NTC3 and Evo 2 Sirio Clutch problem???
#1
NTC3 and Evo 2 Sirio Clutch problem???
my buddy has a ntc3 and just got a sirio evo2 and the shaft on the evo is to short for the ntc3 stock clutch? it doesnt stick out of the clutch bell enought to secure the screw? what is going on does he need a new clutch bell or bearings? any body help!!!
#2
Tech Apprentice
well .. I dont use sirio motors .. so this is just a guess .. but if its an SG shaft it might be the right length for a centax clutch rather than a stock assc shoe clutch .. also check that the flywheel is fully seated and maybe like on my mugen it might come with a case extension that is removable on the output shaft .. mine did and even on my threaded shaft mugen my stock assc clutch didnt fit until I removed that .. just a thought .. wish I had my cam here to take a pic for you .. but basically look for a rotating extension on the front of the case over the output shaft of the motor .. if its there take it off and see if you can shim the clutch on then .. just my thoughts on it .. and in two years of running the motor now .. no problems with removing that spacer/extension/whatever that was at the front of the motor
have fun racing
E
have fun racing
E
#3
In the NTC3 kit there is thin spacers included that you use on the M3 screw. They are a few tenths thick and 5 mm in diameter that goes inside the outer ballbearing... Use enough of them so there is some small play. I think we use 2 or 3 of the stock spacers with the Evo2. Use also the stock AE collet - not the Sirio one. Also check when you push the collet on the crank that it's not pushed into the engine...
#4
Sirio, unlike all other engine manufacturers, makes their shafts with 1mm or more thread than normal. Got the evo 2 legal threaded shaft and had to use shims to make space for the flywheel, it went further 1 or 2 mm, but it was the only way to make it fit into my losi truck. then my buddy had a factory tc3 with a sirio econo 12, once he adjusted the flywheel, there was some thread visible that will not let the bearing rest against the flywheel. we had to use a rotary tool with a sanding disc to literally eat that extra 1-2mm thread and the problem was solved. this happened to the sirio 12 sg shaft. if you are using a centax clutch no problem. do not forget to use the collect included with the kit and not the engine!
by the way, I-m assuming that it is a sg shaft, if it is the standard but hand made cut short version , more sanding discs will be neccesary to make space to the flywheel.
by the way, I-m assuming that it is a sg shaft, if it is the standard but hand made cut short version , more sanding discs will be neccesary to make space to the flywheel.
#6
Registered User
you have to shim the collet and the end brg. buy a couple Ae NTC3 clutch shikit and you should be able to make them work with stock Ae and centax clutches, I'never had any problems just shim it.
#7
Re: thanx
Originally posted by gentleman81
all that info was the best i could get!! thanks he will be happy, where can he get a centax for his ntc3 and evo 2?
all that info was the best i could get!! thanks he will be happy, where can he get a centax for his ntc3 and evo 2?
#8
u could also use a mugen clutch. i use an evo2 also,but to get the stock clutch to work use a rossi or mugen collet behind the flywheel. the assoc. is to thin and it makes the flywheel sit to far in. if u can just use the cyntax from mugen
#9
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by integ32
u could also use a mugen clutch. i use an evo2 also,but to get the stock clutch to work use a rossi or mugen collet behind the flywheel. the assoc. is to thin and it makes the flywheel sit to far in. if u can just use the cyntax from mugen
u could also use a mugen clutch. i use an evo2 also,but to get the stock clutch to work use a rossi or mugen collet behind the flywheel. the assoc. is to thin and it makes the flywheel sit to far in. if u can just use the cyntax from mugen
I am concern about the extra space that the clutch will take, if you see the Mugen MTX3 clutch, the thrust bearing part and the coned shape spacer takes a lot of extra space compare to the stock clutch...I am not sure I have to CUT some plastic things off the rear diff case in order to give some space for that extra spacing....please advise.
#10
direct fit. the clutch shims u have to play with. u need to put more than average because the spurs sit close to eachother. check the clutch play, make sure it spins freely but when it engages it does not hit the first gear spur.