Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

hahaha, well im about to run the 966 for the first time since the Nats. but E power now. no clutch to worry about now !

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Harry i have been running the clutch nut this way since i had the G4S and this is how Dennis Richey was telling everyone how to use it. I am learning all the time though trying to understand the whole clutch setup better...

Andrew

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thank you Paul and Harry for your feedback, back to the drawing boards!


Harry:

I am keen to play at Brendale, but i am not a member of any club at the moment and Wynnum is alot closer for me to go to and have a play. Am keen to meet up and have some practice though when life isn't so busy!

Let me know though....

Andrew

blis

7. Install the clutch shoe silver spring retainer, spring and nut. Install the nut with the step facing away from the spring. Tighten the nut down until you have 2 threads showing at the end of the flywheel nut. This is where you will start for spring adjustment.

From KFactory Site.

the method I use, it's common..

1) Ensure the flywheel colette fits well, doesnt protrude out the front and has "just enough" clearance at the rear and mount the flywheel using a flywheel tool

2) Install throws, clutch plate, clutch, spring and screw down the clutch nut as stated above, less threads for lime or red, orange.. I usually use my fingers until it's hard to turn.

3) With lower bearing removed from Clutch bell and upper in place, set clutch bell onto shoe at it's ZERO point and use venier calipers to and ZERO off vernier from the crank shaft to edge of clutch bell

4) Remove bell, place an old thrustbearing washer over crank against the clutch but, bearing ridges facing upwards and place lower bearing onto this. By placing the clutch bell onto it first, you will feel if there's a gap or not by pressing firmly against it and feeling if it no longer runs against the clutch shoe. Take a measurement of the gap using ZEROED verniers as per step three and shim the thrustbearing until you get to .5 -.6mm.

NOTE: I add larger shims under the thrust bearing "washer" and a single small shim above it and against the lower bearing as to not stress shims which will deform as the lower bearing spins or it can and usually will change the gap.

5) Gap is set, grease and install your thrust bearings.. Theres a smaller hole in one of the thrust bearing washers, (I think that rests against the thrust bearing retainer - pls correct me if wrong) and begin shimming the retainer (I start with another thrust bearing washer if possible). Shim the thrust bearing downwards from the retainer using large shims until u achieve a .1mm gap. Many people debate over this gap in terms of performance, I simply accommodate for heat expansion. press down on the retainer ensureing you arent stressing the thrust bearing.

6) Firmly holding the flywheel tighten the clutch screw, if there's additional end play, your screw may be too long or you can use small shims on the screw.

Things to note:

Less shims the better, using too many thin shims can cause them to slip, heat up and deform.
Keep your thrust bearings greased, TM thrust bearings are great along with all their bearings.
Ensure collette is right lenght and flywheel isnt rubbing against the block nor protuding so much you dont have crank length.

As for tuning, for me it's a matter of getting it right and there's lots of info regarding the fine tuning which is beyond our performance level. So I just get my clutches working well and engaging at the power band I want to engage at. Getting into the end play and how hard the clutch bites, what weights to use with certain spring rates and how much slip versus bite on the shoe is something you can experiement with later.

cheers

h

PS: Bundy, pls note that this is an ass about way of doing it as the END PLAY adds to the the GAP hence the .5-.6mm gap, I just find it easier than re-screwing in the retainer and thrust bearing. Works fine for me.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Since it seems to rain all the time at the moment I have managed to finish both cars and rebuilt the clutch on my Picco with Loctite this time!

First few photos are my new Mongoose with Blis inspired bling bling bits installed... and then the last few are both cars together ready for Abbey to have a drive when she feels like it.













Thanks for looking
Andrew

blis

They look ready

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

So are those both using the dual swing arm steering? Or are those using the single arm steering?

The one thing I never liked about the TM G4 was the receiver placement. I just don't like having the receiver mounted so close to the motor. I made a kydex slab which I mounted on the the steering servo mount block and used it to mount a micro receiver where the transponder mount is. Of course I cut off the transponder mount(wing). Now that most everyone are using PT's that transponder mount is somewhat dated and unnecessary.

Your Mongoose has inspired me to bring back my G4 from the back burner. I gave up on it a while back when I decided to just go with a Serpent 1/10th. Now that it is gone because I went 1/8th, I think I'll bring it back just to have it for fun.

BTW is there a rear sway bar update I can use for the rear over the old blade type? Something like the ones on the Kyosho RRR?

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

YR4Dude:

I am using the dual swing rack on both these cars. I do have all the parts to modify the chassis to take the bellcrank system, but i am wanting to try the dual swing first.

Your right about the receiver location, I believe it is worse on the G4S and later models in front of the engine with the heat transfer.

On my Mongoose i am running the Flying Wing rear suspension arms that allow you to use the rear blade sway bar setup from the g4+ & G4RS 08.

If you have any questions i am happy to help!

Thanks
Andrew

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Going to track test my Mongoose again tomorrow. Over the Easter break i was able to run it at Meakin Park and at Landsbrough on the Sunny Coast. I have been a little puzzled with my findings so far, i expected Meakin to be dusty and loose in the rear as a result and SC to have more grip and be on song. But if anything it was more unstable at Sunshine Coast, both tracks i need a little more steering and might have to change to the bellcrank system from G4S...

See what happens tomorrow!

Andrew

blis

I finally made the switch to LiPo on the G4 as Luke is now racing nitro and Guy has a NEW Velox just for something different.

For the G4 I used a LRP 1700mAh Lipo with a 3A Novak regulator with low voltage switch. The regulator slipped into the gap made from the old batttery, the new battery is attached where the receiver usually lives with a bit of padding for security. We've setup the Receiver on top of the transponder plate and the transponder is below it.

It seems to have worked out quite well and wonder why I hadnt put it together before. Perhaps my fears on using regulators may rear it's ugly head but for now the peace of mind knowing I have 1700mAh on board makes me feel good and the electronic switch is kinda funky.

FYI: Due to having the electronic Novak regulator switch I hard wired in the battery and use the balancing leads to charge the LiPo

Cheers h

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Harry:

Nice to hear an update from you, I saw the Velox V10 photos on FaceBook. I am unsure about a LiPo setup, i had an issue with the regulator on my Kyosho.

Tried my car today at Wynnum, the rear is alot more planted like i had hoped compared to the G4RS and G4RS 09 i had driven previously.

Picco is playing up for me at the moment, might be time to dig into the engine box and see what i pull out fresh.

Andrew

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Does anyone have any thought on changing the front roll centre on the Speedshot front end to increase some steering without changing to the bellcrank system?

I am lazy and don't want to change the chassis and radio tray just to try the different steering system!

Thanks in advance

Andrew

5crossyourlip

iTrader: (28)

i just dusted off mine like a week ago... been shelved for a while..


just put the blitz altis 2.3 body on it

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Nice car you have there....

Are you going to run it again? And what steering system are you running?

Andrew

DJ_Shakespear

Hey guys, I have a question about the RD Logics Mongoose/TM G4 Evo:

The only reason I plan to get it is to have it more or less as a practice/basher at my local track before I start racing more competitively (against cars like the HK-1, Capricorn Lab and stuff like that) before getting either the Velox V10 '11 or the new V1 R4.

So, how does it handle/compare against the major players in 1/10 on-road? Does the cheaper price reflect how it's going to be?
It's not a big deal for me since where I plan to race it doesn't require a fairly precise setup - as long as it is in the right area it will be good enough.
OR is it just as good as the big boys? The plan is to either put in an RB T11 Junior or something on the lower-end of the performance scale before getting the big guns But if it's just as good, then it's going to be carrying an RB M3 '11