rif5

Hello,
I have a capricorn and I wanted to know which option to add to the original kit?

speed6

Spring to a softer version, yellow clutch.
I also tried the new chassis felt better with improved steering.
Rear carbon suspension lower holders upgraded to steel.

The rest is all great!

speed6

So I received the softer clutch spring and set it wit .6 gap and 0.1 endplay, 1.0 preload on spring.

Need more punch as it engaging to smooth and early. What do you suggest more tension on spring or a larger gap between the pad?

xtremes

I would suggest that you tighten the spring pre-load until the clutch start slipping, then back it up about a 1/4 of a turn....You don't want the clutch to engage too fast when you first start the engine because later on,when the clutch gets hot, it will grap too much or too fast making it feel heavy.

speed6

Thanks for this tip worked awesome!

speed6

Hey people getting the car better and better but I want the steering to be more fast problematic scenario coming for a turn, decrease speed ( off power ) but as soon as I turn, the car doesn't just go where it's pointed it's takes quite some time like a slight delay than mid to exit turn and once i apply throttle steering is great.

How can I make the steering more reactive plz

Curlzz [DF1ANT]

try the outside position on the front roll centre and readjust your track width or bring back your ackerman position and readjust your toe out

rif5

Thank you for the answers but I still have question

what is the diference between front upper bulkhead NEW version and the original?
you use Duomi BAR (CAP-2154), which has its uses?
using the anti-roll bar CAP-2151K, it is better than the original?

Thanks for your answers.

Phil Trotta

iTrader: (4)

The rear end has alot of traction. Try .5-1 degree rear toe in with 3 mm spacer between link and upright ( rear ). Also I ran 6 droop rear with front axle lowering eccentrics

speed6

When you say track width are you speaking about the front by making it narrower?

Ackerman Position - you mean to move the servo saver one hole back ?

And toe out to increase front toe?

Thanks

speed6

The 3mm spacer between link and upright, you refer to the external hubs upper part where the link gets attached on the external part of the car i.e. altering CG

Re Front axle lowering eccentrics, mine arent adjustable is this a hop-up? And what does it do exactly?

Thanks

desotoracing

For more steering use Capricorn 32/40 fronts or if your are using normal 32f & 35r then narrow the front and/or rear.

If you want more turn in and overall steering narrow the front. If you want more rotation then narrow the rear.

We run the front between 250 and 254mm. The rear between 263 and 266mm.

speed6

Polite reminder re lowering the fron axle eccentrics .

xtremes

One thing that I've learned about RC cars setup is that when it comes to getting more traction (steering in your case) on either end of a car, the most important adjustments are tires, springs and droop. If you lack steering coming into a turn you should play with the rear droop of the car. The more droop you have on the rear of the car, the more weight is transfer to the front of the car which will give you more traction (steering) on the front axle. Also running a stiffer rear sway bar is of great help, but be careful not to over do it.
If you lack steering out of a turn try to minimize the front droop and maybe run stiffer rear springs.
Later, I will post a link to an article I read about a month ago which really helped me a lot. It discusses some of these issues with more details.

speed6

Thanks bud!

Tried adding more droop in the rear by almost 2 mm but still far from the steering i want. I will try softer front spring but my issue is that when the cars get to around 4mm of front foam it starts hitting the front part of the chassis under braking and makes me loose to much steering. So softer spring will just make it worse

Will still give it a try