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Old 06-18-2005, 10:19 AM   #3046
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Originally Posted by uaerc
hi

Just got my rrr dialed in this weekend, after a long time managed to get it just right for our track handlingwise, had changed the rear oil to 3000 and put in some soft spring at the rear.

Unfortunately, some one hit my rrr on the exhaust and totally damanged my brand new rd logics turbo 2. Is there any way i could repair it ?? the stinger is crushed and squashed the whole front.

Had to put in the 7.2 mm skyline pipe in coz thats what i had as a spare, which i think only has top end. and my track is tight so you guys can imagine.......what would be the best pipe ? for My sirio 12 tup

Appreciate if someone can let me know how to setup my clutch as it is engaging really slow. is this standard with the RRR or i just need to change to the red shoe ?

the setting was done by a freind of mine who did it as per manual.
I think it's a matter of tuning. You need to re-tune your engine for a different pipe. I think everyone I know who've tried both ended up staying with the Skyline pipe.
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Old 06-18-2005, 10:30 AM   #3047
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
The Skyline pipe should be fine. Is the engine reving way up before the car moves or is the car just sluggish once the clutch engages (car begins to move)?
Revving a lot.......before it engages and it is pretty sluggish untill the first gear...the second kicks in too late coz i already reached the corner but then i loosend up the second speed so this was kickin in quicker.....but still the first gear is quite sluggish. In the second tank - i had to hit full gas to make the car move.........

Looks like something to do with the clutch or the small needles on the engine..... which could be rich low end ?

hope this makes sense to you !
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Old 06-18-2005, 10:34 AM   #3048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I think it's a matter of tuning. You need to re-tune your engine for a different pipe. I think everyone I know who've tried both ended up staying with the Skyline pipe.
Jeff,

The car was sluggish in the first gear with the rdlogics aswell...

Another RRR built by the same guy has a problem where the revv is really high till the clutch engages but then its really fast only in corners when he has to rev a lot.......
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Old 06-18-2005, 10:36 AM   #3049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
Revving a lot.......before it engages and it is pretty sluggish untill the first gear...the second kicks in too late coz i already reached the corner but then i loosend up the second speed so this was kickin in quicker.....but still the first gear is quite sluggish. In the second tank - i had to hit full gas to make the car move.........

Looks like something to do with the clutch or the small needles on the engine..... which could be rich low end ?

hope this makes sense to you !
Yeah it's definitely the tuning. It sounds like you are running rich but I can't tell if its' the top or bottom. You need to have someone at your track who knows to help you tune your engine.
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Old 06-18-2005, 10:42 AM   #3050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
Jeff,

The car was sluggish in the first gear with the rdlogics aswell...

Another RRR built by the same guy has a problem where the revv is really high till the clutch engages but then its really fast only in corners when he has to rev a lot.......
Perhaps you need to adjust your clutch as well. How deep did you have your clutch spring nut into the flywheel nut? make sure it's no more than 1.2mm per instruction if you use the standard clutch spring.
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Old 06-18-2005, 12:55 PM   #3051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Perhaps you need to adjust your clutch as well. How deep did you have your clutch spring nut into the flywheel nut? make sure it's no more than 1.2mm per instruction if you use the standard clutch spring.
Yeah... I was thinking that the clutch spring was too tight. Usually, If the engine is too rich, the car won't change gears. Does the reving sound like a "runaway nitro car" (high pitch, screeching) or an engine gargling under water? If, its a high pitched reving, then your clutch is too tight. If, it's gargling, then the needle seetings are too rich. Try the "pinch test" on the fuel line going into the carb. Run the engine for a minute then pinch the fuel line near the carb inlet. The engine should stop within 3 to 5 seconds for a good low end needle setting (stops too early - too lean / stops too late - too rich). The high end needle setting should have the engine reving high with a clean sharp increase in tone / note without hesitation or sounding like its struggling (a good running temp is usually between 220 and 280 degrees - depending on the engine).
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Old 06-18-2005, 03:00 PM   #3052
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Just found the set up problem that was holding me back
It was the clutch spring !!
I found it too late and snatchy for my liking and I had released it so much it fell off the end of the thread
I had a spare spring for the FW05 3D clutch, this felt as stiff as the RRR 4D spring but it is about 1.5mm shorter.
I now have the clutch biting that little earlier which allows me more control of the power uptake around those sweepers.
Since this change I have had to go back to the 16T gear, and also tighten up the 2nd gear clutch, and the best bit is that the motor which I thought was running lean was actually running rich by half a turn.
Now to start a race set up all over again, and to re-time the tank run again.
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Old 06-18-2005, 03:18 PM   #3053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Yeah... I was thinking that the clutch spring was too tight. Usually, If the engine is too rich, the car won't change gears. Does the reving sound like a "runaway nitro car" (high pitch, screeching) or an engine gargling under water? If, its a high pitched reving, then your clutch is too tight. If, it's gargling, then the needle seetings are too rich. Try the "pinch test" on the fuel line going into the carb. Run the engine for a minute then pinch the fuel line near the carb inlet. The engine should stop within 3 to 5 seconds for a good low end needle setting (stops too early - too lean / stops too late - too rich). The high end needle setting should have the engine reving high with a clean sharp increase in tone / note without hesitation or sounding like its struggling (a good running temp is usually between 220 and 280 degrees - depending on the engine).
Jeff / Kewdawg...

