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Old 06-05-2005, 02:27 PM   #2821
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Default rear belt

I had busted my rear belt..... the other day and was planning to fix it so i managed to open up the rear and found out that the belt had destroyed the pully aswell...... so had to order the rear pully diff cup and put it all up again.....

there are 3 settings...... tight - normal - loose for the belt...... in the housing.. it is currently set on loose....... i was gonna put it on tight when a freind told me not to--- coz it would eat up the belt.......

what u guys reckon is the perfect - setting........ or commonly used ?

Thanks.
Ziizo
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Old 06-05-2005, 03:06 PM   #2822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreylin

Finally on the droop. I run relative small tires (generally 57/59) and 6-7mm gives plenty of droop. if you run bigger tires you probably need even less (as in 8-9mm). For a simple explaination on effects of droop setting, read the following:

http://www.donegal.flyer.co.uk/car%20setup%20guide.htm

Jeffreylin, may I know what droop are you running in the front? Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2005, 05:05 PM   #2823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAJ
Hey Andy im going down there next Sunday for practice....

Have you run on the track yet? Would lighter diff oil in the rear benifit the car there? say 10k?

Cheers
Hi Daniel
I`ve done the past 2 meetings at Fairy Meadow.....i ran the stock oil 30k and it had plenty of steering (even when i ran the solid front diff at the 2nd meeting)......the stock oil should be fine.
Tyres...either 37 or 40 shore are fine....the grip comes up during the day. In the morning theres a fair bit of shade over the track (especially near drivers stand) so the track doesnt have as much grip early in the day, as its surface temp is still quite cool.
A front diff/solid is the way to go (i ran a one-way 1st meet).....you really need the brakes around this track as it has a few short fast sections leading into hairpins.
Cheers
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Old 06-05-2005, 05:17 PM   #2824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite
hey andy!
Yeh man, sent my entry in last friday

have you tryed the spool yet? i found it to make the front belt heaps too tight, even with it on the loosest setting possible. Anyone else have this problem?

.
I ran the spool at Fairy Meadow last weekend.....was quite impressed with it.
My front belts tension seems okay when running the spool....its not a new belt though, so may have stretched a bit over a new one and runs a bit looser.
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Old 06-05-2005, 06:17 PM   #2825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger266
Can you give me the code no e.g. VZ012 for rear diff outdrive, cause the only differential i can find in the option/spare parts in the manual is the Front differential gear. thanks
VZ219
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Old 06-05-2005, 06:20 PM   #2826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uaerc
I had busted my rear belt..... the other day and was planning to fix it so i managed to open up the rear and found out that the belt had destroyed the pully aswell...... so had to order the rear pully diff cup and put it all up again.....

there are 3 settings...... tight - normal - loose for the belt...... in the housing.. it is currently set on loose....... i was gonna put it on tight when a freind told me not to--- coz it would eat up the belt.......

what u guys reckon is the perfect - setting........ or commonly used ?

Thanks.
Ziizo
I have it at loose as well. I think the pully gets worn out more from crashing and braking. It just something you need to replace on a regular basis.
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Old 06-05-2005, 06:21 PM   #2827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air jordan
Jeffreylin, may I know what droop are you running in the front? Thanks!
I think I have it at 1 or 1.5 measured from the wheel hub using the Hudy droop gauge.
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Old 06-05-2005, 08:29 PM   #2828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
He's got a problem
LOL, yeah I know that's why I decided not to run it and wait for the belt and rear CVD

Last edited by centax error!; 06-05-2005 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 06-05-2005, 08:30 PM   #2829
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I have once again joined the Kyosho Nation. I just ordered my WC today can't wait to get it. Any need to order the 4mm 3racing Chassis, or anything else? And do I need any special tools for the centax style clutch?
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Old 06-05-2005, 08:38 PM   #2830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I have once again joined the Kyosho Nation. I just ordered my WC today can't wait to get it. Any need to order the 4mm 3racing Chassis, or anything else? And do I need any special tools for the centax style clutch?
I have not heard very good things about the 4mm chassis. I think the small chassis flex 3mm chassis gives provides some additional grip.

A good caliper is all you need for the centax to start. Tools will make it easier but not necessary.
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:42 AM   #2831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
Hi Daniel
I`ve done the past 2 meetings at Fairy Meadow.....i ran the stock oil 30k and it had plenty of steering (even when i ran the solid front diff at the 2nd meeting)......the stock oil should be fine.
Tyres...either 37 or 40 shore are fine....the grip comes up during the day. In the morning theres a fair bit of shade over the track (especially near drivers stand) so the track doesnt have as much grip early in the day, as its surface temp is still quite cool.
A front diff/solid is the way to go (i ran a one-way 1st meet).....you really need the brakes around this track as it has a few short fast sections leading into hairpins.
Cheers
Thanks For that champ I owe you a front set of tyres
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:12 AM   #2832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I have once again joined the Kyosho Nation. I just ordered my WC today can't wait to get it. Any need to order the 4mm 3racing Chassis, or anything else? And do I need any special tools for the centax style clutch?
I tried the 4mm chassis and it made the car handle poorly. Soon I will try a 2.5mm chassis
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:18 AM   #2833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder
I tried the 4mm chassis and it made the car handle poorly. Soon I will try a 2.5mm chassis
I was thinking the same, as on my FW05 I went from the 4mm Shimo chassis to the 2.5mm FW05S chassis and the handling is so much more forgiving.

Who does a 2.5mm for the RRR?
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Old 06-06-2005, 07:15 AM   #2834
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hey guys i'm having an absolute * of a time trying to get the front solid into the car... origionally i didnt put it in because i found the belt too tight and binded up the front of the car so i stuck with the oneway...

now i can get the solid to go in albeit really really tight that it pushes the front bulkheads out a little... but i can get it in there, i found turning the right bearing housing around made it go as easy as the oneway drops in - hoping the housing wont come off when i go to try it...

at least i can get the dang thing in now...

the problems i have now is the ackerman hits the outer rim where the ballcups for steering arms attach, actually hits the ballcup. also the front right cvd sits into the solid perfect but the left cvd sits right at the end and falls out... so i thought what the... stuck the oneway back in... sits in the same distance both sides...

so although i am hanging out to try a solid in the front! i just cant seem to make it work in getting it to go in functionally!!! ARRGH!!

has anybody else had these problems? or found some solutions? (i got the recomended front drives too so they cant be too small)
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Old 06-06-2005, 07:51 AM   #2835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite
hey guys i'm having an absolute * of a time trying to get the front solid into the car... origionally i didnt put it in because i found the belt too tight and binded up the front of the car so i stuck with the oneway...

now i can get the solid to go in albeit really really tight that it pushes the front bulkheads out a little... but i can get it in there, i found turning the right bearing housing around made it go as easy as the oneway drops in - hoping the housing wont come off when i go to try it...

at least i can get the dang thing in now...

the problems i have now is the ackerman hits the outer rim where the ballcups for steering arms attach, actually hits the ballcup. also the front right cvd sits into the solid perfect but the left cvd sits right at the end and falls out... so i thought what the... stuck the oneway back in... sits in the same distance both sides...

so although i am hanging out to try a solid in the front! i just cant seem to make it work in getting it to go in functionally!!! ARRGH!!

has anybody else had these problems? or found some solutions? (i got the recomended front drives too so they cant be too small)
This has been discussed in great detail on earlier pages, and you have numerous options.
I had no problem in fitting the diff housing, and I used the #11 ackerman.
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