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Old 08-17-2012, 04:03 PM   #721
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Originally Posted by Stuff Of Legend View Post
Is the front F1 anti-roll bar/blade adjustable unlike the normal wire bar or is it fixed?
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1804
No, the Front F1 sway bar is not ajustable. Adjusting is made by replacing the
sway blade. Options are 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5mm
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1806
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:04 PM   #722
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ok thanks
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:31 PM   #723
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Hey all just finished building the kit and I had some issues along the way..Nothing major, but just little niggle here and there.

Manual missing pages (corrupt pdf) Pages 5, 42, 45
Missing Screws (M3x8 Flanged for rear body post, M2.5x8 for linkage mounting)
Pins are wrong length (Front wheel mount/Rear wheel mount) 1 x 3x19.8 Pin and 3 x 3x21.8 pins when it should be two of each.

Shock pre load adjuster: Anodizing not quite cleaned up meaning the o-ring wouldn't fit, nothing a scalpel couldn't fix, but still !

Manual seems to be wrong in a few places too ? Clutch step says to use a 5x10x4 bearing and two 5x8x2.5 bearings, doesn't mention the 5x10x4 that's in the bell itself !

Rear roll centres: Manual suggests to start with the centre ones, but with this the body mount hits in the rear belt, using low roll centre inserts means it clears...

These are all fairly minor problems, but still with such an expensive kit, I expected more I guess.

It's ready now, and I'm hoping to run it this weekend, hopefully I can get the radio gear installed in time
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:50 PM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Hey all just finished building the kit and I had some issues along the way..Nothing major, but just little niggle here and there.

Manual missing pages (corrupt pdf) Pages 5, 42, 45
Missing Screws (M3x8 Flanged for rear body post, M2.5x8 for linkage mounting)
Pins are wrong length (Front wheel mount/Rear wheel mount) 1 x 3x19.8 Pin and 3 x 3x21.8 pins when it should be two of each.

Shock pre load adjuster: Anodizing not quite cleaned up meaning the o-ring wouldn't fit, nothing a scalpel couldn't fix, but still !

Manual seems to be wrong in a few places too ? Clutch step says to use a 5x10x4 bearing and two 5x8x2.5 bearings, doesn't mention the 5x10x4 that's in the bell itself !

Rear roll centres: Manual suggests to start with the centre ones, but with this the body mount hits in the rear belt, using low roll centre inserts means it clears...

These are all fairly minor problems, but still with such an expensive kit, I expected more I guess.

It's ready now, and I'm hoping to run it this weekend, hopefully I can get the radio gear installed in time

Once you get it on track... All will be forgotten! Enjoy.

PS: Ensure the 2 speed clutch shoe is mounted in the correct direction. The trailing edge should have more mass in the clockwise direction.

PPS: I cut a 1mm section out of the spring retainer o-ring, worked a treat. (I had fingers cramps trying before that)
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:44 AM   #725
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Building my own prototype... Anyone willing to measure and tell the distance (width) between the lower pin-lines of the car?? Front and rear, center to center.

Is it using 3 or 4mm lower pins??

-X-
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:31 PM   #726
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Congratulation with a superb and strong car, wich is easy to setup and to drive.

The manual does not include the running changes the last little year, and th missing pages you can find earlier in the this thread. Hopefully there will come an updated manual during the winter

Check that you not have used a xx19,8 pin elsewhere ex. in the big rearpulley.

They have changed the number and size of the clutchbell bearings a couple of times. The first version have one 5x10x4 and two 5x10x2,5, the second version two 5x10x4 and the clutchbells supplied with the (new) reversecluch have one 5x10x4 and two 5x10x3 (still use the v2 pinion). This clutchbell also fits vithe traditional clutch.

Instead os lowering the roll-center you can use the top mounting holes on the rear hub and the lower holes on the body mount arm holder - most drivers do it this way.

D.j. apollaro have posted some set-up's earlier in the this thread - one from february (page 36) and a later one from july (page 48) ... these set-up works really good as a base, and is quicker than the standard set-up ... and allmost af easy driven.

In this thread there also are good and valuable information and tips, so i can recommend that you read the thread from start to finish several times and compare with your own experinces on the track.

