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Old 01-29-2011, 06:28 AM   #31
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Thanks so much for the info.

Don't I need to comply with regulations to enter a race?
I am pretty sure my TT01 no longer complies with any regulations. I just ordered one of these

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=34312

I can always install the stock one I guess but what's the point?
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:35 AM   #32
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That motor will scare you to death,lol, 3.5t maybe alittle on the wild side, be careful when gearing that mate, on stock gearing that will over heat big time
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:39 AM   #33
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In electric you have 4 classes basically, 10.5t motor/13.5/17.5 or full blown mod, the class that's seems to be most popular club racing is 13.5

You decided on an ic motor then?
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:42 AM   #34
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Stock gear is 19t pinion and 61t spur. It is the lowest it will go as far as I know and it is comes from the factory with the TT-01E. I got no idea how to reduce it further but it shouldn't really be a heavy load on this motor. If anything the new motor should have a walk in the park and most likely will spin the tires forever.

Or am i totally wrong? Do I need more load on the new motor? I did buy a heatsink for it and i got some good quality ceramic thermal paste here.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:50 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas1 View Post
In electric you have 4 classes basically, 10.5t motor/13.5/17.5 or full blown mod, the class that's seems to be most popular club racing is 13.5

You decided on an ic motor then?
Ah, I see. So basically with the new motor i will be on the fully modded class. Interesting.

About the nitro motor, i only know it will be novarossi. Possibly something at competition level but not the extreme tuned stuff that puts out almost 2HP.

I will first assemble the car and then decide on motor and battery pack/receiver. I did get the servos for it because i found a decent offer for them but I would like to learn a bit more about batteries and receivers before i decide on those.
All I know so far is that LiPo packs scare me to death. They seem to explode if you look at them the wrong way. I already got a charger for NiMH so I will probably stick to those packs. They seem to be far safer too.
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:08 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
I got two of these for the C01.

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=36399

For steering and throttle/brake. I hope I made the right choice
Those will suit the car perfectly.

Shock and differential oils are supplied with the kit.
For greasing the driveshafts and trust bearing I would advice Hudy graphite grease.

You will need the following tools for the kit:

Allen wrenches:
-1.5
-2.0
-2.5
-3.0

-2.5 ball end

Nut wrenches:

-5.0
-7.0

-A sharp cutter
-3mm reamer for the arms
-Long needle nose pliers

For the engine and clutch:

-Adjustable pliers or a special flywheel holder tool
-Glowplug wrench
-Glowplug starter

-Some tape for the battery

Also a set of calipers is something which is good to have in general.

For the Nova TS-1 engine I would recommend the Nova 2601 pipe with a short header. You also need an airfilter for the engine. I don't know if an INS box is mandatory for racing in the UK but I would get an INS box style filter anyway. I really like the Xceed version, good quality filter with a nice small housing.

For the tools I would recommend EDS tools, these are of very good quality (I've sold of all my Hudy tools to get EDS instead) but are very well priced.
Plus they match the coloring of the Lab-C01.

I don't know if the EDS tools are available in Europe, I ordered them from Hongkong at RCmarket.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPa...a&filter_id=27

At Rcmarket they also have the airfilter and any other stuff you might need.
Downside is you will have to wait 2-3 weeks before your stuff arrives while your car is already waiting to be assembled.
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:33 AM   #37
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ok, i will try to get those tools. i already have some of them.
I already have plenty of left over grease from my TT-01. Will that do for the shafts?
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:33 AM   #38
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I have to say mate, I commend you. You are ovbiously doing your research and not going into this totally blind. That is definitely a good thing. People that don't do what you are doing quickly become confused, disillusioned, over their head and loose interest because it simply becomes too hard. It will all come together and make sense, I promise. As I've eluded to before, if it was dead easy, absolutely everyone would do it......
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:46 AM   #39
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i got a little advantage because of my mech engineering background.
I can understand very well the mechanics of the cars, even the advanced suspension adjustments. I am just not familiar with the terminology and the brands/parts etc etc. There is so much to learn and I have always wanted to do this. So far I am loving every moment of it apart from the moment where I realised I spent around 800 for the C01 plus servos and upgrade parts for the TT01
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:52 AM   #40
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I have for many years had a saying - IF IT HAS TITS OR WHEELS IT IS BOUND TO COST YOU MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:58 AM   #41
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wise words
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:26 AM   #42
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What type of body shell do i get for the C01?
How do I find out if the body mounts will fit? Is it 190mm or 200? How do I make sure the holes for the engine heatsink and air filter are in the right place?
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:06 AM   #43
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I don't actually race the touring so I'll let someone else tell you which one, but it's the likes of protoform p37n, that style, you want 200mm!
As for holes, the engine/airfilter will be inside the body! You need to make holes to keep the motor cool, usually remove the rear window and 2 front side windows, then a 50mm hole in the front windscreen/roof for refueling
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:16 AM   #44
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So i can't really fit a shell from a 190mm electric?
I was hoping they would match so I can get some pre-made shells that I really like.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:24 AM   #45
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Not really mate, best I can offer is semi painted like these, but your not gona get away without doing some work yourself unless you buy cheaper rtr cars
http://www.rc-direct.co.uk/team-tita...mm-p-4214.html
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