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Old 06-30-2011, 03:30 PM   #136
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Count the teeth. Make sure they really are the 18 and 27 tooth pulleys. If they are the 16 and/or 24, the belt will be too long for them.
Counted the teeth and they are 18 and 27, will see what happens under power. Thanks
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:44 PM   #137
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Hello everyone. I was into the build of my V8 and the bottom of the front belt seems to contact the chassie. Has anyone noticed or had this problem? I have the bearing block at the end of its adjustment towards the rear of the car. Belt still seems to loose. Thanks in advance. Ken
you might remove 1 of the 3 screws that hold the midshaft bearing block. just to verify that you are at the aft limit of adjustment. (a burr or something might be limiting the aft movement)

i think i can get the belt tighter than necessary without trouble, i will look when i get home.

as far pulley sizes, the new '09 pulleys have little dirt ports on the sides to let gunk out. the older ones have solid sidewalls.
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:16 AM   #138
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Hello "AVS", I tried removing the screws which mount the bearing block and noticed that you can position it more to the rear to put more tension on the belt,but then the holes for the mounting screws don'nt line up with the holes in the chassie. This is not a big problem because now I can get good tension which raises the belt off the chassie, I just have to make a modification. This may help others as well. If you come up with more info please share. Thanks
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #139
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One thing to keep in mind, with the larger pulleys you don't need the belt tight, though it probably should be tight enough to keep it off the chassis. Also, the bottom is the tensioned side under power so even if it does touch, it should be fine.
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Old 07-01-2011, 07:47 PM   #140
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One thing to keep in mind, with the larger pulleys you don't need the belt tight, though it probably should be tight enough to keep it off the chassis. Also, the bottom is the tensioned side under power so even if it does touch, it should be fine.
You are right! At the Worlds, Patrick and many other team Shepherd drivers had their belts so loose you would swear they would skip a cog. But they had no problems.
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:15 AM   #141
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One thing to keep in mind, with the larger pulleys you don't need the belt tight, though it probably should be tight enough to keep it off the chassis. Also, the bottom is the tensioned side under power so even if it does touch, it should be fine.
Thanks for the info. I had received a response from another Shepherd driver who said the same thing. I do feel a little better being able to tighen the belt a little more, but I will leave a little play for under power conditions. Thanks guys!
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:51 AM   #142
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Hi Guys has anybody tested the p909 and the new shepherd gt c5 body back to back and seen an differences?
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:29 AM   #143
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I've tried the Blitz R11 and I will be trying the p909 this weekend I will keep you posted. Also with the R11, I had to remove the rear wing height screws to be able to run that body because the body mounts on the rear are not high enough,yet it seems to not effect performance.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:46 AM   #144
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hi there, i just have a few problems with handling that i need some advice on. ill put up my set up at the moment

Front: Toe: 1 out Rear: 3 in
Camber: 1 degree 3 degrees
Springs: white white
downstops: 1 8
shock postion: middle lowest

the problem i am having is when exiting a conor and putting on the power the back end steps out and sometimes couses it to spin out. it normaly doesnt happen on big long bends, but happens on on tighter slower turns. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:51 AM   #145
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I had this problem when I first started running the car, it just ended up being the tyres and shell I ran, I started on contact rc and blitz r11 body, borrowed a set of shepherd tyres and a 909 body and the car was planted
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:24 PM   #146
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the problem i am having is when exiting a conor and putting on the power the back end steps out and sometimes couses it to spin out. it normaly doesnt happen on big long bends, but happens on on tighter slower turns. Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

What split are you running front to rear on your tires?
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:30 PM   #147
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the problem i am having is when exiting a conor and putting on the power the back end steps out and sometimes couses it to spin out. it normaly doesnt happen on big long bends, but happens on on tighter slower turns. Thanks in advance.
What split are you running front to rear on your tires?[/QUOTE]

Also provide ride hight and rollcenter positions, hight of the rear body and how far is the body placed in front of the bumper.
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Old 08-14-2011, 03:05 PM   #148
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using the p909, my tyres are ATS 35 shore all around, in the rear im using lowest roll centre and in front middle, using a measurment of 20mm from front bumper. ride height 8mm at back 7mm at front, hope this helps, if you need anymore info, please ask
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:41 PM   #149
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using the p909, my tyres are ATS 35 shore all around, in the rear im using lowest roll centre and in front middle, using a measurment of 20mm from front bumper. ride height 8mm at back 7mm at front, hope this helps, if you need anymore info, please ask
Sorry for my late reply, have been a bit bussy. It seems to me that your rear end is too much locked and jumps free at the end of a corner. You could do several things:
  • Try to set more chassis roll, put the front upper arms down and add 1mm sims up the top of the rear uprights.
  • Put your body to 23 - 25mm in front of your bumper, it reduces rear grip
  • Set the lower rear arms to mid. This is the general position for medium to high grip tracks.

Further one general remark, about 95% of all Velox drivers drive 32FR/35RR shore. If you deviate from that, it could result in a different tire wear / changing the tire split. E.g. more front wheel drive, e.g. spin out.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:24 AM   #150
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Has anyone tried the rear body extensions? Also where are you guys mounting your transponders on the V8'11. Thanks
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