Best wishes; Jens





Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Hey all just finished building the kit and I had some issues along the way..Nothing major, but just little niggle here and there.

Manual missing pages (corrupt pdf) Pages 5, 42, 45
Missing Screws (M3x8 Flanged for rear body post, M2.5x8 for linkage mounting)
Pins are wrong length (Front wheel mount/Rear wheel mount) 1 x 3x19.8 Pin and 3 x 3x21.8 pins when it should be two of each.

Shock pre load adjuster: Anodizing not quite cleaned up meaning the o-ring wouldn't fit, nothing a scalpel couldn't fix, but still !

Manual seems to be wrong in a few places too ? Clutch step says to use a 5x10x4 bearing and two 5x8x2.5 bearings, doesn't mention the 5x10x4 that's in the bell itself !

Rear roll centres: Manual suggests to start with the centre ones, but with this the body mount hits in the rear belt, using low roll centre inserts means it clears...

These are all fairly minor problems, but still with such an expensive kit, I expected more I guess.

It's ready now, and I'm hoping to run it this weekend, hopefully I can get the radio gear installed in time

Last edited by jensroland; 08-31-2012 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:13 AM   #727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jensroland View Post
Congratulation with a superb and strong car, wich is easy to setup and to drive.

The manual does not include the running changes the last little year, and th missing pages you can find earlier in the this thread. Hopefully there will come an updated manual during the winter

Check that you not have used a xx19,8 pin elsewhere ex. in the big rearpulley.

They have changed the number and size of the clutchbell bearings a couple of times. The first version have one 5x10x4 and two 5x10x2,5, the second version two 5x10x4 and the clutchbells supplied with the (new) reversecluch have one 5x10x4 and two 5x10x3 (still use the v2 pinion). This clutchbell also fits vithe traditional clutch.

Instead os lowering the roll-center you can use the top mounting holes on the rear hub and the lower holes on the body mount arm holder - most drivers do it this way.

D.j. apollaro have posted some set-up's earlier in the this thread - one from february (page 36) and a later one from july (page 48) ... these set-up works really good as a base, and is quicker than the standard set-up ... and allmost af easy driven.

In this thread there also are good and valuable information and tips, so i can recommend that you read the thread from start to finish several times and compare with your own experinces on the track.

Best wishes; Jens
I didn't race it this weekend as I felt I would have rushed to finish it and maybe not have such a good day with it

I'm going to go back over everything, thanks for the tip on the rear pulley, that may explain it, although I thought I'd checked them when I built it.

Next meeting is in 3 weeks time, so I should have everything ready by then hopefully.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:27 AM   #728
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Hoping to get a little help, I'm putting together a new c801 and have come across a couple of issues. haven't driven the car yet so not sure if any of this will sort itself out..

Firstly, the rear belt doesn't seem to want to centralize itself, when you spin the wheels a bit it always seems to want to slip a few mm off of the side of the rear pulley.. Does this mean something is not lined up properly? Or is this nothing to worry about?

Also, when I install the front wheels using the quick change system, the levers don't seem to hold the wheel tight against the pin, even after pushing the lever the wheels can slide approx 2mm up and down the axle. This happens on both sides and with multiple different brands of tires/wheels. Anyone experienced this issue before?

Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:31 AM   #729
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Originally Posted by asc View Post
Firstly, the rear belt doesn't seem to want to centralize itself, when you spin the wheels a bit it always seems to want to slip a few mm off of the side of the rear pulley.. Does this mean something is not lined up properly? Or is this nothing to worry about?

Thanks.
Make sure the centering flanges of the pulleys are on opposite sides of the car. From memory on my car, the rear pulley flange is on the drivers side and the front pulley flange is on the passenger side. Very easy mistake to make,,,,,done it many times on many cars.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:00 AM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Hey all just finished building the kit and I had some issues along the way..Nothing major, but just little niggle here and there.

Manual missing pages (corrupt pdf) Pages 5, 42, 45
Missing Screws (M3x8 Flanged for rear body post, M2.5x8 for linkage mounting)
Pins are wrong length (Front wheel mount/Rear wheel mount) 1 x 3x19.8 Pin and 3 x 3x21.8 pins when it should be two of each.

