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Old 06-08-2005, 10:29 AM   #466
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R40Victim,

Some of the manuals show to put the 4 clutch shoes over the flywheel pins. The shoes should go between the pins...that would keep the clutch from engaging properly. That part of the manual has bitten a bunch of people so far!

The 3 springs are different, but only for tuning purposes...they all "work" one way or another. The silver spring is the softest, and I don't like it very much because the clutch gets heavy after only about 2-3 minutes of running and the car loses all bottom end. Then there is a small black spring which is about the same length as the silver one, but it has less coils...this would be a good starting spring. The third big black spring is obviously thicker and longer with less coils. I haven't used it yet, but it looks like it would work well with the red rulon shoe for a real snappy response on a high bite track.

Anyway, using the small black spring, have about .5mm of thread showing from the top of the clutch nut to the clutch spring adjuster. That's the easy thing to set. So that leaves the "gap", or how hard the clutch engages. Usually you only want about 1mm of side-to-side (in-n-out!) movement with the clutch bell, sometimes more, sometimes less depending on track conditions. Too much gap, and your engine will rev up without going anywhere. The gap is adjusted using the 5mm shims between the thrust bearing and the bearing holder.

Make sure the clutch bell spins freely, too...that could also be the problem.
Sometimes the crank on the engine is too short, and when you tighten the thrust bearing down it locks the clutch bell in place. In which case, just buy an OFNA clutch shim kit, and you'll see what looks like a small brass extension for the crankchaft. Those things are worth their weight in gold, don't lose them!

I know it's not a very scientific explanation like some other manufacturers, but it should hopefully get the job done.
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:01 AM   #467
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"Some of the manuals show to put the 4 clutch shoes over the flywheel pins. The shoes should go between the pins...that would keep the clutch from engaging properly. That part of the manual has bitten a bunch of people so far!"

Thank You Very Much...that's precisly what's wrong. I know they're over the pins, because it didn't clearify. I wondered about that, and couldn't remember the last time I had my other centax apart. I'll rebuild it...again...tonight and try it out. I bet it'll be fully functional after that. Thanks again.
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:40 AM   #468
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Well I put my car through some paces yesterday at a LARGE track. I used some new updated part, such as the Nylon arms(Very NICE), steel clutch bell, CVD'S frt and rear, and alloy servo saver. The car had alot of oversteer through out the day, but was consistently fast. At such high speeds of theses cars, ALL cars were breakinng in one fashion or another. I broke a old style frt bulkhead, so I opted to install my new beefier bulkheads, I must say this was my last material failure for the day...... The rest were Driver errors. The rulon clutch, with the steel clutchbell worked well, I played with frt roll center changed, and castor angles alot. I need to raise the rear camber link on the hub by about 4mm, I hope there is enough space for it. Also I want to remove the rear swaybar, and lighten oil in the shocks. I think this will help a lot. Next week for more testing. Everyone that saw the car was very impressed, as was I.
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:49 AM   #469
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But with the hop-ups it's not any cheaper than any other car........
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Old 06-13-2005, 06:42 AM   #470
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The price of the hop ups are much cheaper than opposing companies. But are not needed...
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Old 06-14-2005, 05:56 PM   #471
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Hi

Maybe you guys talked about this already but I don't have time to read all threads. What are your experiences with the 6 screws for the motor? I never find that I can secure those types of screw as well as phillips. How does it hold up on this car? Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2005, 08:15 PM   #472
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I've had no trouble with mine. I prefer hex drive/alan/set screws over phillups... Just use blue thread lock, they should hold just fine.
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Old 06-15-2005, 05:00 AM   #473
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Yellowtaro,
the six screws play two roles on the chassis. First it stiffens the chassis at this point tremendously, Second it holds the motor in more securely then a Pitbull in a pit fight. I cant see how you would prefer a philips screw head from a allen type head especially for a screw such as this. This past weekend I watched a fellow racer running another make car, drow out of two heats due to motor movement(loosened), even using blue locktite he still was plauged by this all day. I have not even experienced flex, let alone loosening. I hope this helps.
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:19 AM   #474
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was GREAT running w/ you last Sunday!

Your car was running good too!
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Old 06-15-2005, 08:08 AM   #475
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Likewise Adlawoo, but who is this? I dont recognize the screen name?
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:03 PM   #476
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I apologize...we are at the same "main", my car was the blue & white - were at it for a couple of laps then you pass me then didn't see you after that - you said after the race was something about the servo.
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:54 PM   #477
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Hey Adlawoo I remember helpin ya in the past with a NEO ATTACK 235mm car. Do you still have it? What do you race at Floyd and where else do you race? I have an R40 (Rody V12) and a MRX4 ( TOP PT21 SP1), but I may drive the 8th for a bit instead. The R40 I drove there a while back, but with MT12. Do you run an XR8 also?
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:04 PM   #478
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Raul,
Where did you run your car? I'm in Ct. also and was thinking of buying one of these cars but didn't think there was anywhere to run them. Let me know, and if it's close enough I might pick one of these car up. The only place I could think of is Middlebury but they only run 2 times a month.
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:03 PM   #479
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DJ, what part of Connecticut are you in?
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Old 06-16-2005, 04:21 AM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJG24
Raul,
Where did you run your car? I'm in Ct. also and was thinking of buying one of these cars but didn't think there was anywhere to run them. Let me know, and if it's close enough I might pick one of these car up. The only place I could think of is Middlebury but they only run 2 times a month.
Djg24,
right now there is Middlebury, CT (Nercar.com), Bridgeport, CT (Acesnitrorc.com), Edison, NJ (Brucknerhobbies.com). These are the most local, but as you know the freaks travel everywhere, as do I.

Get the car you wont be dissapointed, unfortunately I wont be at Nercar this weekend since they race on Father's Day??

Adlawoo,
yeah the car was rockin', but I dint put enough gosh darn locktiye on the servo horn screw. Next time......
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