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Old 01-26-2011, 03:53 PM   #31
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The velox v10 has it according to the specs on the site. At least that's what I understood.
It's just that it is near impossible to find any info on the capricorn. I have looked everywhere and i can't find detailed specs. Certainly not on the official site. Can anyone help? i am torn between velox and capricorn and it would be nice to have a straight comparison between them.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:05 PM   #32
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Just look at the results from the 2010 IFMAR Worlds. Just about every chassis was represented (TQ was set by a 100 year old Mugen!). Go with availability and local support. You'd be supprised at how quickly you get up to speed with a new car when you can share setups with your fellow racers.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:13 PM   #33
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Can't help on a comparison, but I have to say the v10 is the easiest car I've ever worked, belts can be changed in minutes, a big plus when club racing n pushed for time! Lots of nice touches on the car that set it apart from the rest, that's what drew me to it.
If you want a car in the uk too race and be able to buy parts track side at a national you have 4 choices really- 733 nt1 v10 and Edam there the only cars with good support! I'm sure the Capricorn is a great car but to race it your gona have to stock your own spares unfortunately.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:26 PM   #34
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Thanks, I hope the info helps the OP too.

I won't be racing the car. Not any time soon anyway so i can't really make my decision based on what has good track-side support. I just go with what looks attractive really so my liking for v10 or capricorn is really skin deep
So you say that any of those competitive cars out there will be able to deliver the goods anyhow so it is only down to track-side support to make the decision. And since i am not gonna be doing any track days, the conclusion is to buy whatever looks good to me?
I mean, the main reason the capricorn was immediately added to my shortlist (apart from good looks) is that it comes with all the upgrade parts in the box. Can't beat that I suppose.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Nope, you are going to get tired of breaking composite differential gears, CVDs and Kevlar pulleys (if you use em)...

The NT1 wear rate is way much lower than any other car on the market (except maybe the MTX4)...

The WC or 2010 version has everything you possibly would need in a car.

Only upgrade I have seen as "essential" are aftermarket pulleys on the sidebelt, but that is due to a very dirty track I race on.

I have held the KM in my hands, and even though it is a well thought design... Once you have built a Xray kit, you are never going to look back anywhere else... Everything has a perfect fit...
What the hell are you talking about???

I've run my set of composite diff parts for 25 liters this season and they are still going strong in one of my NT1's a friend of mine bought of me.
If you're breaking the diffs either your diff is worn out, the little pins which hold the gears need to be new when you switch to these gears, or you've hit a wall quite hard which locked up the drivetrain and caused more stress to the gears then what they are designed to cope with.

The aluminum driveshafts and CVD's are very strong.
When I just got my lab I made a little mistake and I hit the concrete pitwall head on with my front left tire. This caused the steering turnbuckle to break (3racing part) which caused the steering knuckle to be turned a lot further then it supposed to do.
This caused the following damage:



As you can see the shaft was damaged, but the steel wheelaxle was damaged as well, this shows it was quite a hard impact. However the wheelaxle wasn't bend or anything, just the damage you can see on the picture.
After that I ran 1 entire race weekend and 1100 laps of testing with the same axle and it's still going strong.

And what's wrong with the pulleys?
Overhere every one is loving them since they make the drivetrain even smoother (also on the NT1), they don't attract dirt and they hardly wear.

If you ask me the quality of the Lab surpasses that of Xray. The entire drivetrain is completely free of any play, even when not running the grubscrews in the cvd's. The steering is completely free of slop.
The fit of the bearings is just perfect in all the aluminum parts as well as in the plastic parts.
The machining is the best I've seen in the RC industry.

I could also post a list with the things I think are wrong with the NT1, but I choose not to since this would turn into bashing and that;s a thing I hate and it is something only losers do.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:28 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
You can not say that the Cap is the best car. But you can say it is the most expensive.


Pass you soon...
If you look at all the features it comes with it's actually good value if you ask me. The NT1 WC costs more and has less features if you ask me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
I agree with jas1... Almost all cars have the same amount of adjustments...

I don't know if the Capricorn has adjustable wheelbase like the Xray NT1 2010 does. Or if the Shepherd has it...
The lab has adjustable wheelbase in the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
it seems i can buy it straight from their site and i am guessing it will ship from italy. currency is euros on the site so it must be coming from italy.
It's not so much about the best. I am interested in the widest range of adjustment for the chassis and suspension geometry. More of a technical exercise than a race project.
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
The velox v10 has it according to the specs on the site. At least that's what I understood.
It's just that it is near impossible to find any info on the capricorn. I have looked everywhere and i can't find detailed specs. Certainly not on the official site. Can anyone help? i am torn between velox and capricorn and it would be nice to have a straight comparison between them.
The stock setup of the car is very good and gets you in the ballpark on pretty much every track.
It reacts very well to setup changes and clearly lets you know if you're going in the right direction in terms of setup.

Some addtionel setp options the Lab has compared to other brands:

-Possibility to run hard or soft plastics depending on grip level and track surface
- Possibility to change the lower rear shock position by carbon brackets.
- You can choose in either running a blade type anti rollbar in the front (standard) or a wire type.

I agree with you the Capricorn website could use a bit more info, especially because the car has such interesting specifications.