Shock pre load adjuster: Anodizing not quite cleaned up meaning the o-ring wouldn't fit, nothing a scalpel couldn't fix, but still !

Manual seems to be wrong in a few places too ? Clutch step says to use a 5x10x4 bearing and two 5x8x2.5 bearings, doesn't mention the 5x10x4 that's in the bell itself !

Rear roll centres: Manual suggests to start with the centre ones, but with this the body mount hits in the rear belt, using low roll centre inserts means it clears...

These are all fairly minor problems, but still with such an expensive kit, I expected more I guess.

It's ready now, and I'm hoping to run it this weekend, hopefully I can get the radio gear installed in time
We apologize for the problems regarding the instruction manual.
the continuos developing of capricorn models doesn't allow us to be as well fast on instruction manual updating.
We usually make 2/3 update to our manuals but they are not always enought.
To be noticed that capricorn doesn't change the model version but update their products with all the best is actually available in our company.
It mean that we always give the latest versions available and we give the possibility to all our clients to buy all our upgrades before the kit is put on sale

Regarding some possible read error on some pen drive that we been reported, our manual is always available in the latest version on our website in download section
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:45 PM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapricornRC View Post
We apologize for the problems regarding the instruction manual.
the continuos developing of capricorn models doesn't allow us to be as well fast on instruction manual updating.
We usually make 2/3 update to our manuals but they are not always enought.
To be noticed that capricorn doesn't change the model version but update their products with all the best is actually available in our company.
It mean that we always give the latest versions available and we give the possibility to all our clients to buy all our upgrades before the kit is put on sale

Regarding some possible read error on some pen drive that we been reported, our manual is always available in the latest version on our website in download section
Hello
The problem with reading page 5, 42 & 45 of the instruction manual (usb or downloaded) seems not to be a problem of user's .pdf reader, but a problem of the cad-server converting the canon or hp-plotter files in .pdf files.

It is effective not always necessary to update the manual for minor changes, but a dowloadable correction and update .txt file or exploded view with the correct refences would help us much. For example the references for the clutch bell and pinions. It is not possible to see in the instruction manuel that the parts incuded in the kit are the v2 parts.

But, like blis said, "Once you get it on track... All will be forgotten! Enjoy."

Thanks

Ps: Do you intend to update the fuel-tank, for easier mounting of the linkage and carburator.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:53 PM   #732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asc View Post
Hoping to get a little help, I'm putting together a new c801 and have come across a couple of issues. haven't driven the car yet so not sure if any of this will sort itself out..

Firstly, the rear belt doesn't seem to want to centralize itself, when you spin the wheels a bit it always seems to want to slip a few mm off of the side of the rear pulley.. Does this mean something is not lined up properly? Or is this nothing to worry about?

Also, when I install the front wheels using the quick change system, the levers don't seem to hold the wheel tight against the pin, even after pushing the lever the wheels can slide approx 2mm up and down the axle. This happens on both sides and with multiple different brands of tires/wheels. Anyone experienced this issue before?

Thanks.

I had the same problem with the front quick changes. I solved it by using an O-ring between the wheels and the offset spacer. When i do not need to change tires (e.g. qualifs) i use the wheel nuts cap-2052?.
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Old 09-03-2012, 03:55 PM   #733
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Thanks for the quick responses guys. That's a little disappointing about the quick change, the rear seems to hold the wheels on nice and tight. Surely there must be something else causing this?

I've checked and double checked the rear pulleys they are definitely on the right way.. But still the belt will not stay on straight..
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:19 AM   #734
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Originally Posted by asc View Post
Thanks for the quick responses guys. That's a little disappointing about the quick change, the rear seems to hold the wheels on nice and tight. Surely there must be something else causing this?

I've checked and double checked the rear pulleys they are definitely on the right way.. But still the belt will not stay on straight..

The flange of the Z46 pulley should be on the opposite side of the Z20 pulley.
Verify the allignemant of the rear axle with the cap2002 inserts.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:05 AM   #735
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I had the same problem with the front quick changes. I solved it by using an O-ring between the wheels and the offset spacer. When i do not need to change tires (e.g. qualifs) i use the wheel nuts cap-2052?.
the front hook are perfect for the matrix tires
for all other brand short hook 2064b
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