Seems like you guys have hit the nail on the head....looks like have to check the spring and also lean/richen the low end bit by bit. The top end is tuned i am sure of that, just the low end or middle...

any link websites on this would help.....
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Old 06-18-2005, 06:06 PM   #3054
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which skyline pipe are you guys using?

I thought that pipes that are more bat-like shaped where for bottom end, always been that way for buggy. the one pictured on skylines site says mid-top end. was kind of thinking of getting that one.
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Old 06-18-2005, 07:03 PM   #3055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
hi


Unfortunately, some one hit my rrr on the exhaust and totally damanged my brand new rd logics turbo 2. Is there any way i could repair it ?? the stinger is crushed and squashed the whole front.

.
You could try repairing the stinger by inserting a screwdriver into the stinger and trying to slowly ease it back into shape.
The damaged pipe may be able to be repaired by freezing it.
Take the pipe off the car, cover the stinger, the fuel tank connection and then fill it with water,and then pop it in the freezer.
The water freezing and expanding will hopefully push the pipe back into its original shape......keep a close eye on it whilst it`s in the freezer so it doesnt go too farout of shape in the other direction.
Cheers
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Old 06-18-2005, 11:02 PM   #3056
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There is a new chassis from Skyline that is a cost friendly and maintenance friendly now available. I got mine yesterday and I'm equally impressed with the machining and cost. It's made out of 7075 T6 aluminum is slightly thicker than 3mm. The best feature about this chassis is the milled out area for the clutch bell to slide out. I no longer have to loosen the engine mounts to take out the clutch bell. It has the words "7075-T6" and "Skyline" machined on the bottom of the chassis.

Afterwards, I took the chassis out for a run and although it is a little thicker I found the difference in handling to be negligible if not non existent. In other words, it handles the same just a heck of a lot cheaper than Kyosho.

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Old 06-19-2005, 06:00 AM   #3057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
Jeff / Kewdawg...

Seems like you guys have hit the nail on the head....looks like have to check the spring and also lean/richen the low end bit by bit. The top end is tuned i am sure of that, just the low end or middle...

any link websites on this would help.....
Leave the mid-range needle alone. Just follow my last post for the low end needle setting and you'll be fine.
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:56 AM   #3058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
which skyline pipe are you guys using?

I thought that pipes that are more bat-like shaped where for bottom end, always been that way for buggy. the one pictured on skylines site says mid-top end. was kind of thinking of getting that one.
Check out this post. I think it says good overall.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...07#post1652407
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:57 AM   #3059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugenextreme
just wondering folks what difference is there in the v-one rrr standard and the WC kit parts wise. If this was posted before can someone post a link for me . cheers
posted the difference betweent he regular rrr kit and the rrr wce. it's in this thread, a few pages back. i also included pictures of the hop-parts already included in the kit...
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:01 AM   #3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
Just found the set up problem that was holding me back
It was the clutch spring !!
I found it too late and snatchy for my liking and I had released it so much it fell off the end of the thread
I had a spare spring for the FW05 3D clutch, this felt as stiff as the RRR 4D spring but it is about 1.5mm shorter.
I now have the clutch biting that little earlier which allows me more control of the power uptake around those sweepers.
Since this change I have had to go back to the 16T gear, and also tighten up the 2nd gear clutch, and the best bit is that the motor which I thought was running lean was actually running rich by half a turn.
Now to start a race set up all over again, and to re-time the tank run again.
i have also noticed this problem. i swapped the centax clutch spring with the centax clutch spring of the older K cars. got mine from the centax clutch of an rr. now, i can screw in the spring retainer more without having to worry that it might come off... the older centax clutch spring is shorter than the one that came with the kit...
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