R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-18-2005, 03:38 AM   #2161
Tech Master
 
TRAJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,203
Default

Some probs were listed with the servo afew pages back about clearence for the topdeck but never head of it touching the battery

Try maybe moving the battery abit futher back on the battery plate should have room
TRAJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 03:42 AM   #2162
Tech Master
 
TRAJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,203
Default

Also there is a set of shim blocks that are included in the kit which is designed for the 9451 servo

make sure you have the right shims installed
TRAJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 03:51 AM   #2163
Tech Elite
 
dodo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: the archipelago
Posts: 3,095
Send a message via Yahoo to dodo
Default

sometimes you need to trim the servo horn at one side so it provide some space for the horn to move further without touching the receiver batt.
dodo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 04:37 AM   #2164
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Arrow

Quote:
Originally posted by TRAJ
Also there is a set of shim blocks that are included in the kit which is designed for the 9451 servo

make sure you have the right shims installed
ok thanks will have to double check on that
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 04:39 AM   #2165
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Arrow

Quote:
Originally posted by dodo
sometimes you need to trim the servo horn at one side so it provide some space for the horn to move further without touching the receiver batt.
i already did, half of the thickness have been cut off
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 06:17 AM   #2166
Tech Addict
 
Dynamite's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 614
Send a message via MSN to Dynamite
Default

does anyone know what difference changing the akerman on the steering has on the car handling or well steering at least? I would presume the "11" which you would install when following the instuction manual which i did... would be the best all round situation with either of the other two providing more and less steering?

Also if i wanted to try a front lock diff, do i need to buy a set of specific outdrives to suit the application? or do the same ones for rear fit into the front?

thanks for any information
__________________
www.racingfactory.org
Kyosho RRR Evo | Sirio Evo III STI | Ko Radio
Dynamite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 07:10 AM   #2167
Tech Regular
 
Kyle Hazell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 371
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Dynamite
does anyone know what difference changing the akerman on the steering has on the car handling or well steering at least? I would presume the "11" which you would install when following the instuction manual which i did... would be the best all round situation with either of the other two providing more and less steering?

Also if i wanted to try a front lock diff, do i need to buy a set of specific outdrives to suit the application? or do the same ones for rear fit into the front?

thanks for any information
Hi Dynamite,

(11) is a good starting point, which i ran at the NSW State Titles recently, however in high traction changing to (12) will make the car easier to drive. (10) will give you more steering, which might be ok for Tamworth (never raced there), but from what i can see its a tight track.

Lock front diff is something we have tried with limited success, its generally only used tame the car down on corner entry, especially if its bumpy. You will need different outdrives (VZ-218), and the pully set. Also make sure you use the 3 Racing insert as the std one will destroy itself in no time.

Regards

Kyle
Kyle Hazell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 10:51 PM   #2168
Tech Fanatic
 
AndyT 's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 862
Default Re: Car body length

Quote:
Originally posted by ahleon
What car body length suits the RRR?

I find those 200mm body length a little tight....the wheel arcs dun really match...as in the rear wheels will be off by around 5mm.
The 200mm body should fit fine.......once you have it centred then trim the wheel arches to allow proper clearance.
Also, if youre using a Protoform Mazda 6 body, reverse the rear body posts, that way they wont come up underneath the rear wing.
Cheers
AndyT  is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 10:57 PM   #2169
Tech Fanatic
 
AndyT 's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 862
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by buboy28
i already did, half of the thickness have been cut off
It shouldnt really need any cutting.....make sure you dont take too much off
As Traj said.....you need the different spacers (part #112)(check the top right hand corner of page 23) to get the 9451 to fit properly....I also used the larger rubber grommets that came with the 9451 to help with clearance.
Cheers
AndyT  is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 11:40 PM   #2170
Tech Elite
 
dodo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: the archipelago
Posts: 3,095
Send a message via Yahoo to dodo
Default Re: Re: Car body length

Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
The 200mm body should fit fine.......once you have it centred then trim the wheel arches to allow proper clearance.
Also, if youre using a Protoform Mazda 6 body, reverse the rear body posts, that way they wont come up underneath the rear wing.
Cheers
and if u're using the rear swaybar, don't forget to trim the bottom part of the body post, bcs when the swaybar travels up, it will slightly touch the bottom of the post (when reversed)
dodo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2005, 11:42 PM   #2171
Tech Elite
 
dodo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: the archipelago
Posts: 3,095
Send a message via Yahoo to dodo
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
It shouldnt really need any cutting.....make sure you dont take too much off
As Traj said.....you need the different spacers (part #112)(check the top right hand corner of page 23) to get the 9451 to fit properly....I also used the larger rubber grommets that came with the 9451 to help with clearance.
Cheers
i think even if u use the correct spacer, you will need to trim so that the servo horn won't touch the battery when it travels toward the battery. but to cut until half of the thickness... i think u got the risk of breaking the servo horn... maybe?
dodo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2005, 04:18 AM   #2172
Tech Addict
 
Dynamite's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 614
Send a message via MSN to Dynamite
Default

Thanks for the info kyle

I was also wondering whats the best way to set your track width? I just use a set of digital calipers and set them according to the manual, the distance from the arm to the hub, then after setting all that i use my setup board to set the front / rear cambers and toe's. But i was also reading somewhere that the best way to do it was to measure from the chassis to the hub for both Left and right... which is the best way to measure it and the best way to go about doing it - or is what i'm doing the easiest way?
__________________
www.racingfactory.org
Kyosho RRR Evo | Sirio Evo III STI | Ko Radio
Dynamite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2005, 03:39 PM   #2173
Tech Elite
 
Racing4Evo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,118
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Racing4Evo
Default

I just got back from the RD Logics race in Vegas. The car was great with the changes I made. I had issues with the motor though.

The 2 degree front hubs tremendously with on power steering and raising the rear shocks all the way up really helped with corner entry stability. Me and Alex both had really good cars but bad luck and motor problems kept us out of the A-main.

If anyone races in Vegas with the V-one RRR, we have a great easy to drive set up.
Racing4Evo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2005, 05:39 PM   #2174
Tech Fanatic
 
AndyT 's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 862
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Dynamite


I was also wondering whats the best way to set your track width? I just use a set of digital calipers and set them according to the manual, the distance from the arm to the hub, then after setting all that i use my setup board to set the front / rear cambers and toe's.
I used the same method for setting mine.....put the calipers between the hub and the arm and then set according to the manual.
One prob i had though, was when running at the recommended gap of 4.2mm that i "popped" the dog bones (also seen another RRR besides mine do this as well).
By narrowing this gap I havent had any probs since, but this leaves a slightly narrower track width.......I have some swingarms to put on the front, hopefully they`ll help to get track width back closer to stock.
I`d be interested as to how accurate it is to set the track width using one the Hudy setup boards?
Cheers
AndyT  is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2005, 07:47 PM   #2175
Tech Master
 
buboy28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: manila,philippines
Posts: 1,601
Send a message via AIM to buboy28 Send a message via Yahoo to buboy28
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
It shouldnt really need any cutting.....make sure you dont take too much off
As Traj said.....you need the different spacers (part #112)(check the top right hand corner of page 23) to get the 9451 to fit properly....I also used the larger rubber grommets that came with the 9451 to help with clearance.
Cheers
already checked it and i used the correct spacers for the 9451 plus the rubber grommets that camewith it. dont know what's the problem will have to dis assemble this part and re assemble it again
buboy28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FOR SALE - Mugen MBX5T ProSpec and Kyosho STR with chassis conversion and Kyosho big MattWells R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 04-28-2017 10:25 AM
1986 1/12 Kyosho Plazma MKIII With Kyosho LeMan 600E Motor Funkymojo R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 05-17-2012 11:11 AM
Custom painted Kyosho SP2 and Kyosho STRR bodies.... RC3 Graphics SWEET W/ PICS CRFXXXT R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 01-07-2008 07:38 PM
MACH. 28/NEW PS, KYOSHO MINI INFERNO ST/W/3NEW IB1400 8 CELL PACKS, KYOSHO 1./8 BUGGY newbie2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-18-2007 06:07 PM
Convert Kyosho Quick Start system on Kyosho QRC to Pullstart Morpheus2be Monster Trucks 0 02-16-2005 11:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:23 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net