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Old 10-24-2004, 12:49 PM   #316
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Just fitted the back shock tower....... Held on with 2 small screws and thin as hell!! This wont last 5 mins. How many have people snapped already?

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Old 10-24-2004, 02:37 PM   #317
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345

Do they make CVJ's for this yet? I cant stand dogbones!

Has anybody had any trouble with the rear belt hiting the deck? It almost sticks out below the chasis! (G4!)

Cheers [/B]
Universals are available; vzw054 (front) and vsw007 (rear). I believe they are the same as the fw05r's. Had to chuck a pair of fronts in after about 5 mins of running on mine, after those notorious doggies fell out. me; damn it's pretty tailly. pitt guy; you have no front dog bones. me; that would explain it!:

I havn't had any trouble with the rear belt bottoming out but it does seam to be a bit of a vacuum for debris, ciggie butts and what have you. Finished for one day and the rear diff housing was all melted, looked like a bloody black gobb stopper
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Old 10-24-2004, 06:02 PM   #318
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Default buying rrr in HK

if you buy rrr in hongkong, is the manual english? or japanese?
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:06 PM   #319
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Looks like an aluminum exhaust mount mounted below the radio deck from the looks of Adrien's car.

nice ride D
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:20 PM   #320
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Quote:
Originally posted by suntok2
rcosmax: Do you race in Japan?What are the winning engine in Japan?
I race here but i am only at club level. but the winning engine now is this new sirio engine apparently they will be releasing the new wc sirio edition soon. Other than that it is pretty interchangeable between the nova/rossi and new jp/idm engines. Any of those new nova base engines can win on any day depending on the car and driver. The new NS engines seem to be smoother and more usable than the RR rosis, that is the word at the tracks anyway.
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:36 PM   #321
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I havent been able to find any setup data on the net but this weekend made some changes and it worked very well so here is my setup for those that are interseted.

I dont have a setup sheet here with me at work but i will mention what i can remember. Also, im using tamiya trf flat shock gaskets with a rebound spacer. the kyoshos just leaked and leaked on me.

front
toe out .5
shock oil 350 2 hole piston black shorty spring
shock position lower hole on the stay,
bottom mount stock position(i think). shorty ball end
roll bar flat
droop + 2mm
castor: netral kit setting but with a shaved down clip to take up a bit of the loose play
camber ( i dont know right now but it is .5mm more than the setup sheet)
track width 199mm
height 5mm
one way
overdrive pully(in the kit)
37 shore
61 mm tire
roll center changed to the lowest (a) insert


rear
diff 10000 oil
toe in 1.5
camber (dont know now but .5mm over stock)
roll bar stock black
roll center insert stock
shock: 1 hole piston, 450 oil black long kyo spring, medium ball end. second highet stay mounting position, lower mount stock.
ride height 5.5 mm
droop between 3-4 mm but i change it daily depending on how much traction there is. i set it so that it has the most body roll without traction rolling. (easier on my tires and wallet and faster turn in more traction! best of everything!)
rear width is toooo wide on my car like 204mm! but it seems to be working! (Edit: this width is too wide/illegal and wont make inspections check your rules)
37 shore 32mm wide tire (edit: check max rear tire widths in your rules)
63mm tire

I have heard that some people say this car is a little rear end loose. try 10000 oil in the rear diff. my car stays hooked up in every condition other than full brake max turn full throtle. so there is a setup that will keep the rear hooked up. (also because of the stock front overdrive as your tires get close to an even split the rear end will get loose! so keep the split.

I am running an atenza sp limited mazda body and it is agreed at everyrack i go to this body is the real deal. it is made by active. i am running a kawahara high dam option wing.

This is all i can think of without my sheet but give it a shot. Also you may need to take a drill to the lower arms and free them a tiny bit. use 3mm drill bit and run it through both holes at the same time just to true it up. do a little and then recheck and again if needed. pretty minor and this car builds easy and tweak free! enjoy!

