Kyosho v-one rrr

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Old 08-01-2005, 07:08 PM
  #3481  
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Originally Posted by rodneybarrett
anyone know the part number for the fuel tank gaskets (fuel lid o-ring)? I think mine may be leaking.
The Kyosho part number for the fuel tank lid gasket is: 92050-01 Sponge Packing (for fuel tank).
This pack also comes with spare clips for the gasket.
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:50 AM
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Im very convinced to get a V-One-RRR. But i am a bit confused over the foam and rubber tire versions aswell as the WC edition. If i was to get the WC edition would that mean i need to buy the parts in the rubber tires version for it to work well with rubber tires. Im not going to be running foams so i can get rid of that version. Or would it be a better option and get the rubber tire version and ad a few hop ups to it. Also what things should i get when i order it, i want to order it together because lhs's around Sydney are pretty much pathetic with spare parts.
Thanks
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_D
Im very convinced to get a V-One-RRR. But i am a bit confused over the foam and rubber tire versions aswell as the WC edition. If i was to get the WC edition would that mean i need to buy the parts in the rubber tires version for it to work well with rubber tires. Im not going to be running foams so i can get rid of that version. Or would it be a better option and get the rubber tire version and ad a few hop ups to it. Also what things should i get when i order it, i want to order it together because lhs's around Sydney are pretty much pathetic with spare parts.
Thanks
If you get the WC version you would need the VSW007 rear shafts to bring the rear track out to the same as the front, and the parts for the front diff (WC comes with one-way).
Also car set up is different, so you'd need to download a Rubber set up from the Kyosho Japan site.
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:01 AM
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Ok, i think i might just buy the rubber tire spec and ad a few hop ups to bring it around that price. What about stuff that you need to replace soon or often.
Thanks
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_D
Ok, i think i might just buy the rubber tire spec and ad a few hop ups to bring it around that price. What about stuff that you need to replace soon or often.
Thanks
Had a rear drive belt strip, but it had done 3 meetings + practice days, so probably about 18 hours of use.
Nothing else has worn out or broken yet.
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:12 AM
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Special WC Team Edition specification one-piece engine mount
Front / Rear Universal Swing Shaft
Carbon Front Shock Stay
SP Drive Belt F, M, R

Aluminum Brake Hub
FRP Battery Plate
FRP Middle Plate

Racing tires glued and molded onto wheels :
Front (#37) ZERO, Rear (#37)
Lightweight 1st Gear Housing
Aluminum Muffler Stay Holder


These are the things on the WC. Could someone please explain the things in bold. Thanks heaps.
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_D
Special WC Team Edition specification one-piece engine mount
Front / Rear Universal Swing Shaft
Carbon Front Shock Stay
SP Drive Belt F, M, R

Aluminum Brake Hub
FRP Battery Plate
FRP Middle Plate

Racing tires glued and molded onto wheels :
Front (#37) ZERO, Rear (#37)
Lightweight 1st Gear Housing
Aluminum Muffler Stay Holder


These are the things on the WC. Could someone please explain the things in bold. Thanks heaps.
Parts supply in Sydney or Australia for that fact is not a problem, PM me and i will pass on the contact info and you can go from there...

As for your questions:

Front and rear uni's are standard in the worlds kit instead of the conventional dog bones. For me this is not a big performance advantage, some people have had issues with the doggy's popping out but gernerally if the track width is correct its not a problem.

The carbon front shock stay just gives you 1 extra shock mounting hole than std.

The sp belts are low friction rubber belts, these free the car up and are highly recommended. They last longer than the standard belts as well.

The FRP battery plate is simply a stiffer battery plate which holds the reciever pack.

The FRP middle plate moves the belt tensior back so it doesnt rub on the manifold, some manifolds this is an issue others not.

The light weight first gear housing is exactly that, a 1st gear housing that has had excess material removed so its as light as possible which reduces its rotating mass.

Regards

Kyle
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:01 AM
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Ok, now you've explained them i know what most of them are, except they are in fancy terms there. I think ill get those belts, as a spare when the stocks mess up.

Many Thanks to Kyle & Nimo
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_D
Ok, i think i might just buy the rubber tire spec and ad a few hop ups to bring it around that price. What about stuff that you need to replace soon or often.
Thanks
The rear pully that drives the diff on the brake shaft wears out quick. Replace every 2 meetings or better still replace with metal one (it still wears out!)

The front diff drives undercut if you use the kyosho CVJs. Use the 3 racing oners as they have a bigger dia pin through them. Replace the drives every 3 meetings. The CVJ's also undercut and need replacing. Just check for play

The rear diff drives undercut as above. Replace every 3 meetings

The roll centre inserts wear out every 3 meetings. Replace

The steering balls wear out. Replace with titanium

Change the shock mounting balls for bolts

Cheers
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff whiting
Sounds like you will be racing at T&T hobbies in Plano. No setup help from me for concret but say I to Joe for me.

JEFF
When is the race at T & T?
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:17 PM
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They race in the T&T RC parking lot every other weekend. Its on the east side of plano at about Parker and Plano Rd as I remember. I moved from there about seven years ago but used to race with them quite a bit. They race on concrete there. Joe is the owner and they are in the phone book.

JEFF
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:55 PM
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Default short track gearing

Need help with short track gearing,im running the sirio evo3.With stock gearing with this horsepower demon,it just lights up all fours.
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ziggy12345
The rear pully that drives the diff on the brake shaft wears out quick. Replace every 2 meetings or better still replace with metal one (it still wears out!)

The front diff drives undercut if you use the kyosho CVJs. Use the 3 racing oners as they have a bigger dia pin through them. Replace the drives every 3 meetings. The CVJ's also undercut and need replacing. Just check for play

The rear diff drives undercut as above. Replace every 3 meetings

The roll centre inserts wear out every 3 meetings. Replace

The steering balls wear out. Replace with titanium

Change the shock mounting balls for bolts

Cheers
Thanks Heeps!!!

Ill get it in a month or so. Ill order it with a OS 12TZ 5 or 3 port. Probably the 3 port cause RC Champ does a special deal with a pipe. Ill check out those things you mentioned and see what i can do
And again thanks
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Old 08-03-2005, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_D
Thanks Heeps!!!

Ill get it in a month or so. Ill order it with a OS 12TZ 5 or 3 port. Probably the 3 port cause RC Champ does a special deal with a pipe. Ill check out those things you mentioned and see what i can do
And again thanks
No worries, make sure the special deal Champ does includes express parts delivery, you dont want to run out of parts at a race meeting, im sure they will ship direct to the track.. also get them to send you out a setup sheet for Ecreek, Mbank, Lilydale and also Brendale so your on the pace from day one!!

Regards

Kyle
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Old 08-03-2005, 03:11 PM
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what is the web address to rc champ?
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