ziggy12345

Hi

No not fragile just my driving is bad. It was keeping up with the evolva and the mugen. Nice car for a cheap price

dragonal

Thanks

on Italy not more chep...~500 euro (mugen mrx-4 550euro..)

only the RTR is a good price ~400 euro

wagnerov

iTrader: (4)

As Ron from Duneland said, the A and B steering blocks are for changing your ackerman settings. Since we've always been trying to get the car to be more responsive around tight corners, most drivers use the B block with the steering arms mounted to the forward holes. Try driving with the A block first, and then change to the B block without changing any other settings. The difference can be immediately noticed (from my personal experience).

bam167

Well, hello everybody, glad to see this form is starting to pick up a bit. Well my name is bambino from New York City and my cars goes by the name of (Mugen Killer) thats on the track First i must say, i never thought i was able to race 1/8 scale due to the price tag's. So i had to stick with 1/10 scale for 2 years. Last year i heard that a company call Power Racing came out with a 1/8 scale that was affordable. I think I asked everybody who had mugen's, could this car hold up and all the answer's I got from everybody was (NO). I think that's what push me even more to see what this 1/8 scale can do and to prove to people that it doesn't matter what kind of car you have, it's how you drive it. I bought this car last year with only 2 race's to go until the end of the season. I used the first race just to see what had to be done to this car, keep in mind I never drove an 1/8 scale before. The first race was held at Floyd Bennett Field in Brooklyn. My biggest problem was I didn't have a motor for this car but thank's to Richie Torres and my master mechanic Mikey Mike, they lend me a Mega 21ZX motor. As soon as we started up the car to tune the motor, the clutch bell got caught up on Mikey's sweater and the centax clutch bell blue up in pieces. That was the end of my day but being I was so determiem to run this car, my mugen centax clutch bell 1/10 scale was going to be used but with H.P.I's R40 1st and 2nd gears 17t and 21t but with xr 8 gears 49t and 45t. Everything went well from there until the main race which was the b main, some body hit me so hard that it ripped out my all my wires from the servo's trans. and receiver. Ended my day but I went home proud of my new 1/8 scale and with a few thing's to work on. There was 5 heats A,B,C,and D nothing but Mrx 3's 4's and Serpent. So it's to show ya that with the right set up this car can hold its own. I'll write about the next race in a few, just going to look for my race times from Conn.

ziggy12345

I paid 140 euros for mine and got the pro kit, a starter box, 3 sets of tyres and 2 body shells.... I then paid 400 for an engine!!

dragonal

WOW !!

is used or new ? because is new please tell me how found at this price !!!!

ziggy12345

It was used once! I can try to find one for you at a good price. I will send you PM if I can find one OK!

I am gettting an Evolva so might sell this one. My friend has first choice though OK

Cheers

dragonal

Thanks !!

I want found a car before spring....

ziggy12345

Dragonal PM

ziggy12345

Where can I get hop ups for the XR-8 online? I need the front machine bumper and the bronze roll centre inserts

Cheers

bam167

Hey guy's anybody on this form running this car that's from the new york city side? If so let me know what track you'll racing at this year, would love to find a co-racer

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

A lot of guys from the NYC area will be racing at the new permanant euro-style on-road track in Bridgeport, CT...about 45-60 minute drive from NYC.

Check out www.barcarrc.com site for details and race schedule

captian

ha just come out and see us at floyed there some guys running the car out there . and all the other top cars are out there too . and some one is there just about every week end .when the season starts
www.frracer.com.

RedRocket

I am trying to put my clutch on the engine. now, i have a collet that came with two shims. when i put two shims behind the collet, the threaded adapter touchs the flywheel and locks it into place. but then, the threaded adapter doesnt go on far enough so that i can correctly gap the clutch. so, somehow, i need to possibly get another adapter, that will allow me to thread it down more. Its as if the thread on the crank is too short. so, what can i use?

captian

well the shims in the back of the flywheel are to space it out so you do not have to use as many on the clutch bell . maybe you are using too many of them in the back of the flywheel . here is a good start 0.5mm shim in the back of the flywheel and then set the rest of the clutch.