Last edited by rcosmax; 10-24-2004 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:52 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
nice ride D
Thanks dude but I hope you did not think that's my ride !
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:54 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
Other than that it is pretty interchangeable between the nova/rossi and new jp/idm engines.
What do you mean by "interchangeable"? Their parts can swap? Which part?

Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
The new NS engines seem to be smoother and more usable than the RR rosis, that is the word at the tracks anyway.
You mean the NS12 engines are better than the RR Novarossi engines?
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:57 PM   #324
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
rear width is toooo wide on my car like 204mm! but it seems to be working!
37 shore 32mm wide tire
Thanks for the setup rcosmax but wouldn't that setup above be illegal with the wider tires and wider rear trackwidth? It would be better if the setup you posted was legal. That way those who run with rules would be able to use them.
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Old 10-24-2004, 08:31 PM   #325
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for those of you looking for universals. If you can get the Eagle universal shafts the are just as tough and high quality and 10 bucks as opposed to 30 for the kfactory ushafts. Kawahara also just released a very thick and beefy rear shock stay! more than 2 times as thick as the kfactory rear carbon stay. Cheaper too! only 10 bucks aswell.
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Old 10-24-2004, 08:35 PM   #326
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yeah initial d. as i said though I had only raced club and it is open with no inspection at all. and no restrictions. i have also ran the above setup with regular tires and it works so no big changes needed. To tell the truth before yesterday I had only used the kit settings and hadnt checked the width. That was why i was so surprised it was 204mm rear width! Anyway reducing the rear width will give even more traction so bring it down to 200 mm and it will be even better.

no initial d the parts have nothing to do with each other I dont know about if you can change the parts, although i am sure you do. In my post i was responding to a question about which engines where winning races here in japan and i replied that the nova base engines and the newer jp engines seem to be the most popular and win the most races(interchangabel) meant at the end of the day these engines could win races....

in regards to NS vrs RR I didnt say which was faster just that the people that i race with have commented that the ns is smoother to drive.

Last edited by rcosmax; 10-24-2004 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 10-24-2004, 08:47 PM   #327
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
Anyway reducing the rear width will give even more traction so bring it down to 200 mm and it will be even better.
Increasing which traction? Front or rear?

Reducing rear width would definitely lower the available rear traction. The car already has a lot of steering. So making the rear less rear traction would cause the car to oversteer more. No?
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Old 10-24-2004, 09:07 PM   #328
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Initial d
In regards to (Rear) traction that is what I had always thought, but someone explained it to me a different way that seemed to make sense in theroy regarding roll center/width/traction. I cant begin to do this justice cause I dont really understand it(this is how it was explained to me), but please help me get through this.

if you have a wide wheel base the lateral load placed on the tire/tirewall is less than if you have a narrower wheel base. As the car (rolls) more lateral load is placed on the tire. with a narrow width more lateral load/pressure is placed on the tire and therefore more traction. A wider wheel base will give more lateral stability but less traction.

when the car has body roll it has more traction than if it is sliding around the corners with little roll. If you think of traction in terms of roll then less width is good up until the point you start traction rolling.

now i guess i still havent answered your question. and i cant really because the two front and rear traction are connected. Increasing one will change the other aswell. so an increase in rear traction will result in a decrease in front traction( to a lesser degree).

experts please please correct me. (didnt mean to turn this into the endless roll center debate sorry) my fingers hurt.
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:21 AM   #329
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Default Kawahara Rear Shock Stays

Heya rcosmax,

you had mentioned about the kawahara rear shock stays... was wondering whether you'd know where they'd be selling these on-line.... (hk sites preferably, if its not too much to ask
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:42 AM   #330
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
if you have a wide wheel base the lateral load placed on the tire/tirewall is less than if you have a narrower wheel base. As the car (rolls) more lateral load is placed on the tire. with a narrow width more lateral load/pressure is placed on the tire and therefore more traction. A wider wheel base will give more lateral stability but less traction.
That is what I thought and read too.

As a matter of fact, I remember when either Serpent or Picco(?) reduced the front width of one of their 1/8 cars as a running change some time ago to increase steering on the car.
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