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Old 08-05-2004, 12:09 PM   #1
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Default new engine woes (novarossi rs12)

welp i am took my lunch break and decided to get my new novarossi rs12 its first start. it took some serious convincing to get it started. but once started, it was awesome!!! all rich and all it idled quite nicely. well i ran it for about 58 seconds then turned it off. went into the house to handle a certain peice of business and came back out to start it up again... (the good news ends here).

it seems the piston is stuck at the top of the cylinder... i didnt turn it back down when i stopped the engine, and now i have a full fledged situation on my hands. looks like i will have to take the engine out and grab the channel lock pliers on this one.

so always remember, dont leave it top dead.


now may be a good time to also ask, with so many ways to break in engines, which way do you guys like the most lately? also is anyone familar with the novarossi carb. i have open 1/2 from the factory default. should i have more or less for the break in?


late!
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:15 PM   #2
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Default Re: new engine woes (novarossi rs12)

install the flywheel, tighten it, then turn the wheel counter-clockwise, you should be able to relieve the piston from the lock-up. no need to take the engine apart.

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Originally posted by packetdreamer
welp i am took my lunch break and decided to get my new novarossi rs12 its first start. it took some serious convincing to get it started. but once started, it was awesome!!! all rich and all it idled quite nicely. well i ran it for about 58 seconds then turned it off. went into the house to handle a certain peice of business and came back out to start it up again... (the good news ends here).

it seems the piston is stuck at the top of the cylinder... i didnt turn it back down when i stopped the engine, and now i have a full fledged situation on my hands. looks like i will have to take the engine out and grab the channel lock pliers on this one.

so always remember, dont leave it top dead.


now may be a good time to also ask, with so many ways to break in engines, which way do you guys like the most lately? also is anyone familar with the novarossi carb. i have open 1/2 from the factory default. should i have more or less for the break in?


late!
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:18 PM   #3
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Default Re: Re: new engine woes (novarossi rs12)

Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
install the flywheel, tighten it, then turn the wheel counter-clockwise, you should be able to relieve the piston from the lock-up. no need to take the engine apart.
i was not going to take the engine apart . what do you mean by "install the flywheel/tighten it"? the flywheel is on the egine. and not matter which way i turn it it wont budge (and i'm not weakling).
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:36 PM   #4
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Default Re: Re: Re: new engine woes (novarossi rs12)

Quote:
Originally posted by packetdreamer
i was not going to take the engine apart . what do you mean by "install the flywheel/tighten it"? the flywheel is on the egine. and not matter which way i turn it it wont budge (and i'm not weakling).
Of course, your engine and flywheel and clutch are all in place...the best way to do that is using a long FLAT HEAD screw driver, the flat head pointing toward the edge of the FLYWHEEL, and gently TAP the screwdriver....after several light tapping, it should UNLOCK and turn the piston over from your new engine...

Nova Rossi based engines (or any new high end engines) are very tight at the beginning, espeically the break in period, that is a good thing.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:40 PM   #5
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take the glow plug out and use a wooden pin and tap on it with a small hammer to get it from tdc.

break-in: run it like or in a race (practice). run it at the temp. that you will always run it. running it at a cool temp will wear the piston premeturly(sp). it can also distort the brass in the con rod. to rich will put to much fuel in the chamber. which in turn ='s to much oil in the chamber and you can't compress oil and that can distort the con rod.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by icm
take the glow plug out and use a wooden pin and tap on it with a small hammer to get it from tdc.

Don't do this-you will ruin the piston.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by icm
take the glow plug out and use a wooden pin and tap on it with a small hammer to get it from tdc.
That..............is a NO NO, on those OS cheapo engine, that might work, for some $200 engine, probably not. I am sure the wooden pin methrod can work, but if there is a simple and SAFE way to solve the problem, why risk the $120 Piston and Sleeves....?
And yes, removing the plug and TAP the flywheel would HELP...also, once the P/S got loose, break in your engine with the glow plug 1/2 IN......if you tighten up the glow plug, it will get lock up again, cause the new engine has too much compression.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
That..............is a NO NO, on those OS cheapo engine, that might work, for some $200 engine, probably not. I am sure the wooden pin methrod can work, but if there is a simple and SAFE way to solve the problem, why risk the $120 Piston and Sleeves....?
And yes, removing the plug and TAP the flywheel would HELP...also, once the P/S got loose, break in your engine with the glow plug 1/2 IN......if you tighten up the glow plug, it will get lock up again, cause the new engine has too much compression.
running with the plug half in? it won't rattle out?
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by icm
take the glow plug out and use a wooden pin and tap on it with a small hammer to get it from tdc.

break-in: run it like or in a race (practice). run it at the temp. that you will always run it. running it at a cool temp will wear the piston premeturly(sp). it can also distort the brass in the con rod. to rich will put to much fuel in the chamber. which in turn ='s to much oil in the chamber and you can't compress oil and that can distort the con rod.
How many engines do you ruin doing it this way? Do'nt want to burst your bubble icm, but that is the worse thing you can do to a new engine. Running it cool will NOT distort the brass in the con rod. Loading up the cylinder with fuel and still try to start it can and probably will bend the conrod, but not cool running temp.
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:00 PM   #10
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unless its the only way, i am not interested in tapping anything too much on this engine. my wife said that i better make this sucka last.
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:10 PM   #11
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ruin! i have not ruin one. they all run up front. the ones i have mod. and brake in for others run right up front.

if you don't like it don't do it.
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:15 PM   #12
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Thumbs up gettin' interesting...

well, my wife said I'd better tap and make it last.

Quote:
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... i am not interested in tapping anything too much... my wife said that i better make this sucka last.
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:19 PM   #13
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in the mean while, any ideas on the factory novarossi carb setting? do they set it rich?
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:30 PM   #14
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not really, the rb is like 2.5 lsn, 5 hsn. My RS12 was about 3 and 4, respectively.

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in the mean while, any ideas on the factory novarossi carb setting? do they set it rich?
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Old 08-05-2004, 01:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
not really, the rb is like 2.5 lsn, 5 hsn. My RS12 was about 3 and 4, respectively.
ok. so i will richen it up when i go back to break in.
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