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Old 12-30-2010, 05:14 AM   #61
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Any chance on getting some photos of how the radio plate mounts to chassis in the rear and the hardware used on front to allow it to flex?

It is very curious design.

Great photos on the blog!!
Thanks.

The rear part of the radio plate mounts to the chassis as per all conventional designs, with two countersunk screws, it is a solid construction, no flex at all.

The front end slides only left/right not back/forth (maybe just a bit) and it is guided with teflon shims. I thought photos 3 & 4 on my last post would be enough to understand the design. Click on them to see in high resolution.

Maybe some photos in semi-assembled form would help more. I will try and take some in the next few days.
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:23 AM   #62
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Hi stefan,

I use my liteweight stainless steel axles with Mugen bones, joint that connects bones to axle , and Mugen front 1 way drivers because the Mugen ball end is about .007 bigger that the Moto ones. My axles are listed in the Mugen sub category on my website.

Hope this helps.
Brad
Hey Brad,

thanks, found it.
Once you got your other parts available, I will contact you about an order for 4 people over here.
Take care
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:25 AM   #63
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Options used are:

1. Receiver box from Reckward Tuning. It's made for Mugen cars and I have modified it to fit my car and then scrubed of the grey color and polished.
2. Titanium ball ends in all wheel hubs
3. Titanium screws
4. 'Blade' rear arnti roll bar - this will be changed to stock as I don't see anyone anywhere using the blade system anymore.
5. Titanium middle shaft
6. Aluminum front body posts
7. Some ceramic bearings in key areas
8. Silver color aluminum top shock caps (kit has orange ones although I ordered the "grey chassis" edition Part#00115)
I strongly recomend not to change to the silver ones as the new orange ones have an improved design and the blader inside sits better and the shock operates smoother.


The rest is box stock, so what you see in the photos is more or less what you get.
The options I installed really don't make much of a difference in performance.
Hi John,

are the shock bodies made of plastic or aluminium?

Thx
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:20 AM   #64
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shock bodies are made of aluminum and the finish is good.
the piston inside does not scrab on the side walls and movement is super smooth.
In some aluminum shock bodies one may get a grinding feel when the piston moves up and down touching in the inside tube. Not in these.

Speaking of plastic shock bodies, I was looking to get an extra set of shocks so I could test quick shock options and I was looking at the aluminum shocks available from Xray for the NT1. Sizes are the same so they would fit. The funny thing is that when I looked on Wolrd Champion's Ralph Burch's NT1 I was surprised to see that he used the plastic shocks.

I was told there is a theory behind the choise of plastic shocks, apart from the obvious weight saving a plastic shock does not expand or shrink with temperature changes and also it does not 'wear' the oil as much as aluminum bodies do.
The only issue is that it's hard to make perfect plastic shock bodies as it's harder to have tight tolerances with plastic mold where as with aluminum machined tubes its easier to make them perfect.
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:15 PM   #65
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Hey Brad,

thanks, found it.
Once you got your other parts available, I will contact you about an order for 4 people over here.
Take care
I hope to have a bunch of stuff at the end of this month.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:37 AM   #66
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P81 RS Standard set-up sheet is available on motonica.com
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:47 AM   #67
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Faan, your kit should ship Saturday.....finally
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:18 AM   #68
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Faan, your kit should ship Saturday.....finally
Mine too
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Old 01-07-2011, 02:45 AM   #69
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Faan, your kit should ship Saturday.....finally


Whoohaaaa ..... can't wait !!!! Just remeber to send me the tracking no - thanks Garen !!!
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:44 PM   #70
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I 've updated my blog with the race ready set up of my car.
I installed the stock 'RS' shock top caps which are much better than the old silver ones. I also used HB 'flat type' HB73523 bladder inside as the stock ones are of poor quality and do damage to an otherwise good damper.

click on the photo for more...

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Old 01-14-2011, 05:56 AM   #71
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is it a conversion kit for 81 to RS?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:55 AM   #72
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As of now, no. I had asked Motonica if they would make one, and they said they might. I'll ask again.
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:15 PM   #73
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thanks so much, i got a 81 but really want to upgrade it to RS.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:46 AM   #74
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Hey guys,

can you give me a little info on the Motonica clutch.
Does it work as is, or does it need modifications?

I heard that some team drivers are running clutches from other brands.

Thx
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:11 AM   #75
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Hey guys,

can you give me a little info on the Motonica clutch.
Does it work as is, or does it need modifications?

I heard that some team drivers are running clutches from other brands.

Thx
Hey Stephan, yeah the clutches have some issues. I use the gio racing clutch and it's great but I think the guy no longer makes them. If I were to run the moto clutch, I would use the yellow weights mounted on the pin and the yellow cluch shoe. As for the spring, I use the Orion or the MSR and that seems to keep the problems away. I think the issue with the moto clutch is the material the weights are made of get hot and begin to stick and lockup. I have tested my theory with stock clutch and gio racing weights and had slot better performance. Just my two cents.
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