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Old 07-22-2004, 09:40 PM   #31
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Default #410 rb

Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
fudge

i specifacally asked for a 3 port turbo, what am I suppose to do now? is it cheaper to exchange it and get a turbo version or how can i convert it to a turbo?
From what I hear, the 410 has a standard plug with higher timing built into the crank. The turbo versions were built for EFRA rules where the timing on the crank is limited. Install a turbo head button, and the 410 will really fly!
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:51 PM   #32
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Yesterday, I idled for 2 tanks with the stock setting. Then ran 3 tanks with the main needle turned out 1 turn with 20-30 minute rest in-between.

Today, I tried to run the same setup and it would NOT run without turning-up the idle. Even with the idle speed cranked-up it continued to stall, like 15 times...... Then I nearly launched the whole car into the trash!!!!

To add to my frustration, my OFNA starter box blew a motor trying to restart the V12. Now I need help!
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:37 PM   #33
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calm down. these engines are really sensitive to weather. Whenever the temperature changes it's good to change the plug and tune it different so it will run better.

Today i came in to the hobby shop and the guy said break in the motor then change the plug to medium. the current plug is hot, it's only good for breaking in the motor, after you're done you need to go to medium.

The reason your starter box broke is these motors have really high compression, and it takes lots of power to start them, if you are having a hard time starting it then use a hair drier on the motor and it will make it more loose inside and it will start up.

It's always good to wait and not rush things.
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:45 PM   #34
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Default Re: #410 rb

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
From what I hear, the 410 has a standard plug with higher timing built into the crank. The turbo versions were built for EFRA rules where the timing on the crank is limited. Install a turbo head button, and the 410 will really fly!
lol, that's what i said a couple of hours earlier. The guy at the hobby shop told me to keep it stock for now, because my whole drivetrain is modified to squeeze every ounce out of the motor. I changed all the metal pieces to lightweight aluminum so there would be less friction and I changed the gearing in the transmission
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:16 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by a68cougar
Yesterday, I idled for 2 tanks with the stock setting. Then ran 3 tanks with the main needle turned out 1 turn with 20-30 minute rest in-between.

Today, I tried to run the same setup and it would NOT run without turning-up the idle. Even with the idle speed cranked-up it continued to stall, like 15 times...... Then I nearly launched the whole car into the trash!!!!

To add to my frustration, my OFNA starter box blew a motor trying to restart the V12. Now I need help!

Hey Cougar........

here are a little different insructions of RB's web site...

http://www.rbproducts.com/indexEn.ph...in%20Procedure

The big diff is that in these,he says to open the main screw only a half a turn.....

you're engine,with the temp change,was really rich....(Mine did the same thing....in fact,it just about ran after a half turn).....

close the needle a half turn....you might want to raise the idle SPEED a little also.......(DON"T touch the other screws)....go to a wide open parking lot,and get the car running WOT(wide open throttle)...it will 4 stroke at top speed(as it should)....just keep running it like the instructions say....let it cool between tanks,with the piston at the bottom...in six tanks,it will be OK.....

I followed the instuctions to a "T"....the engine hauls....and runs as well as my OS....

Again.,just use the main needle.......(and the idle speed....DONT start turning the idle mixture and middle screws..)...
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Old 07-23-2004, 01:33 PM   #36
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how will i know if it's a four stroke noise??? because i read that in the instructions.
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:46 PM   #37
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you'll know...it sounds like its gurgling......what it's realy doing is firing on every 4th cycle(like a 4 stroke engine) instead of every 2nd stroke(hence the name 2 stroke)....the reason it does this is because it's really rich.......richen it even more.and it won't run...my motor,after 7 hard laps was running around 170 degrees,if that helps....
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:36 PM   #38
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Thanks Fast and 888!!! I went to the RB site and looked at the "base" setting for the carb. It turns out that the screw near the slide was out 5 turns and should have been 2.5. Additionally, I turned the main screw only 1/2 turn more rich instead of 1 turn and it ran and started great! One note though, the temp and humidity were 90+ yesterday and today they were both around 70. So now I am not sure if it was the weather change or the carb setting that did the trick.

But you know what, for now I am just glad it starts and runs. Thanks for the help!!!!

After the break-in what glow plug number should I try???
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Old 07-24-2004, 04:20 AM   #39
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if yours is a non turbo then use a 1055-6 glow plug
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Old 07-24-2004, 09:24 PM   #40
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Today I ran the RB in my NTC3 at a local club race. The track was very small and tight, but the V12 Turbo proved worthy!! I was TQ and won the A Main (well, there was only one Nitro Main of 6 drivers but hey, it still counts). It was my first Nitro Race ever, and boy what a rush!!

Next week, I get to lean it out on a BIG track and maybe get the temp up to 230°F......

compaq888 -- Thanks for the plug advice, after today I think I will start with the #6 and tune from there.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:52 AM   #41
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a68cougar, yours is a turbo, you can't use the 1055-6, you have to use a turbo plug. Only start using a new plug after you break in the motor completly.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:58 AM   #42
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try running that v12 on Sidewinder World Championship 30% fuel.....

you won't believe how well that engine runs.......

I am WAY off the OS bandwagon..(never thought I'd say that

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Old 07-25-2004, 12:07 PM   #43
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I finally got to breaking in the motor yesterday. It wouldn't start at first because the RB collet didn't fit the flywheel, so Data helped me out because he has many of them, he is a lifesaver. We ran the motor really rich, i had a hard time getting the car to the track without it flaming out. Then after like 10 tanks we leaned it out a little, but it's still running really rich. It's running at 160F so we got lots of leaning to do. At 160F it runs really good, it keeps up to the OS 5 port turbo, imagine when we have this motor running at 200F+

My track experience with this car is overwhelming. On the first day i drove it, really good, better than any HPI car or traxxas car I drove on the track. At the end of the straight i was really cautious, because i didn't want to crash, but i kept going faster and faster, right now I can control the car 70% of the time as long it's in 1st gear, as soon as it goes into second gear it's way too fast for me and I smash into something.

So far I bent 1 pipe, to the point where i can't run the car and I had to throw it away. I bought the same exact pipe from a guy at the track, used, it was $15 (RD logics). So far I bent 2 manifolds, and I think that was my last one.

This engine's sweet spot is definetly in second gear, because it just takes off like crazy as soon as it hits second. Maybe in the fall i'll have enough experience to drive it 2nd gear full throtale.
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Old 07-25-2004, 12:20 PM   #44
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my mistake, I bent all 3 manifolds, i'm screwed. Anyway to bend them back???
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Old 07-25-2004, 12:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
try running that v12 on Sidewinder World Championship 30% fuel.....

you won't believe how well that engine runs.......

I am WAY off the OS bandwagon..(never thought I'd say that

30% is a bit much for a .12 engine ,and only will end up being wasted out the pipe. Thats too much nitro for that size engine , if anything your more than likely to wear the engine out faster. I think 20% nitro is all you really need.
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