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Old 07-21-2004, 11:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
change the button
Which is about $30
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Old 07-22-2004, 01:09 AM   #17
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Since you asked the question, I will assume that you don't know a lot about the engine. If you take off the head (the orange thing held on by 4 screws/bolt, the aluminum part that is underneath it is the button. This is the part that the glow plug threads into. You can order a turbo button for the V12 which as stated earlier will cost about 30 bucks. Then it will be a turbo and you will have to use turbo plugs.
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:22 AM   #18
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why not keep the engine?....

I'm running the stock v12 non turbo also...the motor is plenty fast,and doesn't have the tuning hassles the turbo plugs sometimes have......

BTW,the std v12 has as much power as the old X12 turbos.....
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Old 07-22-2004, 07:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
why not keep the engine?....

I'm running the stock v12 non turbo also...the motor is plenty fast,and doesn't have the tuning hassles the turbo plugs sometimes have......

BTW,the std v12 has as much power as the old X12 turbos.....
good point!
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
why not keep the engine?....

I'm running the stock v12 non turbo also...the motor is plenty fast,and doesn't have the tuning hassles the turbo plugs sometimes have......

BTW,the std v12 has as much power as the old X12 turbos.....
I too run the 410 eng. So far about 30+ mins of run time, very happy with it.
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:28 AM   #21
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All I know is that I am still just breaking in my V12 and it is so fast that I can barely follow RB's procedure. I am running really rich (smoke and spitting fuel) and just a touch of the throttle sends my NTC3 flying done the road.

I can't wait to get to 80% tonight, maybe even hit 1/2 throttle!
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
change the button
actually i called the hobby shop and they said the turbo version has a different piston and sleeve and a different turbo button. I know for a fact the turbo version has a different turbo button but what about the piston and sleeve??

Also I can't exchange it because i've put it on my car, you wouldn't believe it but it took me about 3 hours, because i'm only familiar with hpi and traxxas engines with regular cranks.
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Old 07-22-2004, 03:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
actually i called the hobby shop and they said the turbo version has a different piston and sleeve and a different turbo button. I know for a fact the turbo version has a different turbo button but what about the piston and sleeve??

Also I can't exchange it because i've put it on my car, you wouldn't believe it but it took me about 3 hours, because i'm only familiar with hpi and traxxas engines with regular cranks.
Find a more knowledgable shop, only the button differs.
Standard head shim is .3mm, suitable for up to 20% nitro. Higher nitro will require extra shims and colder plugs to prevent detonation.
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Old 07-22-2004, 04:38 PM   #24
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wow, thanks, I'll be sure to change it when I'm replacing the piston and sleeve. Right now i'm just going to drive it like that.
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Old 07-22-2004, 04:43 PM   #25
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It will work just fine like it is, use a Nova or RB 5 or 6 plug and it's all good.
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:05 PM   #26
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what are the symptons of detonation? I am running 30% Mugen fuel with the stock .3mm shim. I could have detonation and not know it.
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl
It will work just fine like it is, use a Nova or RB 5 or 6 plug and it's all good.
yeah i saw that the current plug is for colder temperatures, i'd have to get a plug before i start it because it will run like crap.
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by wild gopher
what are the symptons of detonation? I am running 30% Mugen fuel with the stock .3mm shim. I could have detonation and not know it.
the less shims there are the more compression, and you are pushing the engine's limits.
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Old 07-22-2004, 08:49 PM   #29
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Default V12 Problem.....

I ran the motor yesterday without many problems starting and keeping it going through during break-in. However today (90°F and 80% humidity) I could not keep the engine running. As soon as I let off the throttle the engine would stall...... Also, it would NOT start when hot.

I am about ready to scrap the whole nitro thing and return to mod touring, what do I try now???
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Old 07-22-2004, 08:55 PM   #30
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did you follow his insructions about idling the first tank?.....and did you turn the high speed needle out one turn as per the instuctions?.....if not,tell us what you did do....
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