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Old 03-04-2011, 03:58 AM   #1
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Default Screws and 'screwed'

The four 2mm screws holding down the graphite battery tray are giving me grief. While waiting for the upgrade kit for the Velox V8, i cleaned up the entire car. Managed to remove 2 out of the 4 screws. the two remaining screws were tight and wont budge. finally took the trusty dremel and got them out with just a scratch to the batt tray. why didnt Shepherd just use more heavy duty 3mm screws? this 2mm screws are a unique size and it make me want to tap 3mm holes in the chassis just to accomodate the larger screws.

What do you all think? the screws werent bolted down tight, neither did i use much loctite...
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:19 AM   #2
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The four 2mm screws holding down the graphite battery tray are giving me grief. While waiting for the upgrade kit for the Velox V8, i cleaned up the entire car. Managed to remove 2 out of the 4 screws. the two remaining screws were tight and wont budge. finally took the trusty dremel and got them out with just a scratch to the batt tray. why didnt Shepherd just use more heavy duty 3mm screws? this 2mm screws are a unique size and it make me want to tap 3mm holes in the chassis just to accomodate the larger screws.

What do you all think? the screws werent bolted down tight, neither did i use much loctite...
Yep I had the same problems when I had my Velox, either the screws fell out and were hard to find replacements or they would seize in with the subsequent problem of trying to extract them so in the end I tapped the holes out to take the more usual 3mm screws of other makes and increased the countersink in the battery tray to suit, its quite an easy mod to do but have no idea really why Shepherd went the 2mm screw route in the first place ?
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:19 AM   #3
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The four 2mm screws holding down the graphite battery tray are giving me grief. While waiting for the upgrade kit for the Velox V8, i cleaned up the entire car. Managed to remove 2 out of the 4 screws. the two remaining screws were tight and wont budge. finally took the trusty dremel and got them out with just a scratch to the batt tray. why didnt Shepherd just use more heavy duty 3mm screws? this 2mm screws are a unique size and it make me want to tap 3mm holes in the chassis just to accomodate the larger screws.

What do you all think? the screws werent bolted down tight, neither did i use much loctite...
If screwing steel screws into Alu, it's not a good idea to loctite. Electrolysis naturally makes them lock up and my experience is that steel screws in an Alu bulkhead need regular removal and de-oxidation with WD40 crc or inox plus for best results.

No point complaining about 2mm screws until you've tried a 3/32nd imperial into Alu.. now those are a painful experience!

To get them out I used after run oil and soldering iron to heat up etc... good luck

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Old 03-04-2011, 07:30 AM   #4
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[QUOTE=blis;8745401]If screwing steel screws into Alu, it's not a good idea to loctite. Electrolysis naturally makes them lock up and my experience is that steel screws in an Alu bulkhead need regular removal and de-oxidation with WD40 crc or inox plus for best results.

Good point..on those screws that small steel to aluminum Ive been using anti-seize makes easier removal.
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:37 AM   #5
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[QUOTE=per4m28;8745450]
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If screwing steel screws into Alu, it's not a good idea to loctite. Electrolysis naturally makes them lock up and my experience is that steel screws in an Alu bulkhead need regular removal and de-oxidation with WD40 crc or inox plus for best results.

Good point..on those screws that small steel to aluminum Ive been using anti-seize makes easier removal.
Havent heard of anti-seize.. will look into it as more of the touring cars have alu bulkheads.

Cost me $150 for an old chassis and $150 worth of equipment to remove 4 screws. (Freeze, drills, lubes, screw removers, etc etc..) Nothing worked on one of them and I eventually had to drill the screw out.

What was astonishing was that the Alu mon the Losi JRXS-R was really Aircraft grade, having lost my cool I grabbed a tungsten drill bit and hand drilled with a makita cordless.. Complimenting the losi, to my surprise all those shards of metal were just the screw and the Alu wasnt even marked. Mighty hard Alu!!!

h
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:45 AM   #6
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[QUOTE=blis;8745480]
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Havent heard of anti-seize.. will look into it as more of the touring cars have alu bulkheads.

Cost me $150 for an old chassis and $150 worth of equipment to remove 4 screws. (Freeze, drills, lubes, screw removers, etc etc..) Nothing worked on one of them and I eventually had to drill the screw out.

What was astonishing was that the Alu mon the Losi JRXS-R was really Aircraft grade, having lost my cool I grabbed a tungsten drill bit and hand drilled with a makita cordless.. Complimenting the losi, to my surprise all those shards of metal were just the screw and the Alu wasnt even marked. Mighty hard Alu!!!

h
anti-seize or aslo called never seize
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:47 AM   #7
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[QUOTE=per4m28;8745523]
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anti-seize or aslo called never seize

Cool tks
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:16 AM   #8
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I have yet to have a problem with them. I use no locktite, just put them in nice and firm with a good quality driver and they come right out. Never had one loosen on it's own, never had one strip.

I do agree though that it would make a lot more sense to use a normal 3mm screw.
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:48 AM   #9
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Its all good now, gentlemen. Got the battery tray out and will retrofit 3mm screws or find replacement 2mm screws which wont strip or round off. I think the wd40 trick is a good idea.

Right now, the velox V8 is looking at me...waiting for her upgrades...
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