers track, but it is heavy on parts with some cars not even lasting a race without breaking.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:01 AM   #3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
Ziggy runs at the Ashby track, tight corners, big undulations (about 15ft between highest and lowest points), very bumpy (car airborne most of the time), a real drivers track, but it is heavy on parts with some cars not even lasting a race without breaking.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
15ft between high and low? Shouldn't a 777 be used instead of a RRR?
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:09 AM   #3501
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Heres the link www.rc-champ.co.jp

They are located in Japan and yeah i can forget all that stuff that was said. I used to go there a lot when i lived in tokyo. I wish i bought it b4 i moved back to australia.
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:31 AM   #3502
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Jeff,

So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:08 AM   #3503
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Default adjusting the centax of the RRR

hi Guys!

I bought the RRR and i have placed the centax screw at 0.1 at yesterday i was at the track to break in the engine after 3 tanks of the ground i tryed to place the car on track,but the car were hardly moving but the engine never got up to 60 c.(i know that that adjustment of the centax is ok if the engine were breaked in but is there any problem if i break in the engine with this kind of sentax?????) i think that i can t make the centax more smooth...is that correct? what do you guys suggest?

THANKS A LOT
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Old 08-04-2005, 09:01 AM   #3504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Jeff,

So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??

Thanks
Well, the rear outdrive would be one. I'd also pick up rear uprights, rear hinge pins, and a skyline rear shock tower. the arms are pretty sturdy but I'd keep a set just in case. the belts do wear out over time but certainly lasts for 3-6 month depending on how much you run your car. the pinions do wear out especially the 1st gear and you should just get the kawahara steel pinion on the outset and not worry about it.
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Old 08-04-2005, 09:24 AM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Sheeesh! Are we talking about the same nitro car? What are you doing to that poor, little, dynamo?
Jas1 also has the same problems, if not worse and he runs at Halifax and Tibshelf. The bits wear out if you drive hard!
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:54 AM   #3506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Jas1 also has the same problems, if not worse and he runs at Halifax and Tibshelf. The bits wear out if you drive hard!
Wow! That's the only way I drive this car! The car loves it!!! (and so do I! ) Its like the car dares you to push it harder! I can't ever remember having such a rush from my other nitro sedans. This car just flat-out performs! What's happening? Are they doing a lot of hard crashing?
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:57 AM   #3507
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rodneybarrett, i sent you a pm.
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:06 PM   #3508
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This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:32 PM   #3509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordman500
This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
A car that actually works on the race track
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:07 PM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordman500
This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
See above^. Seriously, the car is phenomenal! It's lightweight, strong and agile. What more could you ask for? The standard kit usually sells for around $335.00 - I paid 439.00 back in March from rcmushroom. That's only an additional one hundred dollars for all these hop-ups: Front & Rear Universals ($40.00 each.), Carbon F-Shock Stay ($16.00), One-Piece Aluminum Engine Mount ($35.00), Aluminum brake hub ($13.00), FRP Battery Plate ($12.00), FRP Middle Plate ($5.00), Lightweight 1st Gear Housing ($21.00), SP Drive belts (3) (12.00 each), Shielded Bearings (for the steering linkage) ($11.00, $13.00). Even at $480.00, your spending less than you would buying these separately. The best thing is, you'll already have all the components used to win the World Championship (sans the driver ) and place EIGHT spots in the final, for that matter! Hey, listen - I'm definitely not the guy, to promote, spending big money on anything unecessarily but I believe this car is well worth it. Truely a "build and win" touring car.
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