Here a list of the main features:

-Lowest CG of all 1/10 cars.
-Smallest gearbox of all 1/10 cars
-Lightweight aluminium driveshafts throughout
-Magnesium radiotray supports
-Titanium nitride coated shock shafts with delrin shock guides and shock pistons.
-Low friction belts throughout as standard
-Aluminum bulkheads
-Lightest differentials because of composite diff gears and lightweight outdrives.
-The famous Capricorn clutch supplied with the kit

I've also made a build report about my car:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ml#post8080430

If you have any further questions you can also ask me by PM.
I'm also happy to help you out with the cars setup, I've helped Capricorn drivers from all around the globe to dial in their car by advising them through pm or email.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:34 PM   #37
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awesome stuff!! thanks so much!
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:09 PM   #38
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Sorry, I have seen too many diffs from NT1, Lab cars and even 733s, including my own, to recommend anyone to use the composite gears... That is unless they are planning to change them each two race meets...

If they have hold you up for 1100 laps, good for you and everyone on your track.

And Capricorn CVD wear rate and break is so high, people over here are using NT1 CVDs on their cars...

Remember that we don't have grass for when one makes a mistake... its either a board or a concrete block where we end...

And the Kevlar pulley set gave out on my friend in his fifth race... First the 27T in one qualifier, then the 25T in the other... whereas my CSO pullies have had 2 full seasons of racing...

Like I said... Capricorn is an awesome car, I can't and won't deny it... Just need to have a deep pocket for it, or NT1 parts on it....
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:22 AM   #39
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1. pick a local hobby shop that you wish to spend your money.
2. look for the car you like.
3. consider the spare parts availability factor and spare part prices before you buy that car.
4. go home and enjoy building it.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:34 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
1. pick a local hobby shop that you wish to spend your money.
2. look for the car you like.
3. consider the spare parts availability factor and spare part prices before you buy that car.
4. go home and enjoy building it.
+1 on that.
Im even undecided on which one to get after my car is retired.
The Capricorn is #1 so far, everybody around runs it, but I also love the simplicity of the Velox too, so Im a little torn between the two.
I would still go the Lab, but that's just my decision.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:17 AM   #41
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Sure the Lab is one of the best quality cars on the RC market.
But like as asw7576 said before. The most important thing is the parts support in your local country and the support itself.
In Switzerland we have both distributors, Capricorn and Shepherd.
But to be honest, the parts prizes are that high as I would rather go with the V10.
The V10 is also coming out this year as a "V10 eleven" version!
Also on their Site they have a really good technical support.
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:54 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Sorry, I have seen too many diffs from NT1, Lab cars and even 733s, including my own, to recommend anyone to use the composite gears... That is unless they are planning to change them each two race meets...

If they have hold you up for 1100 laps, good for you and everyone on your track.

And Capricorn CVD wear rate and break is so high, people over here are using NT1 CVDs on their cars...

Remember that we don't have grass for when one makes a mistake... its either a board or a concrete block where we end...

And the Kevlar pulley set gave out on my friend in his fifth race... First the 27T in one qualifier, then the 25T in the other... whereas my CSO pullies have had 2 full seasons of racing...

Like I said... Capricorn is an awesome car, I can't and won't deny it... Just need to have a deep pocket for it, or NT1 parts on it....
Well ok, seems to me it has something to do with the US style tracks since here in Europe the breaking diffs or driveshafts aren't a problem.

1100 laps? That's just with the Lab, with my NT1 I did 8000+ laps last year with the composite diff parts.

But off course a springsteel driveshaft is stronger then the aluminum driveshaft and if your bouncing of the boards and broken 2-3 driveshafts it is wise to replace them with steel ones.
But I don't think this can be blamed on the kit, more on the driver and the track design.

I don't think you can say the kevlar pulleys are no good just because a friend wrecked them after five races. I don't know how he maintained his car, how the belt tension was, how dirty track he was running on.
I can only say I went through a set of Xray pulleys and belts every two races with my NT1, this is in a car with a very aggressive clutch and high power engines. This is pretty normal for a fast driver.

Don't know about the deep pocket, here in Europe the Lab parts are pretty close to Xray parts in terms of pricing.
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:19 AM   #43
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Every time that the talk is about our composite diff gears all people not using the LAB C01 complain against them... saying that they warn out very fast.. and that they get broked.
But after u find them everywhere into Hudy diffs... Km diffs.. *and everybody try to fit them in their own diffs..

It's like to ask someone if he goes with easy woman... *he will answer u of course NO!! *but after all the nights are full *!!

It's obvious that 25grs less into diffs make a greath difference.
A lot of drivers use them. At WC they were used by Burch... as well as the brake disk and brake pads.. and the CU-Be engine mount.
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:49 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapricornRC View Post
Every time that the talk is about our composite diff gears all people not using the LAB C01 complain against them... saying that they warn out very fast.. and that they get broked.
But after u find them everywhere into Hudy diffs... Km diffs.. *and everybody try to fit them in their own diffs..

It's like to ask someone if he goes with easy woman... *he will answer u of course NO!! *but after all the nights are full *!!

It's obvious that 25grs less into diffs make a greath difference.
A lot of drivers use them. At WC they were used by Burch... as well as the brake disk and brake pads.. and the CU-Be engine mount.
Capricorn drivers might or might not complain... But I do know of several Capricorn LAB-C01 cars that have broken their composite differential gears within a few race days...

The whole differential might weight 1 gram... But if it means there's a possibility you'll get a DNF from it, you might think twice ...
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:41 PM   #45
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Hands down best car for you money is the Capricorn!!!!
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