Kyosho v-one rrr
#2761
Glad to here it! If your LHS does not carry Kyosho, bug them till they do...LOL
#2762
I just installed my 3racing disc brake with the Kawahara alloy brake stopper. It all moves very smooth untill i hit the brakes it does not release when i release on my radio.... any ideas on whats causeing it?
Any help would be great
Any help would be great
#2763
Originally Posted by TRAJ
I just installed my 3racing disc brake with the Kawahara alloy brake stopper. It all moves very smooth untill i hit the brakes it does not release when i release on my radio.... any ideas on whats causeing it?
Any help would be great
Any help would be great
#2764
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I don't think so.
#2765
Originally Posted by Seisick
that's what I thought, he is full of bull s...!is there a new sirio evo 3 wcr?
#2766
Originally Posted by TRAJ
I just installed my 3racing disc brake with the Kawahara alloy brake stopper. It all moves very smooth untill i hit the brakes it does not release when i release on my radio.... any ideas on whats causeing it?
Any help would be great
Any help would be great
#2767
Ive checked all linkages and screws and pads it was fine with the stock disc and holder. The screws are loose and still binds when i brake..
I think the metal piece that activates the brakes to open and close (Pg 13 section 15 #173) is getting stuck when i brake?
Ive built many cars this is the 1st time its happened
Thanks
I think the metal piece that activates the brakes to open and close (Pg 13 section 15 #173) is getting stuck when i brake?
Ive built many cars this is the 1st time its happened
Thanks
#2768
Originally Posted by TRAJ
Ive checked all linkages and screws and pads it was fine with the stock disc and holder. The screws are loose and still binds when i brake..
I think the metal piece that activates the brakes to open and close (Pg 13 section 15 #173) is getting stuck when i brake?
Ive built many cars this is the 1st time its happened
Thanks
I think the metal piece that activates the brakes to open and close (Pg 13 section 15 #173) is getting stuck when i brake?
Ive built many cars this is the 1st time its happened
Thanks
how about the holes on the brake pads ? are they big enough not to interfer with the threads on the two screws ?
#2769
how about the fit between the brake and the brake holder ? it is suppose to fit loosely (floating). this is the last thing i can think of without seeing how it binds. hope this help.
#2770
Thanks for you help data
yer its sitting loosly and the screws for the pads are aswell i dont see why its binding will rebuild it again
yer its sitting loosly and the screws for the pads are aswell i dont see why its binding will rebuild it again
#2771
Originally Posted by TRAJ
I think the metal piece that activates the brakes to open and close (Pg 13 section 15 #173) is getting stuck when i brake?
when you apply the brake, how far does the disc push out or how large was the brake arm movement ? maybe you are right that the disc was pushed too far out and got stuck on the bulk head. if that was the case, i expect you can only apply the brake only once and the brake will engage forever. tighten the screw (this will reduce the brake arm movement) shoud fix that. good luck.
#2772
The 3racing brake leaver was screwed down too tight all the rebuilding for something so simple
Thanks
Thanks
#2773
Tech Master
set up help!
First out with my 3R WCE. Our track is small low grip concrete but treated with molasses ( raw sugar syrup) Set-up is basically stock except changed the front to diff with 10K diff oil and 3K on rear. Was really impress with the car's steering and the smooth drive train and the easy access diffs. The only problem I had with the current set up is that the car is loose off power on entry and if you're really hard on the throttle during exit the rear will break traction to a point that it will swap place with the front. Played with spings, shock oils and diff oils ( 10k, 5K, 3k WT on the rear) but still can't get rid of the problem. Could it be the overdrive from using the 23T side pulley ? or the fact that the rear is narrower than the front because I was not using 2 deg offset rim? Btw, I am running rubber tires .I have ordered the optional belt for using 24T side pulley and the longer rear CVD's so that I can a full 200mm rear track width. The parts won't get in until next week though and I want to run the car this weekend. Any set up suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
CE
CE
#2774
Originally Posted by centax error!
First out with my 3R WCE. Our track is small low grip concrete but treated with molasses ( raw sugar syrup) Set-up is basically stock except changed the front to diff with 10K diff oil and 3K on rear. Was really impress with the car's steering and the smooth drive train and the easy access diffs. The only problem I had with the current set up is that the car is loose off power on entry and if you're really hard on the throttle during exit the rear will break traction to a point that it will swap place with the front. Played with spings, shock oils and diff oils ( 10k, 5K, 3k WT on the rear) but still can't get rid of the problem. Could it be the overdrive from using the 23T side pulley ? or the fact that the rear is narrower than the front because I was not using 2 deg offset rim? Btw, I am running rubber tires .I have ordered the optional belt for using 24T side pulley and the longer rear CVD's so that I can a full 200mm rear track width. The parts won't get in until next week though and I want to run the car this weekend. Any set up suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
CE
CE
#2775
Tech Master
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
Just put 2mm shims between the wheel hex and the wheel until you get the longer CVD.
jeffreylin, is that the reason why I am having the problem because I was running a narrow rear? and the overdrive has nothing to do with it. I will try putting 2 mm shims and thanks for the reply